Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

Re: Discount Jungle

mithomas said:
luvdunhill,
I ordered a 31 from discount Jungle, I assume it's not going to be the right product. Any trouble returning it?

"We are sorry to hear about your concern.
Unfortunately, we are unable to get the RC-EZ31 model.
Please be advised that we shipped the upgraded model instead to make you
happy.
The RC-EZ35 is newer and more expensive model."

:rolleyes:
 
Peter Daniel: "Here the pics of one prototype that did not work as I expected:"

Hi Peter!

Just out of curiosity, what do you do to your prototypes once discarded? I don't suppose the prototype you mention would be for sale would it? It looks gorgeous!

Most of your 'prototypes' are FAR better than most people's successes!

Cheers,

John
 
luvdunhill said:



I don't see why the I2S output wouldn't work. It's there on the chip.


Where? I cant see it . :mad:

Anyway I am very pleased with the <first impression> of this transport . Just connected the digital output without modifications ( I have to start to do them ) and easyly it outperformed a 200€ dvd player ( no surprise after all ) . It is obvious the capacity of sailing without efforts ..I cant wait to do all the job ;)
 
The mods presented in pdf file are changes that suited my needs and my equipment, don't do them all at once.

Start with clean PS: remove all ceramic caps, choke and 470uF cap (on board) mentioned in pdf file, then build external PS: good transformer with 24V CT or similar, 2 x MSR860 diodes, LM7808 regulator and 2 x 1000uF caps. BG STD is good choice after requaltor, before regulator you may try the same cap, BG FK or whatever else you find available and suitable.

Then start replacing caps on board: you may find my choices working fine, or you may find that something else works better FOR YOU. But don't do it all at once, as you will loose track of what works and what not.

The untouched board, with just PS mods, works quite well and some of you may find that additional adjustement are not needed at all.

What I found though, is that mechanical build was quite important and it's definitely worth to do some work here.

I started with acrylic platform, later switched to spruce board and only then found heavy frame on springs even better. It's also recommended to mount the mechanism on two standoffs only; it really sounds better that way... and I wouldn't try if I didn't see it in Shigaraki ;)
 
Peter Daniel said:


I started with acrylic platform, later switched to spruce board and only then found heavy frame on springs even better. It's also recommended to mount the mechanism on two standoffs only; it really sounds better that way... and I wouldn't try if I didn't see it in Shigaraki ;)

That is really interesting , and it reminds me of the Rega Planar 9 turntable ( doing exception for the springs ) :) I will try that for sure , anyway in your Post#9 pictures it seems you are mounting the mechanism on all the 4 stands ....
 
That was a different approach where I intended to create as much contact area between mechanism plate and copper/brass chassis as posible, speculating that extensive damping may improve things. Unfortunately, it didn't work at all; the sound was dead and uninvolving. I later tried 4 spacers as pictured below, but even then ended up with only 2, and it was the best I could get from that assembly.
 

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Peter, do you think it would be OK to use a 47uF instead of 33uF capacitor in the 'E2' position as shown on the DIY mods PDF? I have a few Elna Cerafines in this value and I'd rather use those than pay £10 just for one Black Gate 33uF/postage.

Cheers,

- John
 
Okapi, just wanted to say thanks for the DIY PDF you posted here for download - have read it about 20 times now prior to receiving my JVC (hopefully tomorrow!!!).

Just one thing which could be updated - how about adding how to connect the LED for the LCD? I believe the power is taken from just after the rectifiers?

Cheers.

- John