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A NOS 192/24 DAC with the PCM1794 (and WaveIO USB input)
A NOS 192/24 DAC with the PCM1794 (and WaveIO USB input)
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Old 7th June 2014, 08:38 AM   #1971
dwjames is offline dwjames  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stijn001 View Post
A NOS 192/24 DAC with the PCM1794 (and WaveIO USB input)


In an attempt to understand what Rick and Supersurfer are discussing, I drew up this picture. Is this what is being proposed?

Any comments?
I think you can remove 2 more of the electrolytics. The lowest 2 can stay, but the 2 above those shouldn't be needed as I understand.





Quote:
Originally Posted by rickmcinnis View Post
When using the regs this way it is simple enough to place a wire across the small pads of the removed original regulators completing the circuit.

These are easy to remove for those who have not yet attempted. Just be patient.
Do you mean a wire jumper across the in+out pads for the original regulator? Surely that will put full v+ direct to the DAC. Removing the caps won't break the circuit as they're all for decoupling.

Also, maybe I lack patience, but I certainly didn't find it easy removing the old regs from the board, but my board was already fully populated at that point. Removing them from a bare board would be much easier.
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Old 7th June 2014, 09:16 AM   #1972
Supersurfer is offline Supersurfer  Netherlands
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Hi,

Attached is the layout I will build, shunts not mounted because they are still running in my other dac.
The two holes of R1 and R3 are a good spot to connect the B+ through to the other boards.

You need to cut the traces going to the pin of c28/30 and mount the output of the shunt on this spot. In this way you can solder in some local oscon upstream of the digital shunts.
The green connecters are for putting in analog power, no need to connect ground if you have the grounds from digital and analog connected in the raw power supply.
I will use three silmics of 100uf and after the 10r resistor 47uf; these different values will make a nicer sound balance.
The three wimas on the analog dac pins are needed but I want to experiment with different types because they have a clearly audible effect and need to be tuned for best sound balance.

I am now still waiting for the last parts to arrive (and will be at Pinkpop this weekend) so no soldering this weekend


Regards,
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Old 7th June 2014, 09:17 AM   #1973
Supersurfer is offline Supersurfer  Netherlands
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Another picture where you can see the wire bridges more clearly
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Old 7th June 2014, 10:34 AM   #1974
zz1969 is offline zz1969  Russian Federation
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I believe you are buying just boards, without caps and other stuff. Otherwise it's ouch prisewise. I wish I could buy just boards with DAC chips soldered. I wish Doede come up with a new board having in mind those who like shunts.

Last edited by zz1969; 7th June 2014 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 7th June 2014, 11:45 AM   #1975
Supersurfer is offline Supersurfer  Netherlands
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I bought them with caps, so if anyone is interested in a bunch of muze caps, please let me know

The caps are not the most expensive parts in the kit.
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Old 7th June 2014, 11:51 AM   #1976
dwjames is offline dwjames  United Kingdom
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Thanks Stefan. To be clear, do you plan to use 4 x salas shunts to power a 4 deck stack like this or still to stick with the 16 TentLabs shunts?
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Old 7th June 2014, 01:57 PM   #1977
Supersurfer is offline Supersurfer  Netherlands
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Hi James,

I will stick with the 16 shunts as it is the best option. If you are on a budget you can try to use them for more boards prallel but I guess you can use them on not more than two boards because the current draw will be to high. The shunts are also adjusted to the drawing current by Tentlabs. You need to consult them to check the max. Current draw.

Regards,

Last edited by Supersurfer; 7th June 2014 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 7th June 2014, 07:27 PM   #1978
rickmcinnis is offline rickmcinnis  United States
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Default Elegant input scheme for 8 volts regulator

Quote:
Originally Posted by Supersurfer View Post
Another picture where you can see the wire bridges more clearly
I could not decide how to handle that and I cannot think of anything better than your approach.

I assume you will bring raw supply for 3.3 v reg to the output pad of the removed regulator?

That seems like a rather large wire you are using. Is it something you have found to be really good?

With my mock up in progress I find I run out of space quickly. I will have to mount the regs on the front and the back of the PCB.

Take care,
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Old 7th June 2014, 07:32 PM   #1979
rickmcinnis is offline rickmcinnis  United States
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Default I see I did not look carefully

I thought the wire was going to the old 8 volts not the 3.3.

I will use this approach for the raw 8 V input but will go with separate raw supplies and have the input wire for the 3.3 go the output pad of the old regulator.
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Old 7th June 2014, 09:10 PM   #1980
thommy is offline thommy  United Kingdom
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Thanks to all of you guys for making this mod so clear with the sharing of diagrams, pictures etc.

I'm waiting for when I get the chance to dedicate some time to my 2 deck build with 4x sjostrom super regulators. I feel that it will offer the same performance as the shunts if not better, with a current capacity that would easily extend to 4 decks, if not 8.

Removal of the surface mounted local regulators on an unbuilt board is quite straightforward and I understand that it would be complicated to offer PCBs both with and without those however, I would like to support the idea of having the PCBs available without bundled components as, like Stefan, would prefer to choose my own passive components.
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