Heres how that second one turned out. Looks better really in the flesh. Feet/springs of some kind yet to be added.
Fran
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Fran
Hy Fran, looks great!
What kind of springs did you use? You know I got the drive tight on the chassis of the player. Before, I felt some vibrations, after nothing. It feels like a solid block. 20kg of iron and leadbitumen. And to me it felt like it could not be bettered. Special the pinpoint and the placing of the individual instruments in the space.
But as a diyer it never stops, the tweaking! Did you use also the rubber washers? Thanks for your answer, Teake
What kind of springs did you use? You know I got the drive tight on the chassis of the player. Before, I felt some vibrations, after nothing. It feels like a solid block. 20kg of iron and leadbitumen. And to me it felt like it could not be bettered. Special the pinpoint and the placing of the individual instruments in the space.
But as a diyer it never stops, the tweaking! Did you use also the rubber washers? Thanks for your answer, Teake
The springs were just a quick experiment - more work has yet to follow. But FWIW, the springs were about 1" diameter, and about 2-3" tall uncompressed. They compressed by about half when 4 went under the baseplate. The whole thing was pretty "rocky" - like a LP12. But this was just really quick just sat the plate on the 4 springs I had.
I have yet to try things like damping the springs (my own shiga has damped springs) and better placemtent. Also want to try some ceraballs as well.
I don't have photos, but really they were just 4 springs and the CDP sat on top of it.
Fran
I have yet to try things like damping the springs (my own shiga has damped springs) and better placemtent. Also want to try some ceraballs as well.
I don't have photos, but really they were just 4 springs and the CDP sat on top of it.
Fran
sparkle said:
Yesterday I tried a 12V battery instead of the transformer and as with the laboratory PSU I couldn't hear any difference. Now I think that maybe the 7808 I used has a dominant "signature" that causes its input source to become rather irrelevant. To test if this hypothesis is correct I will use the lab PSU adjusted to 8 V to feed the mechanism directly soon.
with a little delay, but like I promissed
EMM lab CDSD model
fibre optic photo...
uses
aglient HFBR-1414T tx and HFBR-2416T rx
useful web-loc where you can get very good infos how to implement
fiber optic link...
http://www.avagotech.com/pages/en/optical_transmitters/token_ring/hfbr-1414/
cheers
EMM lab CDSD model
fibre optic photo...
uses
aglient HFBR-1414T tx and HFBR-2416T rx
useful web-loc where you can get very good infos how to implement
fiber optic link...
http://www.avagotech.com/pages/en/optical_transmitters/token_ring/hfbr-1414/
cheers
I made some tests today.
As i said in my previous posts, my shigaclone (stock board and external PS) is built around a stiff setup.
I'm not currently satisfied with the sound of my hi-fi system.
Sure, shiga q/p ratio is stellar, but I know I can listen a better sound with my system. Cause I've changed more than a component recently, I'm not sure how much is shiga fault, maybe none. A friend of mine is going to lend me a Audio Analogue Puccini CD player (a very musical player) next days, so I'll be able to undestand something more.
The major problem right now is hissing high frequencies and some lack of low frequencies. For the second I've improved a lot swapping spikes under the box with sorbothane pads. A small change, but a great change in sound.
Find the right combination between soft and hard it's not an easy task for me, however I keep on testing.
As i said in my previous posts, my shigaclone (stock board and external PS) is built around a stiff setup.
I'm not currently satisfied with the sound of my hi-fi system.
Sure, shiga q/p ratio is stellar, but I know I can listen a better sound with my system. Cause I've changed more than a component recently, I'm not sure how much is shiga fault, maybe none. A friend of mine is going to lend me a Audio Analogue Puccini CD player (a very musical player) next days, so I'll be able to undestand something more.
The major problem right now is hissing high frequencies and some lack of low frequencies. For the second I've improved a lot swapping spikes under the box with sorbothane pads. A small change, but a great change in sound.
