Puffin said:
Got one myself....check out this site...really worth while....a lot better than " not bad" actually
http://www.lampizator.eu/LAMPIZATOR/LAMPUCERA/MAX/maxi-lampucera.html
Peters Citizen arrived (thanks) so time to do some serious upgrading....
The clock was installed...the blackgates in place....a wondercap on the famous 10N position.
I also dismounted the (or rather my pro hifi-friend ) print from the motor....and invented a wooden stick for the
now-out-of-position relay switch who tells the laser its position.
I only listened for half an hour (seriously bedtime) but this is a giant leap forward...words as....quietness....no grain....complete different landscape...far more musical enters my mind..
Peter I started to feel your surprising experiences...
The clock was installed...the blackgates in place....a wondercap on the famous 10N position.
I also dismounted the (or rather my pro hifi-friend
) print from the motor....and invented a wooden stick for the now-out-of-position relay switch who tells the laser its position.
I only listened for half an hour (seriously bedtime) but this is a giant leap forward...words as....quietness....no grain....complete different landscape...far more musical enters my mind..
Peter I started to feel your surprising experiences...
Attachments
There are a few '51s on UK eBay, some will post to Europe, eg:http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JVC-RC-EZ51H_...hash=item170238814538&_trksid=p4069.m14.l1318
John
John
The lenght of the stick depends on how far you place the print underneath the laser...obviously it is maximized by the length of the ribbon...and you do not want a longer ribbon... 
The stick is pretty much like a matchstick a little bit thinner...it is placed by a heatshrinktube (NOT HEATED) over the relais..and while checking the laserpath I added a little piece of sticky cloth to the lasercompartiment to make it hit the stick that is activating the relais....
Of course after you finalize things it is better to mount the relais to the board close to the laser....this is just experimenting...
It is definitively worthwhile....
The stick is pretty much like a matchstick a little bit thinner...it is placed by a heatshrinktube (NOT HEATED) over the relais..and while checking the laserpath I added a little piece of sticky cloth to the lasercompartiment to make it hit the stick that is activating the relais....
Of course after you finalize things it is better to mount the relais to the board close to the laser....this is just experimenting...
It is definitively worthwhile....
Just spinning some LPs today and reading through this thread. I finally got to the end and I have a question which I did not find any comments about. My turntable's motor is DC and powered by a large, 12 volt battery. I realize this is perhaps for different reasons than with a CD transport, but why not power a Shigaclone with such a supply? In know it is possible as the original player was portable. Could there be any benefit?
The Metronome Kalista is a very respected cd transport
(ac powered) and the top of there line is now the 50.000 dollar Metronome Kalista Reference...and guess what...they power this rig with batteries...
So the former Jadis Designer is able to get some good results with this very much discussed way of powersupply....
I gues experimenting like Peter is the only way to find out...if you strike gold for your set-up and own way of listening...
(ac powered) and the top of there line is now the 50.000 dollar Metronome Kalista Reference...and guess what...they power this rig with batteries...
So the former Jadis Designer is able to get some good results with this very much discussed way of powersupply....
I gues experimenting like Peter is the only way to find out...if you strike gold for your set-up and own way of listening...