Hello there,
I am interested to find a DAC / streamer solution in order to play the HDD stored Hi-Res music files.
At this point as far as I've read, I have 2 choices: To buy a factory built DAC /Streamer OR to build one using a NUC + DAC for example. Both of these solutions will be controlled using a mobile/tablet (an app is required).
In this budget - approx 500 Euros - I've found Onkyo NS-6170 which is pretty much what I need, reading the main technical specs like: Dual-Differential AKM 768 kHz/32-bit AK4490 DACs for Left and Right Channels, Supports Hi-Res Audio Playback DSD (DSF/DIFF) to 11.2 MHz; FLAC, WAV, Apple Lossless, and AIFF to 192 kHz/24-bit, USB Type-A Inputs (Front and Rear) for Audio Playback via Mass-Storage Class HDDs with Easy Music Selection via Onkyo Controller App for iOS1 and Android , Chromecast built-in, Wi-Fi, AirPlay, and Spotify and so on.
On the other hand I could build a NUC / DAC system (not made the research yet but there are some options available) which I suppose could give me more flexibility, ...I guess.
Here is my concern, choosing the NS-6170, I am still able to install on the tablet/pair with this receiver, apps other than Onkyo Controller App (like Daphile for example) having the Chromecast(?) or the Wifi support or ... Any downside in choosing this factory built solution?
Actually, I'm not so sure what are the limitations in both cases in order to properly approach and have the right decision.
Thank you,
I am interested to find a DAC / streamer solution in order to play the HDD stored Hi-Res music files.
At this point as far as I've read, I have 2 choices: To buy a factory built DAC /Streamer OR to build one using a NUC + DAC for example. Both of these solutions will be controlled using a mobile/tablet (an app is required).
In this budget - approx 500 Euros - I've found Onkyo NS-6170 which is pretty much what I need, reading the main technical specs like: Dual-Differential AKM 768 kHz/32-bit AK4490 DACs for Left and Right Channels, Supports Hi-Res Audio Playback DSD (DSF/DIFF) to 11.2 MHz; FLAC, WAV, Apple Lossless, and AIFF to 192 kHz/24-bit, USB Type-A Inputs (Front and Rear) for Audio Playback via Mass-Storage Class HDDs with Easy Music Selection via Onkyo Controller App for iOS1 and Android , Chromecast built-in, Wi-Fi, AirPlay, and Spotify and so on.
On the other hand I could build a NUC / DAC system (not made the research yet but there are some options available) which I suppose could give me more flexibility, ...I guess.
Here is my concern, choosing the NS-6170, I am still able to install on the tablet/pair with this receiver, apps other than Onkyo Controller App (like Daphile for example) having the Chromecast(?) or the Wifi support or ... Any downside in choosing this factory built solution?
Actually, I'm not so sure what are the limitations in both cases in order to properly approach and have the right decision.
Thank you,
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Allo is working on getting Katana dac out pretty soon. It is a new dac for RPi music players. I have listened to some prototypes and should have one here a again pretty soon. They are supposed to go for around $250 base price. Allo is targeting have Katana be the best ES9038Q2M dac on the market, and to compete with $1,000 dacs.
If you want to DIY instead of buy, over in the ES9038Q2M Board thread we are modding some cheap junk $39 Chinese dacs that so far we know how to make sound about the same or a little better than a Katana 1.1 prototype. The modded dacs can accept most types of inputs, coax, optical, USB, I2S, and play PCM/DoP/DSD and sample rates the same Onkyo. One could be driven from a small computer is there is an old one around somewhere.
Maybe the most important thing to know about dacs is the specs don't mean much in most cases, and bullet points like dual dacs don't either. Implementation is what counts, and most cut corners despite whatever the advertising says. Having said that, I think it would be accurate to say we could beat the Onkyo specs without too much trouble, if that's what matters to someone.
