Most likely because you can actually get a datasheet for the ES9018 and the ES9023.
The 9038PRO is better, but requires to sign an NDA to get the datasheet. The 9038 is also crazy expensive considering the small amount of increased (audible) performance vs AK4493.
If you really wanna pay 75 bucks for a DAC chip, you might as well get the 4499. It has similar performance but doesn't require the NDA ******** from ESS.
The 9038PRO is better, but requires to sign an NDA to get the datasheet. The 9038 is also crazy expensive considering the small amount of increased (audible) performance vs AK4493.
If you really wanna pay 75 bucks for a DAC chip, you might as well get the 4499. It has similar performance but doesn't require the NDA ******** from ESS.
This, and also the price ofcourse. I need to have other things in my audio chain to justify ES9038pro.
Also I had a look around the chips and I tried other configurations and it becomes a mess with 4x2ch chips. I'll stay with the AK4468. Just that I need to figure out the volume thing. There's dynamic range degradation from it.
I made a test and my amp needs 40mVrms at my usual listening level.
I had a look here:
Measurements of RME ADI-2 DAC and Headphone Amp | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
This is a DAC that uses the AK4493 chip which has 123dB dynamic range, and the implementation has also noise reduction and the dynamic range is still lower, and this tested the best in whole bunch of DACs tested (at 50mV input). Reading through the comments I found someone hearing hiss with ultra sensitive IEMs. Need to figure out the math as it might not matter, or the CS3318 volume control chip might add (1.7uV) what I would save anyway so being thereabouts might not matter in the end, and would save me the headaches of implementing that volume chip. It is nice, 8 channels and good specs, and the Arduino code for it is already online. But I have a really tight space to work on the pcb so I might go digital volume in the end.
I think using good AVCC and Vref would make for a really nice sounding DAC out of the AK4468. Again, considering the rest of my chain I don't think it's worth the trouble for something more expensive/complicated.
After looking at the specs, I personally think that we've already reached the point where you won't really notice anything "better". You might get flavors of sound between DACs, but not objectively better. The specs today are pretty good. You might notice differences if having ultra audio gear in the rest of the chain, I don't, so there's that possibility.
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You are right!
Please try the volume control of the AK4468. The DAC has an internal resolution of 32bit, so I don't think you have a noticable dinamic range reduction.
One question, the manufacturer AK couldn't answer it for me:
what is the main difference if I use or not the internal 1.8V LDO of the DAC? Does it worth to place an extra external 1.8V regulator? Sounds better?
I am surprised again and again how many Subbu DACs are still in use (having only SPDIF).
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If I were a millionaire of money and time, 2x4499 were not a problem. For a poor hobbist the AK4458 does his job very well...
Time is a very good point as well. Higher performance gear is generally much more difficult to develop. Mainly because powersupplies, EMC and clocking become more critical. This also tends to lead to more expensive designs.
Come to think of it. Didn't you develop your own shunt regulator? How does it compare to the LT3042?
I must be honest: my shunt is a copy of another product on the market, I do not say the name. It is functioning good, but I do not have a proper instrument to measure it. After simulation the PSRR is about 55db. That is not a large value considering the other IC regulators, but if you have a pre-reg (and you should have) this is not an issue. The noise performance didn't measured yet... In the simulator up to about 100kHz is pretty low, but is is very depending from the output capacitance.
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I think this depends on the quality/specs of the internal LDO. I see most upper range DAC implementations are using external power supplies for all possible rails. Might be worth it.
I'm very limited by the space on the board so I will see if I can use external or I use the internal one. I think I'll drop the volume control chip and that will allow me to pinch into the analog power supply space and make room for an extra supply for the 1.8VDC.
Still loving my Subbu days Jean Paul, a reliable little machine.
Cheers,
Paul
I'm almost finished with the analog part of the circuit. I'm trying to add LT3042 + aux passives to the VACC/Vref part of the DAC, with bypass smd jumpers to be able to use the lm317+dienoiser circuit directly. This way I can do some testing later on, maybe the LT3042 is not needed there. lm317 get mounted to the bottom of the case, this way there's no heating issues for the caps. Denoiser circuit sits on top. Hope I have enough room for the footprints without taking too much from the digital space.
I'll use CLC filtering on the input. Found some cheap/nice 6.8mH inductors, with up to 200mA or so, and around 12R resistance but I have plenty voltage to spare. Anywhere between 12-15V output for opamps is good.
Digital side will also have CLC but need to figure out the total current so I can correctly size all parts. I'll use LT3042/5 for that for sure. Seems like it's recommended for cleaning the DC/DC convertor. I'll use a second LC filter after it, then LT3042/5 mounted at the correct distance.
I'm yet to start on the digital part anyway, just need to finish with analog. Dropped the digital volume pot, and also I dropped the arduino footprint. I'll just harvest the atmega cpu and use that and oscillator. More space and package is no issue to solder.
I can also bypass the 5V->3.3V linear reg on the DSP shield, so I'll feed 3.3V clean directly. Atmega will get a regular 3.3V linear reg, and I'll isolate the in/out of the atmega to the dsp/dac.
I'll use CLC filtering on the input. Found some cheap/nice 6.8mH inductors, with up to 200mA or so, and around 12R resistance but I have plenty voltage to spare. Anywhere between 12-15V output for opamps is good.
Digital side will also have CLC but need to figure out the total current so I can correctly size all parts. I'll use LT3042/5 for that for sure. Seems like it's recommended for cleaning the DC/DC convertor. I'll use a second LC filter after it, then LT3042/5 mounted at the correct distance.
I'm yet to start on the digital part anyway, just need to finish with analog. Dropped the digital volume pot, and also I dropped the arduino footprint. I'll just harvest the atmega cpu and use that and oscillator. More space and package is no issue to solder.
I can also bypass the 5V->3.3V linear reg on the DSP shield, so I'll feed 3.3V clean directly. Atmega will get a regular 3.3V linear reg, and I'll isolate the in/out of the atmega to the dsp/dac.
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Hi Paul, that is good to hear. Obviously I am biased (not really) but:
It is not complicated, it's cheap, small, easy to build, no choices to make which opamp to use, has an excellent PSU, requires no choices to make for operation except flipping the power switch, does not require a computer or programming and still gets the job done and that with quite good performance even today
I don't use one myself but hear them regularly here and there as they are like mosquitos. Lacks USB or more inputs..."lowest ESS Sabre DAC chip" yes I have heard them all more than once.
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