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Stripdown/Clean of CDM12.4
Stripdown/Clean of CDM12.4
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Old 26th December 2017, 06:50 PM   #41
peterpl is offline peterpl  Poland
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I did as I planned. First I took out the pickup. You have to take out the big white gearwheel using some force. To release the chrome rail you have to pull out the white clamp, The ending switch has not to be unscrewed but it's a chance to clean it as well.
To get into contacts on the pickup the metal shield has to be removed. It is soldered in two places. To take it out I used desoldering wick. After removal I saw preamplifier chip made by Philips with following description TZA1022 TS; V7247 01;Dn 602092. I resoldered all joints by applying some fluid flux and touching with soldering iron tip. My iron has ca. 220 degrees Celsius so it shouldn't damage the electronics. The chip connections are ultra small so I just crossed them with hot iron. Then I cleaned everything with alcohol and assembled back and put the VAM1250 into Marantz DR4050. It started playing immediately !


I have general question: it is not written on a pickup that it is VAM 1250. In my pickup the description is 1VC0573 does it mean anything ? How do you know having just a pickup to what VAM or CDM it belongs to ? Just from description on a box ?
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Old 27th December 2017, 01:47 PM   #42
Mooly is offline Mooly  United Kingdom
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Stripdown/Clean of CDM12.4
That's great news

As far as I know the only way to reliably tell what you have is from the description/code on the box. The other number seems to relate just to the lens and its holder, or possibly some in house production code.
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Old 29th December 2017, 12:00 PM   #43
peterpl is offline peterpl  Poland
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I would like to come back to post #1. You mentioned about cleaning and lubricating of the pickup.


a) cleaning - what do you use ? I was reading plenty of posts and came to conclusion that only demineralized water should be used as isoporopanolol and other solvents (windows washer) may destroy an anti glare coating on the lens. Of course water has to be then wiped out with a cloth (microfibre or leather used for glasses). You have to watch as water may go inside focusing wires so it's better to wait some time to be sure it dried out.


b) lubricating - Philips recommends Tribol by Castrol but it is supplied in really big containers. There are three sorts of lubricants (what I noticed)
- silicone grease which is not good to electrical connections
- white lithium grease - the best (?)
- grease with molibdenum disulphide - also not good, not sure why.
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Old 29th December 2017, 01:52 PM   #44
Mooly is offline Mooly  United Kingdom
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Stripdown/Clean of CDM12.4
Yes, pure isopropyl isn't to be recommended.

Having exhausted my special Sony lens cleaning fluid I now make my own which consists of pure water and isopropyl alcohol in an approximate 70:30 ratio. I guess I make around 10ml at a time whenever I do this, just enough to fill a very small bottle.

I actually use steam from a kettle blowing onto an freezer ice pack to get the water.

To that solution I add one very small drop of ordinary detergent (washing up liquid).

And that's it

The lubricant I prefer is one that is for plastics/metal use such as this:
http://cpc.farnell.com/electrolube/s...ngdom%2Fsearch
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Old 31st December 2017, 12:04 PM   #45
peterpl is offline peterpl  Poland
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And what about replacing isopropyl with ethanol and add 60% of water, in other words use pure grain vodka. Would you approve that ?
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Old 31st December 2017, 01:32 PM   #46
Mooly is offline Mooly  United Kingdom
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I wouldn't like to say on that. You can get a good idea though because any fluid you use should dry without residue. So try a little on a perfectly clean glass and see if it dries without trace.
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Old 13th January 2018, 03:57 PM   #47
peterpl is offline peterpl  Poland
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Happy New Year !!!
Having a chance to buy an unused CDM 12.6 for equivalent of 5 pounds I decided to use it for scientific purposes. I wondered if it is possible to take out the lens assembly in order to have acces to bottom side of the lens as well as to the prism and "diode cave". The lens assembly is hanging on four "hands" made of very thin plastic. There are 2 hands on each side connected vertically and clamped to the lens assembly. You may lift the lens assembly up to a certain point and that's it. I have used toothpick as a wedge and was able to unclamp the assembly and turn it upside down. You have to watch of course on focusing wires as they are extra thin but having time and doing everything carefully there's no big risk for damage. Please have a look on pictures !
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Old 13th January 2018, 05:31 PM   #48
Mooly is offline Mooly  United Kingdom
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Stripdown/Clean of CDM12.4
Nice work It would be good to have a player to test it in. Having gone this far you could also try cracking the LD out of its housing. The epoxy glue cracks very cleanly and easily.
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Old 14th January 2018, 11:19 AM   #49
peterpl is offline peterpl  Poland
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I will test it in the nearest opportunity. My idea was to know what to do in case of a need for cleaning the pickup which is actually playing. As to LD cracking - perhaps for curiosity, but on this topic I can see how the LD looks like. The original diode is on e-bay for ca $36 plus mailing. Noone sells it in Poland. So Iwill rather wait for a bargain.
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Old 14th January 2018, 11:55 AM   #50
Mooly is offline Mooly  United Kingdom
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Stripdown/Clean of CDM12.4
I was thinking along the lines of comparing the RF before and after cleaning (to see if it increased) and also with the LD whether it can be,

a/ Removed and refitted and still work OK (same RF output). This would be leaving the original glue in place.

b/ As above but cleaning the glue off and seeing then seeing how critical the diode placement/rotation is.
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