DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532

[pchw]

I will be ordering one of these today, and was wondering if there is a link to the post with suggested mods?

I started from this post. I am in the process of stripping down the assembled AK4396 board and assembling an AK4393 kit.

If you haven't purchased, buy the kit!! I already lifted a few pads due to the crazy amount solder used The AK4396 will be used for direct out, and the AK4393 will be with opamp. Still waiting for the parts to come.

 

[Sergelisses]

Hello I need some advices .

I would like to replace the CS8416 by a DIR 9001

If you look at the picture attached,i don't find how to connect the SMUTE ( Pin 8) and the DFSO ( Pin 9 ) with the DIR 9001 .

if you have an idea , let me know


Thanks

Serge

 

[carlmart]

The AK4396 will be used for direct out

Just curious: direct out how?

Have you already tried it?

 

[pchw]

Direct out might be the wrong terminology.
What I meant was to take the signal directly from the dac and feed that
into either a cap, or transformer, or nothing at all into the preamp.

There were some discussions in previous posts of various approaches. This is
just to satisfy my curiosity of how each approach will work out.

 

[erin]

Certainly try things for yourself as its the only way to learn, but I have a strong suspicion that this output stage from this earlier post is the way to go...http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...-kit-cs8416-ak4393-5532-a-96.html#post2816740

 

[erin]

I would like to replace the CS8416 by a DIR 9001

WM8805 is the only receiver worth "upgrading" to. IMO not worth mucking around with a DIR9001, although the DIR9001 is better than CS8414.

 

[Sergelisses]

Certainly try things for yourself as its the only way to learn, but I have a strong suspicion that this output stage from this earlier post is the way to go...http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...-kit-cs8416-ak4393-5532-a-96.html#post2816740

When this output stage is running correctly ,this solution is not so bad !!
Actually I have some problems , i have checked different power supply values ( +/- 15v , +/- 20v ) .......... and the stage is not stable

This output stage is followed by an Headphone amp ( WOO6 ) ,when the potentiometer of the WOO6 is on the left ( No sound ) the power supply values are very strange .I have not the good values less than the settings .

When the potentiometer of the WOO6 is on the right ( max sound ) the power supply values are good !!


Thanks for your advices

Serge

 

[erin]

Try putting a 1K resistor in series before the 1M gate stopper. Perhaps also try a 300 ohm on the output. Perhaps you are getting oscillation?

eg. DAC > 1K > Gate stopper > FET > FET > 300R > headphone amp

 

[Sergelisses]

Try putting a 1K resistor in series before the 1M gate stopper. Perhaps also try a 300 ohm on the output. Perhaps you are getting oscillation?

eg. DAC > 1K > Gate stopper > FET > FET > 300R > headphone amp

Thanks for your advices .With a 300 Ohm on the output it's stable .But no sound

The AK4396 is dead

The 5v on the AK =0 v .The power supply is good when i disconnect the 5v wire from the AK .I have 5v on the power supply .
.......I am a big STUPIDO

Serge

 

[F1 FAN]

The AK4396 is dead

The 5v on the AK =0 v .The power supply is good when i disconnect the 5v wire from the AK .I have 5v on the power supply .
.......I am a big STUPIDO

Serge

Check for a shorted capacitor or solder bridge in that 5volt line.

 

[Strosek]

Does anyone know how this DAC lightly modified would compare with a AD1865 DAC?

This actual DAC to be specific:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/quanghao-audio-design/171999-dac-ash-dac-end-2-up-date-5.html

Thanks

 

[erin]

AD1865 will be all over the AK4393. R2R DACs are better. But also more expensive and have larger boards. Depends what matters to you. Sound or price

 

[apoopoo999]

I was interested in the DAC END but Quanghao wanted $80 for just the bare pcbs. Price was kinda steep if you ask me.

 

[Strosek]

Dac end is an incredible Dac and I had a feeling it would be better then this one but I'll have fun seeing what I can get out of it anyway. I broke down and ordered one of these kits last night! After reading 100 pages of threads I feel like I've committed so much time reading that I have to build it

Quanghaos prices are steep but that being said the quality of the boards is good and they do sound fantastic. Building Dac end with the right parts: transformers,tubes caps, etc, does infect become a very expensive proposition.... But I don't regret it a bit!

 

[NebuK]

Hey,

nice discussion about this (seemingly nice) china DAC . I've just read it all through and i'm a little confused. I've just finished my PA100 LM3886 Gainclone and i'm so happy with the sound - so i want more, and hope this DAC could be a nice solution.

