Hey there, newbie here,
I just purchased this DAC
https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/
and there is a review that talk about replacing the caps and other components
https://www.amazon.com/gp/review/R35R4CCF7WPMGP?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl
Unfortunately the reviewer has not mentioned any specific values or other specific components he used.
A few questions:
1. Has anyone else modified this DAC? I believe it is just a generic PCM2704 DAC.
2. I'd like to select replacement components, how would I select the correct type of capacitor. Will any capacitor work as long as the values match? I have read about different types of caps but not sure if all will work in audio applications.
I am coming from a software background having soldered many modchips when I was younger so I am still a beginner when it comes to understand core electronics and HI End audio.
It sounds really nice out of the box, but I wanted to see if I can hear the amazing sound this reviewer claims to hear.
I just purchased this DAC
https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/
and there is a review that talk about replacing the caps and other components
https://www.amazon.com/gp/review/R35R4CCF7WPMGP?ref_=glimp_1rv_cl
Unfortunately the reviewer has not mentioned any specific values or other specific components he used.
A few questions:
1. Has anyone else modified this DAC? I believe it is just a generic PCM2704 DAC.
2. I'd like to select replacement components, how would I select the correct type of capacitor. Will any capacitor work as long as the values match? I have read about different types of caps but not sure if all will work in audio applications.
I am coming from a software background having soldered many modchips when I was younger so I am still a beginner when it comes to understand core electronics and HI End audio.
It sounds really nice out of the box, but I wanted to see if I can hear the amazing sound this reviewer claims to hear.
If "any" cap is fine, then the actual stuffed are fine as well.
Caps used: "Elna Silmic II's, Nichicon Fine Gold, and Nichicon BP'"
Which are brown/gold/green.
Hopefully he didn't used knockoffs from China.
Is your board equipped the same as on his pictures (before mod)? Changing the ceramics in the signal path "might" alter/"improve" the sound. To be sure, you'd need to buy a second DAC to have a reference for the modded one.
(Btw. wrong forum, the belongs to "Digital Line Level". Please ask a moderator to move he thread)
Caps used: "Elna Silmic II's, Nichicon Fine Gold, and Nichicon BP'"
Which are brown/gold/green.
Hopefully he didn't used knockoffs from China.
Is your board equipped the same as on his pictures (before mod)? Changing the ceramics in the signal path "might" alter/"improve" the sound. To be sure, you'd need to buy a second DAC to have a reference for the modded one.(Btw. wrong forum, the belongs to "Digital Line Level". Please ask a moderator to move he thread)
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If "any" cap is fine, then the actual stuffed are fine as well.
Caps used: "Elna Silmic II's, Nichicon Fine Gold, and Nichicon BP'"
Which are brown/gold/green.
Hopefully he didn't used knockoffs from China.
(Btw. wrong forum, the belongs to "Digital Line Level". Please ask a moderator to move he thread)
Hey Doctormod,
Thanks for your reply!
I opened up the DAC and it seems to look identical apart from the PCB being red instead of blue and the resistors are blue instead of tan. Do Blue colored resistors signify anything?
Here are some pics: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
So I am going to buy equivalent Elna Silmic II's, Nichicon Fine Gold, and Nichicon BP caps from mouser (hopefully no knockoffs at mouser) and see what happens.
There is a very minor amount of hiss currently and I'll see if that disappears. That will be my baseline if there is any change at all. Most likely I am probably getting the best sound that I will notice out of this already since I have never listened to a real high end amp and am using Xiaomi Piston 3 earbuds.
At the very least it will be a fun experiment.
Quick follow up questions:
All the non ceramic capacitors are "Thenxing" branded 16V 100uF caps. I can order identical values of a better brand.
What about ceramic caps? I noticed he only replaced six of them. They all read 105. (There are others that read 104 and 103 but he left those)
What does 105 mean? What equivalent voltage and capacitance are those? A quick google seems to suggest 1uF but not sure.
Also is there an easy way to check polarity by just looking at these caps? No stripe on these.
Finally, sorry about posting in the wrong forum. Any mod here willing to most the post to the correct forum? Thanks!
Hey, you can search and look up those capacitor codes on the web, and as far as a replacement goes, I would suggest some sims fkp2 from mouser as well.
You may gain some improvement from using a transformer type of power supply also. Maybe you could find one on eBay used perhaps.