Find the right combination between soft and hard it's not an easy task for me, however I keep on testing.
jitter said:
hmmmm - to bad to hear that....
hopefully that lab psu will give a better insight in the battery/psu problem.....
now i am in doubt if i should try the battery or not...
anyway - i have found 6N14P NOS tube ... i think that i will use digi-lampizator on my shiga
heheheheheh.... but first i have to work on those weights like Erik used on the laser slide.....oh man - so much to do and so little time :d
guys - this project is a real joy to me....
really....
i have to thank everybody that contributed to this thread..... THANKS GUYS!!!!!
sparkle i used the digilampizator circuit exactly as per the schematics that Lukasz has given on his site. I have used it on a pioneer stable platter and cambridge audio transport and worked great first time in both. I used my own choke regulated valve rectified power supply however.
Not had time to use it on the Shigalone, still wonder if the sum of the parts is so much greater than any one component so that even the digilampizator might upset the balance.
I hope to try it out shortly as i now have 5 of those blasted jvc things!
Not had time to use it on the Shigalone, still wonder if the sum of the parts is so much greater than any one component so that even the digilampizator might upset the balance.
I hope to try it out shortly as i now have 5 of those blasted jvc things!
audiojoy said:
i am very interested to hear the report from you related this.....
i have the tube (6N14P) and a NOS one from the 60'......
so i can do it....
but i will have to try it first too... and i also suspect that the balance of the design might be disrupted....
as dzuvela reported - the digital output is fairly good... so lampizator might be overkill for it - not sure....
that is why i am waiting to hear the news from you - or to make it myself before it....
sparkle said:hmmmm - to bad to hear that....
hopefully that lab psu will give a better insight in the battery/psu problem.....
now i am in doubt if i should try the battery or not...
By all means try the battery yourself and don't take my word for it. It may actually work for you.
Last night I tried the lab PSU feeding the mech directly. There was a difference, but in a way I had not expected. Technically the sound seemed slightly better, but musicality had suffered a bit. I went back and forth between stock transformer+7808 and lab PSU only one more time to verify I was not kidding myself, but I was not. I prefer the 7808.
I also have a kit-based PSU lying around somewhere which uses a LM317 as voltage regulator. Maybe I'll give that one a try too...
jitter said:
o.k.....
thanks for the info - it seems that 7808 might be the best for powering the Shiga....
.....
i bought some accessories for my Shiga... the tube is a gift from a very good friend of mine - it is for digi-lampizator that i would like to try on the Shiga...
the weights are 1g each...
Attachments
@sparkle
if you insist on tube buffer for digi out - use A. Wright's SLCF ; one simple variant is shown here : http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1747748&stamp=1234853067
also - adding mosfet cascode to your 12B4 in preamp can be pretty beneficial
if you insist on tube buffer for digi out - use A. Wright's SLCF ; one simple variant is shown here : http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1747748&stamp=1234853067
also - adding mosfet cascode to your 12B4 in preamp can be pretty beneficial
Zen Mod - thnx for the info...i will do first the Digilampizator - simply because i have all the parts and also the power supply as needed in that circuit.... that is why i decided to try it after all....
related 12B4 - well, it is a finished project, allready 2 years (or so) in the box so the only thing what i would like to change is the ccs in the anode of the tube.... that will not require changing the pcb - only the ccs part of the pcb which is separated from the main pcb.....
but, i find your idea very interesting and i think i might use it in a future headphone amplifier.....the only thing will be to have a stock of 12B4A for two projects at my home... as a reserve replacement.......thnx for the idea....
related 12B4 - well, it is a finished project, allready 2 years (or so) in the box so the only thing what i would like to change is the ccs in the anode of the tube.... that will not require changing the pcb - only the ccs part of the pcb which is separated from the main pcb.....
but, i find your idea very interesting and i think i might use it in a future headphone amplifier.....the only thing will be to have a stock of 12B4A for two projects at my home... as a reserve replacement.......thnx for the idea....