ADAU1701 audio completely distorted after a while

At this point, I'd be inclined to build up a second copy of the board and see how it works.
If the new board has the same problem, either it's a circuit design error or a problem with the board.

I forgot to say: I made two boards... Same components, same circuit, assembled by JLPCB. One in each speaker box. The problem is the same in both. BUT, I made some mods oriented by this thread on one of them and the distortion now take more time to appear.

Maybe the solution are close.
 
How long do you need to leave it powered down for it to recover? Thinking it may be worth waiting until distortion starts getting bad and then power down and short the pins together of the DC blocking caps that are in the signal chain to dissipate any charge and then power up and see if it clears the distortion for a while, if it does then it would imply that the caps are charging and offsetting the signal.
 
How long do you need to leave it powered down for it to recover? Thinking it may be worth waiting until distortion starts getting bad and then power down and short the pins together of the DC blocking caps that are in the signal chain to dissipate any charge and then power up and see if it clears the distortion for a while, if it does then it would imply that the caps are charging and offsetting the signal.

Hello. I need about 2~3 seconds. Almost instantly... Any suggest?
 
Hello. I need about 2~3 seconds. Almost instantly... Any suggest?

Slow for distortion to rise but dissipates fast after switch off, odd one, first I would try what CyberPit suggests, do you have a scope? If not then soundcard and Room Eq Wizard's scope signal generator or an old pair of cheap earbuds with a 10K+ resistor in series can be used to follow the signal path.
 
Slow for distortion to rise but dissipates fast after switch off, odd one, first I would try what CyberPit suggests, do you have a scope? If not then soundcard and Room Eq Wizard's scope signal generator or an old pair of cheap earbuds with a 10K+ resistor in series can be used to follow the signal path.

Thank you too man... I saw many problems on my design after your tips.

You asked me at the beginning if my dc blocking caps had path to ground, but i hadn't thought about AD, but DA. My bad
 
YOU ROCK!!!!!!!! The second tip solved my problem... Many months of headache... Maybe 4 or 5 months searching wtf happened in my design.

CyberPit, can you explain to me why this happened? And why after putting 100k on GND did it work?
Hi icarovps,
Congratulations! :cheers:
The U3B operating point will follow the non-inverted input voltage. If there's no tie-down resistor, that will follow the Op-amp's input offset conditions. It will drift a bit some temperatures, supply voltages or leak current of DC-blocking Caps. Biasing input terminal fixes operating point stays stable GND voltage forever.


CyberPit
 
Hi icarovps,
Congratulations! :cheers:
The U3B operating point will follow the non-inverted input voltage. If there's no tie-down resistor, that will follow the Op-amp's input offset conditions. It will drift a bit some temperatures, supply voltages or leak current of DC-blocking Caps. Biasing input terminal fixes operating point stays stable GND voltage forever.


I looked and saw that are several non-inverter configurations. One of them is mine, but there is one that left me with doubts...

My configuration is with symmetric source (+/- 15v). However, I saw that the non-inverting configuration I am using should be for simple sources (just +15v), because of capacitor C3 (C36 on my board).

Should I remove it? Or swap? What can he do badly on my circuit?
 

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Hi icarovps,
My configuration is with symmetric source (+/- 15v). However, I saw that the non-inverting configuration I am using should be for simple sources (just +15v), because of capacitor C3 (C36 on my board).


Should I remove it? Or swap? What can he do badly on my circuit?
Your suggested circuit will amplify the noise contained in positive power rail. So I like to do this way.
fig2.gif



BTW, In your design case, my suggestions are ...

  • Replace C27 with jumper wire.
  • Change C36 Polar-Ele-Cap to Non-polarity or Bi-Polarity Ele-Cap .
Please remember rotating following caps...

  • C24
  • C39
  • C48
  • C58
  • C67
Following caps will be undefined the right directions..

  • C11
  • C47
  • C56
  • C66
Easiest way to define the polarity of of Ele-Caps is measure the each voltage with multi-meter(DC-range):D


If you want to change the design to the single power supply, maybe my FreeDSP Classic SMD A/B (plus-2) design will help you some...


CyberPit
 
Hi icarovps,

Your suggested circuit will amplify the noise contained in positive power rail. So I like to do this way.



BTW, In your design case, my suggestions are ...

  • Replace C27 with jumper wire.
  • Change C36 Polar-Ele-Cap to Non-polarity or Bi-Polarity Ele-Cap .
Please remember rotating following caps...

  • C24
  • C39
  • C48
  • C58
  • C67
Following caps will be undefined the right directions..

  • C11
  • C47
  • C56
  • C66
Easiest way to define the polarity of of Ele-Caps is measure the each voltage with multi-meter(DC-range):D


If you want to change the design to the single power supply, maybe my FreeDSP Classic SMD A/B (plus-2) design will help you some...


CyberPit


Perfect! I already rotated the caps... This was the first thing I did. I'll check and define the polarity of the DAC caps...

One more (and last, I swear) thing ... (I'm so excited because my circuit worked that I can't stop)

I'll work in a second version of this circuit, but I think with symmetric source is more easy and don't need a bias (I still find it complicated to work with bias)


The C36... 100uF is enough? Or too much? I tried calculate the equivalent resistance in the R32-R34-R33-R35 node to put in your formula to calculate the BW, for then calculate the capacitor, but I failed.

And the 100k resistor to GND (after C27), I can remove it, right?


Thanks for your patience... For real.
 
Hello again icarovps,
The C36... 100uF is enough? Or too much? I tried calculate the equivalent resistance in the R32-R34-R33-R35 node to put in your formula to calculate the BW, for then calculate the capacitor, but I failed.
The simulation result says 2.2uF for C36 is minimum. 10uF is more than enough, 100uF is too much.

And the 100k resistor to GND (after C27), I can remove it, right?
Yes, you can remove tie-down 100K resistor. It's not need anymore if you jump the C27.
 

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