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#501 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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Hello Douwe, I'm interested how you got 3.3V with LifePo4-batteries: which brands of batteries, how many mA, which circuit for controlling charge/discharge you attached to them, which charger are you using, where you bought, etc.
Thanks for helping Roberto |
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#502 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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umm every lifepo4 battery ive used is 3.3v nominal as its normal voltage. at fully charged it will be 3.6 but this drops to 3.45 very quickly and spends the rest of its charge between 3.45 and 3.2 before falling off a cliff, which is where you should cut it anyway. so you dont really need a regulator as generally most parts will allow this much tolerance in the supply as long as its steady
A123 ANR26650A and the new updated ANR26650B is the best IMO but levinpower is supposed to be pretty much the same, dont buy from ebay its too risky. current you say? lol these things are insane, they will put out an extended pulse of 140A, but will run at 40A all day long. yes you read that right |
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#503 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Berlin
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@Lorien,
this is the "working area" and music comes out. ![]() More later ...... |
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#504 | ||
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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Quote:
Quote:
Kind regards, L |
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#505 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Berlin
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Hi,
thank you. Yes, i will do so when the final setup/case is ready. There are some things to do, like a own power supply for WaveIO (5v), changing to none isolated I2S, .... |
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#506 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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I was about to say the same thing; using such expensive high performance regulators and leaving long leads and a connector between them and the load will destroy all benefit of having them. I would get rid of the connector and hard wire them as well.
i was meaning to supply directly, couldnt he plug the batteries directly in? they are pretty much perfect voltage and most 3v3 compliant parts will allow +/-5% not for the faint hearted though as these things will literally melt themselves and the load if shorted and @ Lorien: I saw your reply, no problem about taking it to PM, i'm sorry i let it go on as long as I did. as for my application, i'll send you some info and pics privately rather than in the thread. Last edited by qusp; 25th March 2012 at 03:35 PM. |
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#507 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Westland
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Quote:
Why is this? I had the impression one would like optimum isolation between power domains. . as that is said to reduce jitter-induced distortion. The isolator behaves pretty well I understand. (there was a post on that). [That is why I would expect an isolator on the USB input, but that is just my rambling].
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#508 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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Thanks cusp for the info, the A123 is not easy to find in Europe but I have probably found an Internet store.
-Roberto Quote:
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#509 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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if they are selling to the public, then i would not trust them to be real. more likely grey market or flat out fakes as these are a highly sought after product and the company normally only sell to OEMs. i do know where to get legit new product though. where are you talking about? i dont want to post the company's info in public as i dont know whether they are acting within their agreement and i want to continue to be able to get them
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#510 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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They can be legally found (sometimes rebranded) in stores selling Radio Control products.
-Roberto Quote:
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