Anyways, it seems the primary seller linked here (along<some long number>) has closed its ebay shop until 01.30.12 ... It seems a few others are selling the same kit ("zoe_tsan" for example, i think he/she/it also sells other stuff which was nicely rated in this forum) - so first question would be: are those other sellers (zoe_tsan, HIFI SPOT) also safe? I mean - sure, with those hongkong thingies i'm never *totally* sure not to find a 100uF cap inside a 2200uF or the likes, but ... well ... did anyone try these sellers with success?

The next thing is - i've understood that i *totally* want to replace that horrible OpAmp and i want better (larger) buffering caps for the supply. My next question is - there seem to be bridge recitifiers onboard ... do i want to leave them there (maybe with totally oversized buffering? i do see LM7812/7912 and LM1117s ... so it should be okay if buffered enoguh? maybe?)? Or do i want a seperate, regulated, nicely buffered PSU and somehow intelligently get those rectifiers out and short the right pins? (sorry for asking so dumbly, but ... i'm so confused with the mass of information here. Offtopic, but ... would a wiki entry for this - much like the sureelectronics class-d amp mod wiki entry - be a idea?)

The last question would be about output buffering ... i'm not sure from the pics here and on the ebay sellers pages which caps are the output buffers or who may have replaced them here at all?!

Sorry for so many so dumb question ... i'd be really really glad if someone with a good overview over whats happening here would summarize all this a little :/.

Thanks for the great work so far! Regards
- NebuK

 

[ClaveFremen]

Anyways, it seems the primary seller linked here (along<some long number>)
...
did anyone try these sellers with success?

I've buyed from both Along and Zoe Tsang without problems.

The next thing is - i've understood that i *totally* want to replace that horrible OpAmp and i want better (larger) buffering caps for the supply.

Much more important are the filter caps around the opamp and correct values for the LPF filter if AK4396 is used.

My next question is - there seem to be bridge recitifiers onboard ... do i want to leave them there (maybe with totally oversized buffering?

If you decide to use my BOM it will sound good from the start, an alternate external power supply like Salas Shunt could go even further but only after you have optimized the rest, IMHO

 

[NebuK]

Hey,

thanks for replying to my question!

I've already found your BOM before, i've actually got another (probably dumb) question on it, so please bear with me.

Is that list a complete list of all parts needed for the kit? I mean - the kit already comes with (mostly low-quality?) parts, which of those *can* be used at all? Is there a diff between your list and whats included with the packet?

I fear i cannot follow the list 1:1, as shipping for rs- or mouser is ridiculous here in germany. I'd try to get as much as possible from the best national supplier, reichelt.de (maybe someone from germany built this kit according to fremens BOM ... please step up! ). I'd try to create a as-close-as-possible reichelt.de list for possible german builders, but ... well, i'd really like to know which of the shipped parts are useable and whether this is a complete or just "whats needed to make it sound nice" list.

Thank you so much again!
Regards
- NebuK

 

[ClaveFremen]

Hi NebuK,

thanks for replying to my question!

You're welcome

Is that list a complete list of all parts needed for the kit? I mean - the kit already comes with (mostly low-quality?) parts, which of those *can* be used at all? Is there a diff between your list and whats included with the packet?

The BOM is inteded as a part list to upgrade a complete kit, replacing critical components only.

I fear i cannot follow the list 1:1, as shipping for rs- or mouser is ridiculous here in germany.

You can find most of the parts from Distrelec (shipping8,27€, same as in Italy),

All other components can be ordered from PartsConnexion (shipping 9.5US$).

Regarding Mouser you can manage to do a little GB with other Germans and achieve the free shipping expense (75€)

well, i'd really like to know which of the shipped parts are useable and whether this is a complete or just "whats needed to make it sound nice" list.

Just start from regulators and LPF.

 

[NebuK]

Hey,

thanks for the information. I'm just putting together my shopping-carts on distrelec and checking partsconnection just as you said. Thank you again! .

Theres yet another thing i don't really understand. The OPA you linked is single channel ... and SOIC-8. As far as i can deduce from the PCB pictures the OPA is *after* analogization, right? So it'd assume a dual-channel OPA is needed. And The shown OPA is DIP-8, not SOIC ... or did i *again* overlook some post and you've built some adapter to use two dedicated 1-channel OPAs instead of a integrated 2-channel?

Thanks again! And ... please bear with my dumb questions . My map of this hellish huge post is really really bad .

Regards
- NebuK

 

[apoopoo999]

The shown OPA is DIP-8, not SOIC ... or did i *again* overlook some post and you've built some adapter to use two dedicated 1-channel OPAs instead of a integrated 2-channel?

Brown Dog

Single-to-dual Op-Amp Adapter (p/n 020302A)