Signalyst DSC1

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ppy

ppy

Member
Joined 2015
puredsd.ru
R

randytsuch

Member
Joined 2003
randytsuch-audio.blogspot.com/2005/10/my-system.html
G

gionag

Member
Joined 2007
randytsuch said:
Wondering for guys who hand assembled the DSC2 cards, did you use a solder iron, solder paste and a hot air gun, solder paste and a controlled oven, or some other means?

I don't have a hot air gun. I'm trying to get the parts for an oven, but that may take a while. Could use this as an excuse to get a hot air gun lol.

I was looking at the pwb, and while I'm pretty sure I can hand solder, not sure if I want to spend that much time soldering.
Seems like using solder paste will be faster, but never tried it.
Click to expand...

mine and ones i made for others was prepped with a stencil(and solder paste) and then reflown in a pid controlled oven.

I still offer the "assembly" of the DSC2 as-a-service for who want to listen to this jewel but is not willing to equip properly for such a delicate job.

I still have PCB's left as well as a suspected-original NXP shift register ( :D ).

btw... is an amazing device. i can't really listen to anything else. Not sure about the reclock/isolation section... as i have never listed to the 2.5.2 nor the 2.6.2... but i guess they are great as well as the "2".
 
koldby

koldby

Member
Joined 2003
randytsuch said:
Wondering for guys who hand assembled the DSC2 cards, did you use a solder iron, solder paste and a hot air gun, solder paste and a controlled oven, or some other means?

I don't have a hot air gun. I'm trying to get the parts for an oven, but that may take a while. Could use this as an excuse to get a hot air gun lol.

I was looking at the pwb, and while I'm pretty sure I can hand solder, not sure if I want to spend that much time soldering.
Seems like using solder paste will be faster, but never tried it.
Click to expand...
Well for my DCS2, I partly did the job with solder paste and hot air and hand solder. I am a absolute novice (and an old shaky guy) dealing with solder paste and hot air gun, so I had to do a lot of error correcting on the assembled board after finishing it. I have a lot of experience in trouble shooting and measuring, so I was able to correct all of the solder defects I made, but it is not an easy job, if you have limited experience in soldering SMD or have limited experience in trouble shooting circuits.
 
ppy

ppy

Member
Joined 2015
puredsd.ru
Another DC problem may be a damaged TS5A3167DBVR key. They are very sensitive to static electricity. If you often changed transformers, then this IC could break through. There were two cases where replacing these chips solved the DC problem.
 

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nautibuoy

nautibuoy

Member
Joined 2010
I'm fortunate in having a friend with a reflow oven and he does an excellent job for me with more complex smd boards. I have also done some assembly with a hot air rework station.

With both an oven and a hot air station using a stencil to apply the solder paste facilitates a much better job and should avoid having to do remedial work because of solder bridges and the like. You can get reasonably priced solder stencils from PCB fabricators like JLCPCB.
 
koldby

koldby

Member
Joined 2003
nautibuoy said:
I'm fortunate in having a friend with a reflow oven and he does an excellent job for me with more complex smd boards. I have also done some assembly with a hot air rework station.

With both an oven and a hot air station using a stencil to apply the solder paste facilitates a much better job and should avoid having to do remedial work because of solder bridges and the like. You can get reasonably priced solder stencils from PCB fabricators like JLCPCB.
Click to expand...
I agree, with a board like the DCS2 with so many smd components, it will be the best solution to go the stencil and oven way. A lot of trails and tribulations will be avoided then.
 
R

randytsuch

Member
Joined 2003
randytsuch-audio.blogspot.com/2005/10/my-system.html
Thanks for the advice guys
I've done a fair amount of surface mount work, been able to solder some fine pitch ic's without bridges or other problems.
Most of the parts on the dsc2 don't look bad, its just there are a lot of them and really close together in some places.

I'm sure a stencil will help, but I think I going to cheap out and try it buy hand applying the paste. I watched a couple youtube videos and I think I can handle it. Maybe do the resistor boards first for "practice". Since this is a hobby, I can spend time on it but have a limited hobby budget.

The parts with the ground pads under the part would worry me, but I'm not planning to use them, will generate a really clean 5V using ultracaps instead.
 
koldby

koldby

Member
Joined 2003
Hi all
First my DSC2 is now the best I have heard after I changed my PS to LifePo4 batteri supply for the board and also for the amanero USB interface. Beware the DSC2 is a power hungry beast :p

Next.
Can we use this instead of the amanero?:
DIYINHK XMOS Multichannel 32ch USB to/from I2S/DSD SPDIF Interface | Dimdim's Blog

I really want a multichannel solution (at least 4 channel) so I can use audiolense to do the x-over filter for my line arrays to the subs I am planning...
 
S

Signalyst

Member
Joined 2014
signalyst.com
koldby said:
This was much better sound wise and noise wise than with any other F-F I tried and I wonder if Pavels experiment with a DSC1 made with F-F (Signalyst DSC1 post #577) could be a winner, if 74AUC1G74 was used instead. IMHO the reason AUC1G is performing so well is that rise and fall times are almost equal and q and q bar is also very equal.
Click to expand...

The NXP AHCT595's I'm using in the original DSC1 design have very nice characteristics (running from 5V PSU).

Any of 3.3V parts I've seen have horribly bad timing performance.

Maybe due to gate capacitances being less issue at higher voltages/current drives?
 
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