Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

I've finished constructing the my second board and it exhibits the classic spins but does not read from the CD.

Clock is running and within the limits of an oscilloscope seems to be on frequency (16.92MHz).

Likewise, I've measured the data output of both the good and bad units and compared them.

I've been over the components twice, even changing some caps I could not measure in circuit just to be sure they are correct.

I measured all of the resistors using the good board as a reference for values, so they should be good.

Any suggestions?
 

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There is only one important point to note.
The laser as supplied new has a solder link in place to protect the it from static electricity damage.
You need to remove this small link with a soldering iron or sharp knife.
This is shown in the last picture of this listing.
It is to the left of the connector on the laser.
The laser is also fitted with a protective plastic cover.
This simply unclips and is to be discarded after fitting the mechanism in place.

Regards,
Rudy
 

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Laser Solder link...

Rudy,

The only bit of solder in you posted picture is the one to left edge of the board and just left of the connector. I take it this is the "link" you are suggesting needs to be removed?

If that is correct, this information should be noted in the data that comes with the kits and in the "Using the new 2012 Shigaclone..." page.

Tibi...Do the mounted and test units have said link removed?
 
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Yes, you must remove that blob of solder, just as you describe. It's a static protection measure on any of these mechs you buy.

My kit still had it, and in fairness its probably best to keep it until it gets to the owner. It was a mentioned in the original shiga pdf (okapi mods) but I don't think it's in the latest manual from tibi.

I did an extended listening session with a friend last night. We both thought the Vicol shigaclone sounded "better" than either of my other 2 jvc shigas, both of which are well tweaked. It was more analog and easier on the ear. More front to back depth in the soundstage. And bear in mind the Vicol shigaclone is just sitting on a wooden block.


Fran
 
TheGimp,

I suggest you to check components and soldering very close.
Some parts will broke or make fissures if soldering station have no proper temp adjusted.
I personally had problems with C50. If you solder this at more than 250°C/ 482°F this will broke or will make thin fissures.

Regards,
Tibi
 
All IC leads re-soldered with enough (too much) solder to bulge over the leads. (pad for pin 10 on U2 (la6541) lifted, but it is a NC pin so ok. All discrete components re-soldered with excess solder.

Board cleaned with alcohol and inspected again. No issues found. I'll try it again this evening. Hopefully this fixed it.
 
Best Digital Cables for the Shinga

All of us using the Shinga Transport are going to need a Digital Cable of some kind. I am trying to determine what cable to get and where one reaches the point of diminishing returns on the money spent. You can spend insane amounts of money on this stuff if you are so inclined.

Is anyone aware of any serious comparisons of at least some of the available digital cables?

That leads to the next question...What digital cables...that are readily available...are considered to be really good?