Or just use it as what it is, but it could be a great learning experience regarding the effects of swapping those parts.
You may gain some improvement from using a transformer type of power supply also. Maybe you could find one on eBay used perhaps.
Or just use it as what it is, but it could be a great learning experience regarding the effects of swapping those parts.
Yes it seems like 105 is 1uF but I can't find the voltage anywhere. I need to know the voltage because the replacements come in many voltages.
Most of those pins will have 5v max on them, around the ic's anyways, so the 63v versions of whatever film caps are available would work fine. I didn't think the Wima were available in less than 63v.
The smaller caps could be of a smaller value than the 1uf if changed for film type.
Typical decoupling would be .1 uf to .01uf.
I would guess that the larger ceramic caps were chosen with the understanding that this type will be de-rated in application.
The smaller caps could be of a smaller value than the 1uf if changed for film type.
Typical decoupling would be .1 uf to .01uf.
I would guess that the larger ceramic caps were chosen with the understanding that this type will be de-rated in application.
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Moving to the appropriate forum which is Digital Line Level.Don't start out in audio by believing all the myths. Change components if they are faulty or unreliable. If the sound is wrong change the circuit, to a better circuit. If the sound is fine, why change anything? Would you change your car or your house just because someone you have never met (and know nothing about told) you to?
You need to understand that most component 'upgrades' do nothing, some may make a minor improvement (if the original circuit used poor quality or inappropriate items), while some may cause significant degradation (if the new component, however expensive, is in fact inferior). You don't start on "a long road of learning" by swallowing myths. For many DIYers, component 'upgrades' are done simply because they don't know enough to do anything useful but at least they have learned how to solder (and de-solder); when all you have is a hammer, all problems look like a nail. Those who can't solder just swap cables - an even bigger waste of time.
Why not start your long road by doing some real learning? Not about components, but about circuits.
Why not start your long road by doing some real learning? Not about components, but about circuits.
+1
Only change something if there is reasonable evidence and feedback from others that the change is of benefit.
The HIFI press have a lot to answer for when it come to cables and sound quality. It beggars belief that paying £60 for a fancy AC mains lead (eg teflon insulated, silver plated, screened cable) produces an audible benefit.
Its the old story ' more money than sense'.
While you are being right about circuits being most important it is also now quite normal that inferior parts were used as these were cheapest. Also fake parts are used. Especially electrolytic caps are often garbage. So changing parts is not a waste of time with cheap Ebay and Aliexpress stuff. You could debate if it is not wiser and cheaper to buy a A branded device straight away
I think most of us have replaced caps for better quality (like MKS for MKP) and noticed a difference. Also changing opamps can make a difference when chosen wisely. You are not in the camp "parts and cables don't make a difference" do you ? If so I dare to say "every amplifier that measures the same sounds the same"
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MKS and MKP are different dielectrics, so the issue is not quality but appropriateness for the application (coupling, decoupling, filter?). I am unconvinced about opamp rolling, unless the original opamp was inappropriate or so old that modern ones have lower noise. It is easy to make a circuit sound different by swapping parts, but harder to actually improve the performance.jean-paul said:
Parts (if appropriate) make little difference. Cables (unless faulty, such as many DIY cables and some high-end cable) make no difference to well-engineered equipment; cable fussiness is a sign of poor equipment design.
Amplifiers which measure the same (including frequency response and output impedance) appear to be indistinguishable when used unsighted below clipping. I have not done the experiments myself, but others have. I have no reason at present to doubt these results.
I guess that makes me guilty as charged.
Hi I think I was 12 or 13 when I discovered film caps sounded different. MKP had a better sound character than MKS and MKC. I replaced electrolytic caps for MKT and found them to sound better. I replaced noisy opamps for better ones with JFET inputs in gear. Could be noticed by anyone that was there....
Parts do make a difference and this can be checked in a few minutes. I guess you just skipped this and don't want to try it out.
Parts do make a difference and this can be checked in a few minutes. I guess you just skipped this and don't want to try it out.
You were obviously an early starter. At 12 or 13 I was still learning Ohm's Law and other physics relating to electronics. Some people try to skip this.
Using the wrong parts can certainly make a difference. Swapping one appropriate part for another appropriate part can usually only be heard when the listener knows that a swap has taken place.
Using the wrong parts can certainly make a difference. Swapping one appropriate part for another appropriate part can usually only be heard when the listener knows that a swap has taken place.
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