Good question.
I was thinking of powering it directly into the 3.3v rail which in pins 17 & 19.
I would think if you power it from either the 5v spot you marked or pins 17 & 19 you would need to disconnect the 5v input from the USB socket first or you will damage the F1. The F1 is supposed to be fully compatible with the Amanero & in my DAC I power the Amanero via pins 17 & 19 + disconnect the 5v in on the USB socket & that works well.
I was thinking of powering it directly into the 3.3v rail which in pins 17 & 19.
I would think if you power it from either the 5v spot you marked or pins 17 & 19 you would need to disconnect the 5v input from the USB socket first or you will damage the F1. The F1 is supposed to be fully compatible with the Amanero & in my DAC I power the Amanero via pins 17 & 19 + disconnect the 5v in on the USB socket & that works well.
Hi man.
I Read on headfi.org.
You should remove The rectangular thing from The board to power The Second part of The board..(rectangular BIG thing that connected between isolated sides of The board).
I also have The board.maybe best point to power it..
Correct - I actually contacted Singxer & that is what they advised. Remove the DC to DC converter (rectangular black box bridging the isolation area) & then it is fine to feed in 5v to the area marked (red circle)
I also tried feeding in 3.3v via the correct pin on the header but that did not work.
I also tried feeding in 3.3v via the correct pin on the header but that did not work.
I am Planning to power it with lt3045 regulator and battery.
Did you try to use usb y Cable and powering all board with clean 5v?
I couldn't decide between them.
Probably after removed The rectangular box , Using 3.3v won't work,because Second part also need 5v..
People Using 3.3v just powering The clocks..
The LT3045 are very nice regulators & sound good too.
I did not try runing the whole board on clean power but that certainly is a good idea.
My 3.3v only problem - ah that makes sense that the 3.3v is for the clocks & others parts still need 5v. I was trying to use the F1 in place of a Amanero board & just wanted to use the 20 pin header connections. The sample rate flag pins (f0 to f3) are configured different to the Amanero as well so the F1 will not work as a drop in replacement - shame about that!
I did not try runing the whole board on clean power but that certainly is a good idea.
My 3.3v only problem - ah that makes sense that the 3.3v is for the clocks & others parts still need 5v. I was trying to use the F1 in place of a Amanero board & just wanted to use the 20 pin header connections. The sample rate flag pins (f0 to f3) are configured different to the Amanero as well so the F1 will not work as a drop in replacement - shame about that!
Awesome!
Great info - thanks very much.
Actually I'm now thinking about designing my own USB to I2S unit based on a Xmos UX208 chip. That way I can have nice clean power with good local regs for both input & output sections. Anyway it might be best for me to start a separate thread on that as it is off topic here.
Great info - thanks very much.
Actually I'm now thinking about designing my own USB to I2S unit based on a Xmos UX208 chip. That way I can have nice clean power with good local regs for both input & output sections. Anyway it might be best for me to start a separate thread on that as it is off topic here.
When I connected to power supply,power light goes on.
Probably it will work..
I power the all Second part of the board.
I placed pin header to 5v-gnd holes.
I used ldovr LT3045-S 5v board.
I didn't like 2 things about this board:
I couldn't find a toggle Switch will fit onto board(maybe submimiature ones fits..)
Secondly I didn't like the orientation of V and GND of the input section..
(in my opinion it should be reverse).
That's it.
Probably it will work..
I power the all Second part of the board.
I placed pin header to 5v-gnd holes.
I used ldovr LT3045-S 5v board.
I didn't like 2 things about this board:
I couldn't find a toggle Switch will fit onto board(maybe submimiature ones fits..)
Secondly I didn't like the orientation of V and GND of the input section..
(in my opinion it should be reverse).
That's it.
Attachments
I am not sure that also.I think I have some grounding problem.
So The most essential is to power The clocks and output section with a clean power.(it is my idea). 😁
A very late update on this external 5V for Singxer F-1.
I successfully applied dedicated 5Vdc to both dirty side and clean side.
I used simple rectifier+filtering+LT3045 @5V output.
I did a diagram to indicate the solution.
The improvement is immediate.
The USB cable's 5V being cut off is a good trick.
Dirty side with clean 5V is surprisingly important.
I also add a 10,000uF/16V caps to each side.
Now music is more engaging and musical, bass is solid and details all around.
I successfully applied dedicated 5Vdc to both dirty side and clean side.
I used simple rectifier+filtering+LT3045 @5V output.
I did a diagram to indicate the solution.
The improvement is immediate.
The USB cable's 5V being cut off is a good trick.
Dirty side with clean 5V is surprisingly important.
I also add a 10,000uF/16V caps to each side.
Now music is more engaging and musical, bass is solid and details all around.
Attachments
Hi friends
I have seen this old post
I wish to add usb to spdif to my dac
I was thinking to buy this card and install it inside my dac.
I have understand that use this card with linear power supply can upgrade it sound a lot so I have 2 questions.
1. I have seen this card sold in a lots of websites including aliexpress
Are they all genuine with genuine parts ?
2. Since I don't have the schematic yet
I have seen that when connecting the card to external linear power supply the DC--DC converter should be removed and the L1 inductor should be removed as well.
However in this card there is L2 inductor
What it used for ? Should it be removed as well ?
Best regards to all of you
Nehoray
I have seen this old post
I wish to add usb to spdif to my dac
I was thinking to buy this card and install it inside my dac.
I have understand that use this card with linear power supply can upgrade it sound a lot so I have 2 questions.
1. I have seen this card sold in a lots of websites including aliexpress
Are they all genuine with genuine parts ?
2. Since I don't have the schematic yet
I have seen that when connecting the card to external linear power supply the DC--DC converter should be removed and the L1 inductor should be removed as well.
However in this card there is L2 inductor
What it used for ? Should it be removed as well ?
Best regards to all of you
Nehoray