If you want to DIY instead of buy, over in the ES9038Q2M Board thread we are modding some cheap junk $39 Chinese dacs that so far we know how to make sound about the same or a little better than a Katana 1.1 prototype. The modded dacs can accept most types of inputs, coax, optical, USB, I2S, and play PCM/DoP/DSD and sample rates the same Onkyo. One could be driven from a small computer is there is an old one around somewhere.
Maybe the most important thing to know about dacs is the specs don't mean much in most cases, and bullet points like dual dacs don't either. Implementation is what counts, and most cut corners despite whatever the advertising says. Having said that, I think it would be accurate to say we could beat the Onkyo specs without too much trouble, if that's what matters to someone.
I have a NUC with the j4005 CPU and a Meridian Explorer 2 dac. I bought a 2tb drive and use it in the NUC and for streaming to other devices rather than a separate NAS. I had to upgrade to Windows pro vs the crappy Home version that came preinstalled so I can remote in on my iPad. So I have no monitor attached to the NUC and just use RD Client from my iPad.
The nice thing is that I was able to use REW to do some room correction and filtering and can run Equallizer APO in the background and play high res files no problem (DAC doesn’t support DSD). I think it sounds really good but I’ve never heard a fancy DAC.
The downside is that there is noise that comes through the NUC and the DAC but even with volume at full blast, it’s not noticeable unless you really try hard. You can hear the CPU start working through the speakers so it’s not perfect but acceptable for me because I prefer to have control over the system (software, files, etc), components (swap hard drive or DAC) vs. having some noise through the NUC from the PSU.
The nice thing is that I was able to use REW to do some room correction and filtering and can run Equallizer APO in the background and play high res files no problem (DAC doesn’t support DSD). I think it sounds really good but I’ve never heard a fancy DAC.
The downside is that there is noise that comes through the NUC and the DAC but even with volume at full blast, it’s not noticeable unless you really try hard. You can hear the CPU start working through the speakers so it’s not perfect but acceptable for me because I prefer to have control over the system (software, files, etc), components (swap hard drive or DAC) vs. having some noise through the NUC from the PSU.
A new generation of laptops utilise CPU's that require a very small amount of voltage to work. Furthermore, the RAM is soldered to the motherboard - there are no sockets to insert the RAM sticks into / pins to affect impedance between voltage rails' decoupling capacitors and IC's Vcc/Vee pins. These motherboards are "better equipped" of providing a very low noise environment for digital sound reproduction
I'd also suggest locking the FSB to absolute minimum frequency possible. This will further reduce the amount of noise that circulates the motherboard. Few barebone OS's require only a handful of background application to run, which also helps.
Ground Isolation between laptop (PC) and the DAC USB transceiver chip (input chip) is important and it should be done right at the input into DAC.
As for DAC's.... you can build your own, or try to get one of these:
Roland Super UA Interface review | MusicRadar
I also suggest a separate 10V DC power supply, followed by 4 X LT3045 in parallel, set for 9V DC; these (the regs) should go inside the DAC case...
The above will sound very good.
If you want to stick with Windows, Dell laptops will automatically lock the FSB to absolute minimum value possible if they are connected to a "third party" (non-DELL) power supply
... which is kind-of criminal, but ideal for digital sound playback.
I'd also suggest locking the FSB to absolute minimum frequency possible. This will further reduce the amount of noise that circulates the motherboard. Few barebone OS's require only a handful of background application to run, which also helps.
Ground Isolation between laptop (PC) and the DAC USB transceiver chip (input chip) is important and it should be done right at the input into DAC.
As for DAC's.... you can build your own, or try to get one of these:
Roland Super UA Interface review | MusicRadar
I also suggest a separate 10V DC power supply, followed by 4 X LT3045 in parallel, set for 9V DC; these (the regs) should go inside the DAC case...
The above will sound very good.
If you want to stick with Windows, Dell laptops will automatically lock the FSB to absolute minimum value possible if they are connected to a "third party" (non-DELL) power supply
... which is kind-of criminal, but ideal for digital sound playback.- Status
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