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A 'how to' for High Gloss Finishing
A 'how to' for High Gloss Finishing
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Old 11th October 2011, 07:14 PM   #341
digits is offline digits
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a little automotive spot putty would take care of those little pits.
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Old 11th October 2011, 08:51 PM   #342
richie00boy is offline richie00boy  United Kingdom
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Ok sounds like we have found the problem.

You will need to rub it all back down to the primer (at least) and start again. If you try and paint over the enamel it may react.

Go to an automotive shop where you can buy aerosol sprays for painting cars, these are what you should be using.

And remember, you can't cover defects with paint, paint only makes them show up more. So make sure your prep is totally perfect.
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Old 12th October 2011, 12:41 AM   #343
OneManDIY is offline OneManDIY  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digits View Post
a little automotive spot putty would take care of those little pits.
i was using wood filler at some spots but it didnt work out quite well, its brittle and it doesn't sand well without taking off too much :/

automotive spot putty before priming?
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Old 12th October 2011, 12:48 AM   #344
OneManDIY is offline OneManDIY  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richie00boy View Post
Ok sounds like we have found the problem.

You will need to rub it all back down to the primer (at least) and start again. If you try and paint over the enamel it may react.

Go to an automotive shop where you can buy aerosol sprays for painting cars, these are what you should be using.

And remember, you can't cover defects with paint, paint only makes them show up more. So make sure your prep is totally perfect.
ughhh, that would be a nightmare, it was mad hard sanding down egg shell that i had :/

i am still not sure what spray paint i shold get.... the one i got seems pretty good but i shold have left it to cure for a week maybe.

I saw someone that rolled on the pain or used a paint brush.... I am thinking of doing that since I don't want to fumigate my garage once again and choke to death (with a mask).

biggest lesson learned is that i need to sand down really good before priming so than i dont sand trough the damn primer and have a smooth surface all around before color.

Second thing is to get the right spray paint or just let it sit for a couple of days or a week until cured properly than do my thing and remove the egg shell and polish.

I am really thinking about using a paintbrush next time so i dont have to deal with covering my whole garage with plastic and breathing fumes and stinking up the house. Lay a nice thick coat without running the paint might be a better alternative.
Also read I should thin the paint if using a brush.
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Old 17th November 2011, 05:16 AM   #345
OneManDIY is offline OneManDIY  United States
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Here is an update,
i finally was able to "cut and polish" the lamp again after stripping it and repainting with the same Rulstoleum Multi Purpose Spray paint and using MeGuairs' polishing/cutting

it is an improvement over the previous effort for sure but there is still left to be desired.

for one: don't do multiple coats.... in time intervals more than couple of hours. I much rather spray on one thick coat.... you will see what i mean in the pictures.

two: that rustoleum spray paint sucks ***?!? idk why but it does not polish well and it is super hard and this brings me to the third....

third: maybe the polishing and cutting compounds are ****? i don't think they are made to be used by hand, it takes forever and it doesn't seem to accomplish anything. There is some sort of a trick to this compound and polish that i haven't figured out :/

The cutting compound does not break into fine polish and no dust residue that you graciously wipe off and viola gloss underneath! It feels like I am wiping off grime!!!

Here is what happens. I rub in the compound with a microfiber sponge and rub for a while and it somewhat oily like clear cream with some white streaks in it. It starts to dry off a bit for a while and it never breaks down to a nice and white creamy/dusty looking powder and when i am done I MUSTN'T let it dry because the creamy clear residue dries up and you cant remove it if you don't take it off right away! It actually dries so fast that i cant wipe it off with the microfiber and the surface becomes dull again :/
I actually have to use my finger and rub it off like a thin film layer of glue residue and if i don't do it quick enough i get inconstant polish.

fourth: Doing two coats sucked because when I was leveling, sanding out the orange peel/pits i hit the second/bottom coat and you can see the hue difference in the paint like a leopard


Click the image to open in full size.
You cant notice the imperfections from a few feet away at night. It looks pretty good but still...

Click the image to open in full size.
When you are at the right spot and the light is shining just right.... you can see the "leopard" paint job :/

Click the image to open in full size.
you can see some small scratches still that should have been taken care of. I used my hand sander (not orbital) with the mcrofiber sponge and in the big surface area the polish is perfect and no small swirls and scratches.... except the "leopard" :/
The swirls and small scratches show up towards the edge of the box more but from a few feet away cant really notice them.

Click the image to open in full size.
At full brightness you can notice the polish inconsistency and the "leopard much more"

Click the image to open in full size.

for next time.... What freakin pain should i use?!?! Any particular brand/type? How is acrylic? I dont think i want to use an Enamel any more, it looks like it never gets hard enough. And waht about my compound and polish?!? They totally seem to miss the mark, looks like i cant use them by hand!!!! They never break down to a dust/fiber/white cream and once i start wiping it off it feels like i am wiping off grime!!!

Last edited by OneManDIY; 17th November 2011 at 05:28 AM.
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Old 18th November 2011, 06:41 PM   #346
richie00boy is offline richie00boy  United Kingdom
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Thanks for the update. It looks like you have already answered your own questions though. And as for what paint, well you were told already in post 342.
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Old 22nd November 2011, 05:38 PM   #347
Top Shelf is offline Top Shelf  Canada
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Hi guys ,first off this is an awesome thread, lots of good info. But I have a question about spray guns,has anyone used the "starting line" guns from Devilbiss. I was looking at their site and the one I am interested in is a (detail) gun. Obviously its called that for a reason, but will it perform poorly with primer or clearcoat ? Should I be looking elsewhere? Its item #802405.
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Last edited by Top Shelf; 22nd November 2011 at 05:44 PM.
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Old 22nd November 2011, 06:25 PM   #348
GM is offline GM  United States
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No experience with HVLP, but assuming a ~direct comparison to air and airless, it will shoot them thinned down more as is typical for touch-up/detail work. FWIW, a '62 model of this and/or several different Paasche airbrushes is what I've used for all my small projects from rosin based lacquer to aliphatic enamel to various acrylics and even black epoxy for color matching the panels of an old dishwasher to a new fridge, stove; so it's not so much about what you're shooting, but how it's prepared/applied [retarding agent is your 'friend' in most cases]: Model 115 Manual Air Spray Gun From Binks

Still, best to let Devilbiss do all the recommending as I once did with Binks.

GM
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Old 22nd November 2011, 07:11 PM   #349
Top Shelf is offline Top Shelf  Canada
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Oops I wasnt looking for a detail gun. More of an all purpose one. I took alook at the binks site and the. M1-G is exactly what I'm looking for ,thanks GM
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Old 23rd November 2011, 12:26 AM   #350
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A 'how to' for High Gloss Finishing
top shelf, those guns need 8 to 10 cfm of air. Make sure your compressor is up to the job.
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