I need some help cd-pro2 problem: connectors

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Hello all,

I am in the procces of building myself a cd-pro2 based player, and I have some questions about the digital and analoge connectors I CAN use.

First I have the option (I do, don`t I ?) to fitt these:

Digital Outputs:
1 S/PDIF (BNC)

1 AES/EBU (XLR)

Analog Outputs: 1 pr. balanced (XLR)
1 pr. unbalanced (RCA)

Now I get the analoge part, - think- not to difficult...

But I`m curious about the digital part; The s/pdif (bnc) how does it connect, and I`m I talking 75ohm here?

the same with the AES/EBU how does that connect, and can I connect both digital outputs to the cd-pro2?

Can I just parallel the digital outputs, or something? just like the analoge?

And could someone explain the differeces between the 2 digital connections -better/worse, and what it means.


I hope someone can help me cos I`m kinda stuck with this "design problem"


Grtz
 
Tnx for the response,

I was wondering why nobody usses balanced outputs...:rolleyes:

For this is my first upgrade -and many will follow ;) - I`m trying to implement as many usefull options I might not even use now. Is2 Is also one I`m thinking of..
I heard there are as many of 4 different types, I never seen any DAC equiped with it... Are there any?

after reading your cd-pro2 post: how does it sound now; have you made any improvements on the suspension/setup?


grtz
:)
 
Not that I want to be off topic or anything :cool:

But have you tried the spring suspension? There is a lot to debate about, but the ears make the final discision I think.

The only reference to the pro2 is a ultra heavy modified philips cd player, -using as many as 16 different power suply`s- one using the vau1251 transport. It sounded better than anything I heard. How do you compare your player to others; can it compete with exotic prized cd players, like some teacs, and maybe even Wadia?
 
Wazzup,

I'm curious to know what kind of circuit your up to build could you share the circuit or point to a link?

Isn't the TDA1543 a simple and old 16 bit DAC?

Sorry, not much knowledge on high end (or even low, for that matter) digital circuits.

Some thoughts will be welcomed.
 
You can find the schematic at :
http://www.daisy-laser.nl/homeoptics/page28.html

Some modifications have been made to improve the power supply a bit, it may seem like a very simple power supply, but with good components it will do fine. Building a complexer power supply, also adds to the cost, and bearing in mind that I have to build loads of power supply`s, to eliminate interference, I think this one works well. Instead of the lm7805 I`m using the lm337, which is better in the hf area. All caps are black gates, and for rectifing, Schottky diodes are used.

The pro2 uses a TDA1305 , and does not sound bad, paired with a stable construction for the cd-pro2, and a good hf filtered power suply. When the player is finished, I will just have to live with it for a while, as I`m only doing one project at a time. Later I will build a DAC, but considering I`m using a 100$ Sony cd player now, my upgrade will be quite a good one.

I don`t know about the TDA1543...
:rolleyes:
 
wazzup said:
Not that I want to be off topic or anything :cool:

But have you tried the spring suspension? There is a lot to debate about, but the ears make the final discision I think.

The only reference to the pro2 is a ultra heavy modified philips cd player, -using as many as 16 different power suply`s- one using the vau1251 transport. It sounded better than anything I heard. How do you compare your player to others; can it compete with exotic prized cd players, like some teacs, and maybe even Wadia?

I'm currently using 4 separate PS on the transport alone. You can't use more unless you want't to interfere with inner circuits.

My DAC, which is based on paralleled PCM 1704, is using 15 separate PS with 8 separate transformers. I only compared this to my old CD/DAC combo (which was selling for $16,000 CAD in 1991) and the DAC is way better, transport is marginally better. I don't know how it compares to the current "cream of the crop" ;) gear.

But I don't look in any way to the analog front end and I'm selling my TT. I tried soft suspention based on sort of foam pillows, but hard suspention provides more authority and definition in lower end of spectrum, and if suspending platform is chosen properly the rest of spectrum sounds fine as well. By that I mean that the signature of anything you place under the player is detectable sonically. I achieved good results with combination of spikes, acrylic feet, granite/blown rubber sandwich, sand box. But recent addition of pneumatic suspention changed my views on what is possible. It's just much more coherent presentation, if I use proper words. The main thing is almost unlimited and unrestricted extention of high frequencies, which are simply uncolored.
 
Hi,

I second the motion for pneumatic suspensions.

Over the years I have tried almost every imagineable combination from soft (blutac and sorbo) to the hardest cones/points etc., together with soft woods to glass and stainless steel shelves, and of course, they are all different sounding as supports.

A couple of years ago I attended a demo of some Townshend Seismic Sinks, which use air bladders for isolation, and when the guy doing the demo let the air out of the supports, the difference in sound was amazing. I had never heard such a change in the overall sound at one time, and I got some of them to try for myself.:nod:

This was one of the few audio expenditures I have made for years, as I like to DIY normally, but these supports are just so much better than anything I tried of my own.

As Peter suggests, it is almost like being in a different league, and if can run to them, I very much doubt that you would regret it.

I have heard of using sheets of 'bubble wrap' under equipment, which would seem to give a similar isolating effect, but I haven't yet tried this, myself, so I cannot say for sure how effective it is.

As it would be free, though, it would seem to be well worth trying, and maybe if it suited you well, it would be worth trying a proprietary kind of pneumatic shelf.

Regards,:)
 
Peter can u post a picture of your suspension? I`m not quite sure how to interpet it. I think it also differs where you put the suspension; directly suporting the drive, or as a buffer, beneath.
Its quite sick, that one has to take DIY into "the twilight zone" to improve the sound even more. I guess I like it ;)


grtz
 
And here's the pneumatic platform.
 

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