hey guys, can you explain how to hook up the LCD backlight? I see the 10k limiting resistor, but according to the PDF, it's taken from the unregulated side of the 7808... is this correct? I'll be using a 2x10 VAC transformer, so will I need a different resistor value?
Also, any recommendations on a fuse value?
Also, any recommendations on a fuse value?
Tham said:
I agree it's a bit ambiguous. The two near the crystal are clear enough. One is under the heatsink near where the connection is at 5B. The last one, I'm not sure myself, but I removed the one under the heatsink in the lower right corner (when looking at the picture in the PDF). As I asked a few messages back, I'm not sure what the green square is a bit higher on the diagram.
Tham said:
The caps are so small that I didn't see any numbers, just remove the ones that are in parallel with electrolytics you are replacing.
There's no harm in leaving them as they are, I simply removed them as they don't go well with BG N I used. If you use different electrolytics, they may just be fine.
luvdunhill said:
I'm not particular about fuses, I think I used 2A.
The LCD limiting resistor is indeed connected before regulator for more separation. 10K provides pretty dim backlight, as I wanted more "professional" look. You should be OK with that value for 10V AC transformer too and later adjust it to your preference by installing a a trimpot in series with 2k resistor.
As my wife accuses me of suffering from "Anoraksia Nervosa", I thought I would not disappoint her and decided to check the level of interest in the Shigaclone.
I have calculated that there are approximately 90 posters on here, which considering that this forum is world-wide, is a very small figure, an exclusive club I suppose you could say?
It surprises me that given sales of CD players (and transports) worldwide that so few are interested in "getting their hands dirty" and getting a bargain to boot.
According to google the world population is :-
6,665,026.176
I have calculated that there are approximately 90 posters on here, which considering that this forum is world-wide, is a very small figure, an exclusive club I suppose you could say?
It surprises me that given sales of CD players (and transports) worldwide that so few are interested in "getting their hands dirty" and getting a bargain to boot.
According to google the world population is :-
6,665,026.176
As you can see, I found time to work on the finish:
I changed the output by removing the output connector.
After the voltage divider resistors I directly attached a 75R coaxial cable, 1.5m long.
Franz
BTW: I am still using the double sided tapes to stick the CD to the transport. Changed CD's many times and had not to attach new pieces of tape up to now. Works good
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I changed the output by removing the output connector.
After the voltage divider resistors I directly attached a 75R coaxial cable, 1.5m long.
Franz
BTW: I am still using the double sided tapes to stick the CD to the transport. Changed CD's many times and had not to attach new pieces of tape up to now. Works good
Here a foto from my first test configuration:
The red flashes in the foreground are there, as I used the breadboard before for tube preamplifiers.
Regards
Franz
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The red flashes in the foreground are there, as I used the breadboard before for tube preamplifiers.
Regards
Franz
I just finished the backside of the player
Franz
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Franz
Peter Daniel said:
I found my problem with the strange short, it wasn't my B&K meter thankfully. It was a solder bridge when I installed the through hole part that that SMD cap was bypassing. It flowed into what looks like a black box SMD part (diode maybe)... Now I'm super worried about the other joints, as even on some of the stock through hole joints there is solder flowing onto nearby pads, so it's hard to tell. I think I'm just going to measure each part I installed (or removed) and check for a short, as well as look at nearby parts and if that passes snuff, then power 'er up.
I managed to fit a 2-pin molex KK connector on my PSU board
So, it looks like I just need 2 of the four pins that run up to the display board, so I was planning on just removing 2 wires out of the connector and just putting a resistor inline with the cable somewhere, and then terminating the other side of the cable with a KK housing and plugging it into my psu board.. sound reasonable? Doesn't look like the other two cables are really needed, as there is no where for them to attach to...
I connected my player to a chinese "Super Pro" DAC, modified and with linear PSU.
This DAC directly to a mini VBITNGC.
I think, a keypoint in this project is indeed the spdif connection. Adding this 75R TV 1.5m cable and avoiding one connection by RCA was the biggest improvement in my setup.
All unnecessary glare and harshness has gone. Now it is really perfect, this player.
Again, Peter: Thanks for showing us this project. I just ordered a second player for spare parts...
Franz
This DAC directly to a mini VBITNGC.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I think, a keypoint in this project is indeed the spdif connection. Adding this 75R TV 1.5m cable and avoiding one connection by RCA was the biggest improvement in my setup.
All unnecessary glare and harshness has gone. Now it is really perfect, this player.
Again, Peter: Thanks for showing us this project. I just ordered a second player for spare parts...
Franz
Interesting point about having one less connection Franz.
I experienced similar improvements when I originally used an old Audioquest Topaz, chopping off one end and connecting that (directly - no resistors) to the JVC, and the phono end going into the DAC. I gained extra clarity that way, like you.
In my 'final' (!) build I will again connect the digital interconnect directly to the JVC transport, but this time with the 392 / 93.1 digital output resistors. I've got a BNC on the other end. I'm using a 2 meter cable as well to minimise any digital signal reflections.
After being initially very pleased with the Citizen Crystal, I have gone back to my original belief that the ZTT oscillator sounds better, at least with my equipment and ears I also realised from looking at its data sheet, that the ZTT is directional, unlike the Citizen. Looking at the ZTT from the 'front' (so ZTT branding is visible) the left leg is the output, the middle the ground, the right leg the input.
I have also removed the Elna Silmic ARS 470uF from position C952 and the sound seemed to gain extra speed and fine detailing, without any loss of bass impact or depth. I'm of the opinion that if you mod something, and then don't miss it when its removed, then it stays removed. I thought it was an improvement at the time, but not when I removed it this evening.
Think I really am at the end of the JVC mods now... No... really..... honest! Why does no one believe me?!?
- John
I experienced similar improvements when I originally used an old Audioquest Topaz, chopping off one end and connecting that (directly - no resistors) to the JVC, and the phono end going into the DAC. I gained extra clarity that way, like you.
In my 'final' (!) build I will again connect the digital interconnect directly to the JVC transport, but this time with the 392 / 93.1 digital output resistors. I've got a BNC on the other end. I'm using a 2 meter cable as well to minimise any digital signal reflections.
After being initially very pleased with the Citizen Crystal, I have gone back to my original belief that the ZTT oscillator sounds better, at least with my equipment and ears
I also realised from looking at its data sheet, that the ZTT is directional, unlike the Citizen. Looking at the ZTT from the 'front' (so ZTT branding is visible) the left leg is the output, the middle the ground, the right leg the input.I have also removed the Elna Silmic ARS 470uF from position C952 and the sound seemed to gain extra speed and fine detailing, without any loss of bass impact or depth. I'm of the opinion that if you mod something, and then don't miss it when its removed, then it stays removed. I thought it was an improvement at the time, but not when I removed it this evening.
Think I really am at the end of the JVC mods now... No... really..... honest! Why does no one believe me?!?
- John
Doing this project, I learnt about todays products 
You may have a look at the "tweeters" of a RZEC31...
Franz
You may have a look at the "tweeters" of a RZEC31...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Franz