Very good job Peter.
Your last shigaclone is one of the best looking (in my judgment) together with audio1st wooden top plate (Erik apart). Really a source of ideas. Thanks.
I'm thinking of separating ps from mechanics too. Why didn't you put regulator and capacitors together with transformer and diodes? Just a matter of room in the Hammond enclosure or a technical choice?
Your last shigaclone is one of the best looking (in my judgment) together with audio1st wooden top plate (Erik apart). Really a source of ideas. Thanks.
I'm thinking of separating ps from mechanics too. Why didn't you put regulator and capacitors together with transformer and diodes? Just a matter of room in the Hammond enclosure or a technical choice?
It's always better to place regulator close to the circuit.
I didn't notice lack of body; part of the signature comes from a chassis and the way mechanical support is implemented, part from PS and caps following 5V regulator. I used BG N 47/50 here, which is rather warm and "dense" sounding.
The key element with that version was simplicity. That's why no springs. It was a gamble, but it came out surprisingly well
Quite a few people commented that green elastic elements that come originally with a mechanism, didn't sound well and mounting it directly was better.
I didn't notice lack of body; part of the signature comes from a chassis and the way mechanical support is implemented, part from PS and caps following 5V regulator. I used BG N 47/50 here, which is rather warm and "dense" sounding.
The key element with that version was simplicity. That's why no springs. It was a gamble, but it came out surprisingly well
Quite a few people commented that green elastic elements that come originally with a mechanism, didn't sound well and mounting it directly was better.
Well, some of you may find it strange, but in this particular build I tried Citizen crystal and went back to the original resonator, and I prefer it this way.
The original resonator makes for better presence and acoustic space, which give particular edge to the recordings and the feel of freshness. The Citizen crystal may seem more smooth or refined, but some of the magic is gone.
So, never take anything for granted, and try things yourself
The original resonator makes for better presence and acoustic space, which give particular edge to the recordings and the feel of freshness. The Citizen crystal may seem more smooth or refined, but some of the magic is gone.
So, never take anything for granted, and try things yourself
You're referring to C916, aren't you?
I've a Elna RFS 47/35 to try in that position.
However I decided to follow a step-by-step path.
I want to be accustomed with the sound of the stock board before starting swapping components on the board.
It's quite puzzling your last note about crystal.
It seems there's no standard modification (electronics and mechanics) good for everybody.
It's like each one needs to find the best for himself.
C952 is removed (as well as the L901 choke), C916 is replaced by BG N 47/50; corresponding ceramic bypasses are also removed.
I added BG N 4.7/50 in parallel with first BG STD in regulator circuit, as the sound was a bit too "abrassive" for my taste.
This is how it looks after all is done.
I added BG N 4.7/50 in parallel with first BG STD in regulator circuit, as the sound was a bit too "abrassive" for my taste.
This is how it looks after all is done.
Attachments
Peter Daniel said:
I had a very similar experience when I removed the cover on mine, the change seemed subtle, but I thought I heard a small but definite improvement, enough so in fact that when I put the cover back on I did not like the result. Coincidence? Unlikely since I was strongly biased in favor of keeping the original cover. (Actually I did not believe it would have any audible effect whatsoever. )
My mechanism is mounted on a fairly thick aluminum plate (about 9mm) with two phosphor bronze bars (roughly 3.5KG) for additional mass attached with a thin layer of JB weld. I thought it sounded much better mounted exactly as Peter originally recommended. I did try it with the original bushings and didn't like it at all.
Peter your latest implementation is simply elegant.
I'd like to comment on the removal of the plastic cover & mounting of the mechanism.
When the mechanism is mounted firmly on a stiff foundation such as Peter's copper plate then the whole assembly's natural frequency will be different compared to a mechanism floating on springs, probably higher frequency. So this different ringing mode could be improving the sound.
Removing the plastic cover also changes the ringing mode / frequency.
Moreover, I would use 3 points to restraint the mechanism onto its foundation- which is kinematically correct. 2 restraints would allow for some twisting movement to take place. 4 restraints would potentially bend the mechanism in a wrong position.
If I was designing the thing I would try to keep the mechanism's natural frequency as further away from the motor's frequency as possible, to reduce the amplitude of vibrations. Moreover I would use a material with high internal damping for the foundation, such as good ol' wood.
Another explanation could be that removing the plastic cover allows for better cooling of the laser lenses thus changing the sound?
However all the above scenarios are mechanical & thermal effects. In theory they shouldn't at all affect the quality of sound, which is transferred digitally !!! right???
So I've just made an contradicting statement once again!!
ps: btw Peter I just love your latest creation - I just love the simplicity
When the mechanism is mounted firmly on a stiff foundation such as Peter's copper plate then the whole assembly's natural frequency will be different compared to a mechanism floating on springs, probably higher frequency. So this different ringing mode could be improving the sound.
Removing the plastic cover also changes the ringing mode / frequency.
Moreover, I would use 3 points to restraint the mechanism onto its foundation- which is kinematically correct. 2 restraints would allow for some twisting movement to take place. 4 restraints would potentially bend the mechanism in a wrong position.
If I was designing the thing I would try to keep the mechanism's natural frequency as further away from the motor's frequency as possible, to reduce the amplitude of vibrations. Moreover I would use a material with high internal damping for the foundation, such as good ol' wood.
Another explanation could be that removing the plastic cover allows for better cooling of the laser lenses thus changing the sound?
However all the above scenarios are mechanical & thermal effects. In theory they shouldn't at all affect the quality of sound, which is transferred digitally !!! right???
So I've just made an contradicting statement once again!!
ps: btw Peter I just love your latest creation - I just love the simplicity
I would've never thought of using two screws for mounting the mechanism, but after noticing it in Shigaraki transport, I thought mybe there is something to it and I compared 4 screw mount to two only and preferred the latter. Never tried 3 screws though
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
tripmaster - thnx...
also - if i want to use analogue output from the transport (before i make the external dac) i simply use CN902 pins R-CH, L-CH i DGND - correct????
and one more for this post - the switch for the door (CN904) has to be closed all the time or just once to initiate the reading of the CD ...???
thnx for any answers....
regards
also - if i want to use analogue output from the transport (before i make the external dac) i simply use CN902 pins R-CH, L-CH i DGND - correct????
and one more for this post - the switch for the door (CN904) has to be closed all the time or just once to initiate the reading of the CD ...???
thnx for any answers....
regards
Here is my first contribution of this great threat.
About the TOC switch. I bend the contact of the TOC switch as a normally closed contact. Put the disk on and open the switch for a short period. The transport is reading the TOC now. No need for a switch clamp.
I recorded the noise of the mechanism with accelerometer.
Listen to the attached mp3 file.
After this measurement, I think there is a need for a bearing system that is more accurate and decoupled from the mechanism. I’m working on a simple air bearing system right now.
About the TOC switch. I bend the contact of the TOC switch as a normally closed contact. Put the disk on and open the switch for a short period. The transport is reading the TOC now. No need for a switch clamp.
I recorded the noise of the mechanism with accelerometer.
Listen to the attached mp3 file.
After this measurement, I think there is a need for a bearing system that is more accurate and decoupled from the mechanism. I’m working on a simple air bearing system right now.