Lol, as you are, Although my tda1541a dac porn pictures are very less sexy than Hanse's dac.
Edit, some froufrous are on the way to make the lady even sexier here... Italian Andrea Mori Discroll oscillator board with oven for a temperature controlled sc cut crystal of 5 Mhz...I'm redbooked to death.
Edit, some froufrous are on the way to make the lady even sexier here... Italian Andrea Mori Discroll oscillator board with oven for a temperature controlled sc cut crystal of 5 Mhz...I'm redbooked to death.
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Hi,
No. Only tried the ADUM USB isolator. Good improvement. I also have one USB cable modded/split into two: power-ground/shield; data+/data-(shield?; I don't remember), and it makes also an improvement.
Guys, this electro-optic link is wonderful. I am looking for other transport and DACs to mod.
Anyone knows higher quality/faster LEDs???
Cheers,
M.
Elektro-optic link, part 3.
But what if your source cannot drive your Optic input receiver and the DAC end, via your electric coaxial cable???
You can always use a tiny UHF buffer like I did with my son's (unused; he listens to his phone) Chinese SD-card player.
https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/NC7SZ125-D.PDF
Now I wonder, how long will the red LED last?... considering maybe 50% duty cycle and +/-5V supply...
How would an elektro-optic linked I2S input perform???
My daughter n°2 has a good cellphone camera. Here you can better see the red LED gently convinced to enter the TORX177 protector cap.
The tiny buffer is not a joke to work with!
Now I am sure I can transform any digital source into an Elektro-optik capable source.
I hope you like it and feel encouraged to try it.
Cheers,
M.
But what if your source cannot drive your Optic input receiver and the DAC end, via your electric coaxial cable???
You can always use a tiny UHF buffer
like I did with my son's (unused; he listens to his phone) Chinese SD-card player.https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/NC7SZ125-D.PDF
Now I wonder, how long will the red LED last?... considering maybe 50% duty cycle and +/-5V supply...
How would an elektro-optic linked I2S input perform???
My daughter n°2 has a good cellphone camera. Here you can better see the red LED gently convinced to enter the TORX177 protector cap.
The tiny buffer is not a joke to work with!
Now I am sure I can transform any digital source into an Elektro-optik capable source.
I hope you like it and feel encouraged to try it.
Cheers,
M.
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Yea. I imagined that. I am short of one TORX by now but I do have the buffers' circuit.
I am sure -EC- will achieve "Master Tape quality" audio with his implementation of the Fractal DAC fed through ElectroTos, given my own experience.
Now I am listening in main system n°2 to Wagner's Parsifal, Philips Great Recordings, recorded live in 1962 from Bayreuther Festspiele, with Hans Knapperstbusch conducting, Jess Thomas as Parsifal, Hans Hotter as Gurnemanz, George London as Amfortas, Gustav Neidlinger as Klingsor and Irene Dalis as Kundry...what a team. Never sounded better...
I wish we had a complete Parsifal with Max Lorenz...
Cheers,
M.
More pics.
Use a little epoxi to fix the red LED and to fix the sleeve, a "Sharpy" pen cover. Then heath-shrink.
Of course, a metal cover connected to ground could also be used...
Perfect grip and I hope near perfect Data transmission.
I hope you like it.
M.
Use a little epoxi to fix the red LED and to fix the sleeve, a "Sharpy" pen cover. Then heath-shrink.
Of course, a metal cover connected to ground could also be used...
Perfect grip and I hope near perfect Data transmission.
I hope you like it.
M.
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This thread is so long, that it is hard to extract certain information.
I've got a question and hope someone can give me a direction.
What is the easiest, still good sounding kind of I/V stage ? I dont want to use tubes, because i need to transport the device often and dont want to stress the tubes.
There are many discrete designs, that can not be build today, because of lack of transistors (some are not available anymore). I dont want to go the opamp route, most of my opamp attempts resulted in more or less oscilation problems.
I can create PCBs and also solder SMD down to 0603, so this is also an option.
Can you help me please, electronics are a hobby for me and being a programmer, i dont know how to design an I/V stage by my own, help would be great.
I've got a question and hope someone can give me a direction.
What is the easiest, still good sounding kind of I/V stage ? I dont want to use tubes, because i need to transport the device often and dont want to stress the tubes.
