hotiron, this looks very promising. Looking forward to your impressions.
Is it done yet?
Let me phrase it this way: I am yet to come across a type of plastic that would benefit the sound in some way. My theory is that the resonant properties of plastics are inherently bad and this is also is the reason why plastics have never been widely adopted for use in musical instruments.
Billlo 44,
You are right but answering questions is ok too.
Peter, who suggested the ERO has since changed to V-CAP, experimenting and sharing data is also ok.
I did state that one of the single most important mods to make, and that is amply documented here and in Peter's threads, is to have a very good shunt supply for the 5V.
This mod should be included as standard configuration, so huge is the change for the better.
Reason why i posted a pic of it.
I fully agree.
That sounds very much like the findings other people reported.
I want to try the bobken reg, also I want to add my name for one of Uncle Leons special caps... I'm not an 'unbeliever', just felt the need to rememeber it is all subjective.
I was trying to put together bobken regs last year and couldn't find the 15R caddock MP330 among other components.
I wonder if we could have boards and a GB on these regulators?
I think there would be much demand.
I have the BOM I was working on... Here;-
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AttLWNtAmAhedHRFRTVTV1IzQ28wVnY4cnh3ZXMzNHc
It's currently open to editing, please post if you add an edit. I'll keep an archive. Or edit and post a new link as you wish. Or post a part choice/source and I'll add it to the BOM.
This is OK isn't it? I'm not too hot on forum protocol sorry?
Cheers
Bill
Okay uncle. I was hesitant to go with a copper plate in a metal (aluminum) box only because of possible ground or eddy current issues.
Not quite http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eddy_current
Metals indeed may bring problems of electrical nature, especially the ferrous ones - but as case materials they are usually good, especially cymbal alloys.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eddy_currentMetals indeed may bring problems of electrical nature, especially the ferrous ones - but as case materials they are usually good, especially cymbal alloys.
So what if it was done this way? -
Use a metal chassis (let's say aluminum as it is the most likely choice for those who might go this route). Everything mounted on the copper plate. Suspend the plate from the chassis. Anything interfaced to the chassis is done so it is insulated from the chassis. Might be tricky, but should be possible.
Use a metal chassis (let's say aluminum as it is the most likely choice for those who might go this route). Everything mounted on the copper plate. Suspend the plate from the chassis. Anything interfaced to the chassis is done so it is insulated from the chassis. Might be tricky, but should be possible.
Any advice I could give would be mere speculation on my part, as there are great many factors at play here. I was only warning about plastics because they sound rubbish pretty consistently.
If you can afford to, try a few different mounting strategies/materials and choose the one that sounds best to you. If not, what you described seems like a pretty good approach.
If you can afford to, try a few different mounting strategies/materials and choose the one that sounds best to you. If not, what you described seems like a pretty good approach.
Hi Fran,
Think I'll give your RF attenuators recommendation a try.. I just like to know currently which combination works best for you... 10dB + 15dB ? Another question, instead of putting the 2 RF attenuators in series, have you tried putting the 2 attenuators at either ends of the DAC and Shigaclone.. and any difference ? .. my rack's quite close to the back wall.. might be a tight squeeze if I put the 2 attenuators back to back.
Think I'll give your RF attenuators recommendation a try.. I just like to know currently which combination works best for you... 10dB + 15dB ? Another question, instead of putting the 2 RF attenuators in series, have you tried putting the 2 attenuators at either ends of the DAC and Shigaclone.. and any difference ? .. my rack's quite close to the back wall.. might be a tight squeeze if I put the 2 attenuators back to back.
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Right now I'm using a 20dB at one end of the cable and a 15dB at the other end. I did try them directly in series but I couldn't tell any difference. I'm using a buffalo dac (one of the earlier ones) and it stays locked no problem at that level. I think if I were ordering them up I would order a few - maybe get a 2 x 15db, 10 and a 6 as well. That would give you many combinations. That 25+15 was the highest amount I could go without causing dropout on the spdif line, so if your dac needs a slightly higher signal to lock on, then it might not work with that much attenuation.
Fran
Hi Fran,
Thanks a lot for the information... I'm using the Buffalo 2 with Diyhif Supply UTS... so should be quite similar to your set-up. I'll arrange to buy some of these attenuator as per your recommendations to try out...
Thanks a lot for the information... I'm using the Buffalo 2 with Diyhif Supply UTS... so should be quite similar to your set-up. I'll arrange to buy some of these attenuator as per your recommendations to try out...
I wonder just how much better the attenuators are from the resistors you've tried. I have recently made my own resistors, which literally transformed my Shiga sound when installed at the output. Would be interested in a little comparison, Fran?
Hi,
This is the design proposal for our shiga pcb.
As you can see in the schematic provided, this board will accomodate different types of components. For an easy identification the alternative/additional components (ex: LTs regs & additional components, TentLabs oscillator, etc) are marked with an white rectangle.
Bottom side
Top side
Any sugestion ?!
jazz35
This is the design proposal for our shiga pcb.
As you can see in the schematic provided, this board will accomodate different types of components. For an easy identification the alternative/additional components (ex: LTs regs & additional components, TentLabs oscillator, etc) are marked with an white rectangle.
Bottom side
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Top side
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Any sugestion ?!
jazz35
Thank you !
We are going to move further with power supply board and display.
For display we´ll use a three digit one. Two digits for cd track and one for other signs. Ex: for play - P; for pause || etc.
If you have any suggestions/observations/critics please express them now.
Regards,
Tibi
XO2 is 16934400Hz
In general any CD transport will use an oscillator with multiple of 44100Hz (CD sampling rate).
In our case 384 x 44100 = 16.934400MHz
Regards,
Tibi