Hi!
I recently discovered these forums and now I want to try out the basic op-amps replacement for my good old Sony CDP-990. It now has two RC5532DDs.
If it helps, I would like to achieve a bit more precise, clearer and tighter sound.
Only op-amp mentioned here which I could find in one scandinavian online shop www.elfa.se is OPA 2134. Is this still a valid choice or are the better ones available? What would you recommend?
I recently discovered these forums and now I want to try out the basic op-amps replacement for my good old Sony CDP-990. It now has two RC5532DDs.
If it helps, I would like to achieve a bit more precise, clearer and tighter sound.
Only op-amp mentioned here which I could find in one scandinavian online shop www.elfa.se is OPA 2134. Is this still a valid choice or are the better ones available? What would you recommend?
I have a couple of CDP-990 players and the best opamp upgrade was the AD825. Much better than the OPA2134 which tended to be a bit shouty and over blown when used. It was still quite good but the AD825 is just yummy.
Be aware that the AD825 is a single opamp so 2 have to be added, 1 on top and the other under on a Browndog adaptor to make it a dual like the 5532.
http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/pc/IC-Module-AD825/IC-Modules/Sound
The power to the opamp is only 5V, so will not suit a lot of others.
Have a look at changing the output caps C406, C506 (non US model only where IC203 is CXD2552Q) to Blackgate NX 47uF 6.3V. I've also used Nichicon ES 47uF 50V with very good results.
http://www.minisemi.com/e-es.pdf
Be aware that the AD825 is a single opamp so 2 have to be added, 1 on top and the other under on a Browndog adaptor to make it a dual like the 5532.
http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/pc/IC-Module-AD825/IC-Modules/Sound
The power to the opamp is only 5V, so will not suit a lot of others.
Have a look at changing the output caps C406, C506 (non US model only where IC203 is CXD2552Q) to Blackgate NX 47uF 6.3V. I've also used Nichicon ES 47uF 50V with very good results.
http://www.minisemi.com/e-es.pdf
Thanks for the suggestion!
So, just to make sure, I would need 4 of the amps you suggested and 2 of the adapters?
Can you also please be a bit more precise about the adapter? Which one is the right from the below page?
http://cimarrontechnology.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=5
AD825 seemed to be available also as dual version in that shop you linked. Wouldn't that fit one to one?
Any other equally good (or almost) op-amp that I could simply throw in there without any extra components?
So, just to make sure, I would need 4 of the amps you suggested and 2 of the adapters?
Can you also please be a bit more precise about the adapter? Which one is the right from the below page?
http://cimarrontechnology.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=5
AD825 seemed to be available also as dual version in that shop you linked. Wouldn't that fit one to one?
Any other equally good (or almost) op-amp that I could simply throw in there without any extra components?
That's right, you need 4 opamps and 2 adaptors.
You need 020302 http://cimarrontechnology.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=24
The dual version is using 2 opamps and the second one is under the adaptor. The square hole on the adaptor is Pin 1.
You could try the OPA2134 as it's still very good and use that on a few CDP's here. There's been a lot of positive talk about the LM4562. I haven't used it but it is supposed to be very good.
OPA2132 is another alternative. I have tried the AD826 and LM6172 and didn't like both of them in the player but of course, it comes down to personal taste.
Some opamp info here:
http://tangentsoft.net/audio/opamps.html
You need 020302 http://cimarrontechnology.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=24
The dual version is using 2 opamps and the second one is under the adaptor. The square hole on the adaptor is Pin 1.
You could try the OPA2134 as it's still very good and use that on a few CDP's here. There's been a lot of positive talk about the LM4562. I haven't used it but it is supposed to be very good.
OPA2132 is another alternative. I have tried the AD826 and LM6172 and didn't like both of them in the player but of course, it comes down to personal taste.
Some opamp info here:
http://tangentsoft.net/audio/opamps.html
Thanks for the clarification. There seems to be quite a few choices 
Ok, it seems I can find LM4562 within EU. These are duals so I don't need the adapters, right?
The price difference seems quite a big too!
2xOPA2134 = 3.1 EUR
2xLM4562 = 17 EUR
So, might get a set of both and try them out....
Ok, it seems I can find LM4562 within EU. These are duals so I don't need the adapters, right?
The price difference seems quite a big too!
2xOPA2134 = 3.1 EUR
2xLM4562 = 17 EUR
So, might get a set of both and try them out....
Both are dual opamps and make sure you get the right package. You need DIP8 and intall IC sockets first so you can swap out opamps quickly. Just take note of pin 1 position.
http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/pc/IC-Socket-8-Pin/IC-Modules/Sound
http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/pc/IC-Socket-8-Pin/IC-Modules/Sound
I received a pair of LM4562s and OPA2134s a few days ago.
First I installed the LM4562s. Easy job, first the sockets then the chips.
I've been listening a few days now and there are some differences to be heard for sure:
- More spacious sound. I guess you can call it a wider soundfield?
- More tight and controlled low end. Before bass was a "rounder".
- Clearer highs. I can hear the symbals better, and that includes the actual hit to the instrument. Overall the highs are still pretty soft and not at all too bright.
Music like Knopfler's Sailing to Philadelphia, PFs Dark side of the Moon and Gilmour's On an Island sound better than before. However, heavier rock and blues rock didn't benefit as much IMO. Naturally the speakers have a huge effect too...
Overall I like the change. It's not dramatic but it is there.
I have kept the CDs playing all days long to do the burn-in, if it indeed has an effect
Maybe after a few days I take the time and put in the OPA2134s.
First I installed the LM4562s. Easy job, first the sockets then the chips.
I've been listening a few days now and there are some differences to be heard for sure:
- More spacious sound. I guess you can call it a wider soundfield?
- More tight and controlled low end. Before bass was a "rounder".
- Clearer highs. I can hear the symbals better, and that includes the actual hit to the instrument. Overall the highs are still pretty soft and not at all too bright.
Music like Knopfler's Sailing to Philadelphia, PFs Dark side of the Moon and Gilmour's On an Island sound better than before. However, heavier rock and blues rock didn't benefit as much IMO. Naturally the speakers have a huge effect too...
Overall I like the change. It's not dramatic but it is there.
I have kept the CDs playing all days long to do the burn-in, if it indeed has an effect
Maybe after a few days I take the time and put in the OPA2134s.
I swapped in the DC blocking Blackgates the other week and to be honest I haven't heard much difference to either direction. Might be that they need more burn-in but so far nothing to report
Except that I'm fairly sure that the player started to make a little hum after swapping the caps.! You can hear it only close but it definately is there. I don't recall this hum before the cap change. Anyone experienced the same after a cap change?
I also bought some 4mm thick bitumen mat and glued it inside the player, mostly on the cover. It made the player quite heavy and it helps to reduce jitter and made it less sensitive to skip.
Except that I'm fairly sure that the player started to make a little hum after swapping the caps.! You can hear it only close but it definately is there. I don't recall this hum before the cap change. Anyone experienced the same after a cap change?
I also bought some 4mm thick bitumen mat and glued it inside the player, mostly on the cover. It made the player quite heavy and it helps to reduce jitter and made it less sensitive to skip.
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