There are many discrete designs, that can not be build today, because of lack of transistors (some are not available anymore). I dont want to go the opamp route, most of my opamp attempts resulted in more or less oscilation problems.
I can create PCBs and also solder SMD down to 0603, so this is also an option.
Can you help me please, electronics are a hobby for me and being a programmer, i dont know how to design an I/V stage by my own, help would be great.
Best solution so far: adapter from mini to regular Toslink.
I hope pictures are self- explanatory.
Sound seems fuller now.
Hi Max,
Seems a very nice solution.
Found these adapters on ebay.
Not quite clear to me is, if the part where you put the red led in is in this adapter. I can't tell from the pictures they show.
I have the MOS16 of John. I like it, but as you also mentioned it is very thin from sound. It lacks bass and especially punch in mid bass. When I have time I will open it and mod it like you did.
I guess we have a bit different taste. I like dynamics and transparency also .
Great work!
Suggest you also post this query on Ryanj's D3 thread, as they are kind of a practical builder's offshoot of this research thread. Lot's of current 1541a builders employing the best practices from this one. I use tubes so I can't help.
I have the MOS16, and the UPL as well, which was retrofitted by John with the ElectroTos Cable.
I have made many comparisons of both the MOS DAC and UPL in several systems here in France - some of them quite "high end", with expensive sources.
Concerning the MOS DAC, I do not agree that it is "light". It is very transparent, and IMO works very well with the UPL as a source.
The UPL is really an extraodinary source. With the ElectroTOS interlink it is even better than with the regular Toslink interlink. No other source provides the same "natural" and "involving" sound - anyone who has heard it agrees. It is really the "best kept secret" in Audio today, and I do not understand that it has gone under the radar. I use it daily, and find that the putting music on the USB keys is not very convenient, but simply cannot do without it. In general, I get "jaw dropping" reactions when playing the UPL - provided the DAC being used has a good Toslink input.
But even if one does not want to use the UPL exclusively, it can be used as a "benchmark" to compare with other sources, and evaluate the "transparency" of one's system. I systematically take it with me when evaluating components at friends'.
Following John's instructions, I also modified their UTOS USB adapter to use it with the ElectroTos cable, and the sound is better, but far from the quality of the UPL.
The next iterations in ECDesigns' products is IMO going to be a game-changer in digital audio. I am 100% confident that their new solution will provide even better SQ than the UPL/MOS, and this with a simple "non audiophile" computer as a source. I cannot wait !
In the meantime - one piece of advice: do not waste your time and money on "audiophile" (read - "expensive") sources - they are all going to be "obsolete" very soon
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The I/V that Ryanj integrated into his TDA1541 D3 smd board, which I’m pretty sure was designed by our very own ecdesigns.
I own the D3 board and this is also the Board that i want to create an IV stage for.
Am I missing something ? I thought that i need to connect an IV stage after Ryan's circuit... The circuit is only to bias the output and should be followed by an IV stage that amplifies the signal. Or is a simple resistor really enough for IV ?
The whole circuit branch, including R35 / R36 is an I/V. That’s all you need.
Thank you very much for the hint. What is the Pot for ? How do i need to adjust it... Hope its ok that i ask it here.
Thank you very much for explaining this. Can i download somewhere a wav file with digital silence ?
Yes! The item has it inside. You can see the damage I produced when pulling it off.
Black Optical Audio Adapter 3.5mm Female Jack Plug to Digital Toslink Male Tool | eBay
Well, I would not say sound is very thin. It is only that is not optimal in my taste. It must be frustrating for the designers, and wonderful for us,that we can still tailor the sound of the equipment to our taste making some tricks here and there.
I removed the last Super-Ecap, the red one, as it made the sound too thick and bass heavy with "plastic" highs.Now I am trying 1uF Wima film there. I recommend starting with the main board caps, not supply board where supply, not the board where main supply and Tx are, as space there is very scarce... the other option is making a bigger box and placing lots of caps on the main supply,in the typical exaggerated DIY fashion. Thanks for the kind words.
I wonder how could I add and optic input to my MOSAIC DAC.
I bet a good transport would sound better than Rapsberry.
Have fun. Make all that that brings Joy to your life and your immune system will be the strongest. Joy and Compassion are the clue for Mastery of Self.
M.
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