nickthevoice said:anybody has good idea for DIY CD CLAMP ?
because the EZ31 bare CD clamp looks ugly
thanks !
nicK
there have been some good ideas posted here, look through the thread
I have a Shigaclone size problem I have to sort out. I successfully had all the smd's removed and ran the wire from 5a to 5b. I also successfully removed all the R's on the palyermods.pdf. Now, I installed all the BG's and the new crystal and I now have an inoperable shigaclone. It spins up and reads "00" on the display. Hints anyone where I might have went wrong?
Regards,
Dan
Regards,
Dan
This could be due to lack of caps with a new crystal. I mentioned that in this post: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1474508#post1474508
Try to install the old resonator and see if it works properly. If that's the case you might need to add capacitance with a new crystal.
Try to install the old resonator and see if it works properly. If that's the case you might need to add capacitance with a new crystal.
Peter Daniel said:This could be due to lack of caps with a new crystal. I mentioned that in this post: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1474508#post1474508
Try to install the old rezonator and see if it works properly. If that's the case you might need to add capacitance with a new crystal.
Unfortunately the old resonator was destroyed in the removal process.
Regards,
Dan
Peter Daniel said:Another thing, the jumper from 5A to 5B is not really required, I installed it only because I had traces cut through when I was experimenting with additional PS.
yes, but things seem to sound better with it. I'm compared both side by side with 2 separate transports. I used silver with unbleached cotton insulation.
luvdunhill said:yes, but things seem to sound better with it. I'm compared both side by side with 2 separate transports. I used silver with unbleached cotton insulation.
That is actually possible, as you replace dubious quality PCB trace with a good quality wire. In that case, it may be recommended to cut the PCB trace which is in parallel with a wire.
I would like to thx Peter for sharing with us this great transport.
I would like to share my experience with the RCZ31.
I removed and exchanged most of the part as Peter recommended. I initially used small 12-0-12V with 700mA with BGN1000/25V parallel in Super-E configuration with BGN1000/25V after the LM7808, first listening feel that the sound is not better than my CD-Pro2M unit. They certainly have more air but details that I like in the CD-Pro2M. I change the transfomer to 12-0-12V @ 6.3A......Walla....details, bass control, depth is certainly improved. I would recommend using big transformer, do not waste your time in using small one.!!!!
I would like to share my experience with the RCZ31.
I removed and exchanged most of the part as Peter recommended. I initially used small 12-0-12V with 700mA with BGN1000/25V parallel in Super-E configuration with BGN1000/25V after the LM7808, first listening feel that the sound is not better than my CD-Pro2M unit. They certainly have more air but details that I like in the CD-Pro2M. I change the transfomer to 12-0-12V @ 6.3A......Walla....details, bass control, depth is certainly improved. I would recommend using big transformer, do not waste your time in using small one.!!!!
Hi Dan, make sure you haven't shorted one of the outside crystal pads to the unused centre pad. Did you reconnect the laser ribbon?dantwomey said:I have a Shigaclone size problem I have to sort out. I successfully had all the smd's removed and ran the wire from 5a to 5b. I also successfully removed all the R's on the palyermods.pdf. Now, I installed all the BG's and the new crystal and I now have an inoperable shigaclone. It spins up and reads "00" on the display. Hints anyone where I might have went wrong?
Regards,
Dan
Algar_emi said:Still get one EZ31 left. I was at an other store in Montreal this weekend with a friend, and found three EZ31 there. So, after this one, I can still get a few...
I'm looking for an EZ31 unit if you've still got one available. I emailed you via the forum button.
thekop-bkk said:I would like to thx Peter for sharing with us this great transport.
I would like to share my experience with the RCZ31.
, first listening feel that the sound is not better than my CD-Pro2M unit. T
Thanks thekop for comments.
How do you compare CD-Pro2M to RCZ31 after mods?
clamp update
1. i spoke with the machine shop forman today. he won't give me a definite estimate until i confirm the tolerances on the center hole and the cd shaft. he tentatively said $75 each made out of delran for a run of 50. other materials will raise the cost. have any others been able to obtain a estimate? i will start a group buy thread once i get the final price.
2. i can confirm the center hole measurement for acrylic. the reamer i used worked perfectly. i heated the bottom of the clamp to 120 degrees farenheit (49 degrees C) and it slid on to the motor shaft with a reasonable amount of pressure. going from room temp to 49 C increased the hole daimeter by approx 0.03 mm. i am not sure that the same diameter hole would work with other materials. does anyone know the expansion coefficients for acrylic, lexan, and delran? i could test these materials but this takes time - something i am running short of lately. how do those interested in a clamp feel about this fitting method?
3. i made a puller (see pic) to remove the old clamp. works well. unfortunately i think i bent the motor shaft when trying to remove the clamp before i had made the puller. does anyone have a spare drive motor from a dead mechanism they would be willing to part with?
4. the clamp as it stands does impede screw access significantly. i think the diameter of the bottom section of the clamp should be adjusted accordingly. please make alternative suggestions.
that's it for now. this post was a little rushed but i wanted to update everyone asap.
1. i spoke with the machine shop forman today. he won't give me a definite estimate until i confirm the tolerances on the center hole and the cd shaft. he tentatively said $75 each made out of delran for a run of 50. other materials will raise the cost. have any others been able to obtain a estimate? i will start a group buy thread once i get the final price.
2. i can confirm the center hole measurement for acrylic. the reamer i used worked perfectly. i heated the bottom of the clamp to 120 degrees farenheit (49 degrees C) and it slid on to the motor shaft with a reasonable amount of pressure. going from room temp to 49 C increased the hole daimeter by approx 0.03 mm. i am not sure that the same diameter hole would work with other materials. does anyone know the expansion coefficients for acrylic, lexan, and delran? i could test these materials but this takes time - something i am running short of lately. how do those interested in a clamp feel about this fitting method?
3. i made a puller (see pic) to remove the old clamp. works well. unfortunately i think i bent the motor shaft when trying to remove the clamp before i had made the puller. does anyone have a spare drive motor from a dead mechanism they would be willing to part with?
4. the clamp as it stands does impede screw access significantly. i think the diameter of the bottom section of the clamp should be adjusted accordingly. please make alternative suggestions.
that's it for now. this post was a little rushed but i wanted to update everyone asap.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
- Home
- Source & Line
- Digital Source
- Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story