Hi everyone, I am planning on getting a matching Slimline case to house a preamp (volume, source select, phono amp, raspberry pi) for my LM3886DR build which is in a Dissipante. The thing is, I'm not sure about the final front panel layout. As such I don't want to go tearing up the 10mm aluminium plate I will order the case with. Do you have any recommendations for a cheap front panel I can prototype with? The 4mm panel they offer still feels a bit pricey at 16 bucks for just something to hack into and not use in the end. But maybe that is just the easiest solution. What do y'all do for front panel prototyping?
Layout on a pece of paper is the "easy" part 
; big problem for DIYers and home constructors in general is the "mechanical" side.
IFyou have access to a CNC machine (some shop nearby) in principle you can use something like "Front Panel Designer" which outputs files the CNC machine can understand.
That is the very best option.
IF not, only practical/accessible machine for a Home user is a bench drill, which can make ANY hole ... as long as it´s round
You can file one or two into square/rectangular shapes but usually results look "handmade" and not in a nice way.
That said, it´s not a limitation if you choose wisely; when I started that´s all I had, (think late 60´s, early 70´s) and way back then I had standardized into just 2 drill sizes: 10mm for pots, neon lights, jacks, rotary and toggle switches, and 4 mm for 1/8" nut/bolt mounting and TO3 transistor legs, plus a single 13mm Greenlee punch for fuse holders and cable clamps.
Plus the odd tube socket now and then cut with a "cup" saw, not your case I guess.
A bench drillpress will handle anything between 1mm and 16mm and various rotary files, mounted stones and cup saws, a good investment.
Stepped drills are also VERY versatile, this one goes from 4mm to 32 mm !!!!:
; big problem for DIYers and home constructors in general is the "mechanical" side.IFyou have access to a CNC machine (some shop nearby) in principle you can use something like "Front Panel Designer" which outputs files the CNC machine can understand.
That is the very best option.
IF not, only practical/accessible machine for a Home user is a bench drill, which can make ANY hole ... as long as it´s round
You can file one or two into square/rectangular shapes but usually results look "handmade" and not in a nice way.
That said, it´s not a limitation if you choose wisely; when I started that´s all I had, (think late 60´s, early 70´s) and way back then I had standardized into just 2 drill sizes: 10mm for pots, neon lights, jacks, rotary and toggle switches, and 4 mm for 1/8" nut/bolt mounting and TO3 transistor legs, plus a single 13mm Greenlee punch for fuse holders and cable clamps.
Plus the odd tube socket now and then cut with a "cup" saw, not your case I guess.
A bench drillpress will handle anything between 1mm and 16mm and various rotary files, mounted stones and cup saws, a good investment.
Stepped drills are also VERY versatile, this one goes from 4mm to 32 mm !!!!:
Use hardboard, plastic glazing, etc, but apply metal tape for hum shielding.
GOOD "duct tape" is heavy aluminum foil, excellent stuff, but one roll is some money. (You probably need the rest on your ducts, if you like crawling in the attic.) https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Aluminum-Sealing-Patching-Deadening/dp/B08L32Y48B Cloth "duct tape" is not really good for ducts and total crap for electric shielding.
Guitarists buy a copper foil in small lots from guitar-maker (luthier) vendors. StewMac is widely trusted, though they like generous portions.
GOOD "duct tape" is heavy aluminum foil, excellent stuff, but one roll is some money. (You probably need the rest on your ducts, if you like crawling in the attic.) https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Aluminum-Sealing-Patching-Deadening/dp/B08L32Y48B Cloth "duct tape" is not really good for ducts and total crap for electric shielding.
Guitarists buy a copper foil in small lots from guitar-maker (luthier) vendors. StewMac is widely trusted, though they like generous portions.
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OK
I thought you wanted a functional prototype, to build the amp and actually turn it on and use it.
If it´s only to check spacing and aesthetics, yes,almost anything cann work.
Thick cardboard orb thin MDF (say, up to 3 mm) can be easily cut with a sharp X Acto type knife and some hand pressure.
After you cut everything, use some spray contact adhesive to cover it with kitchen type aluminumfoil, it will look quite like the real thing.
Keep us updated (hint: pictures)
I thought you wanted a functional prototype, to build the amp and actually turn it on and use it.
If it´s only to check spacing and aesthetics, yes,almost anything cann work.
Thick cardboard orb thin MDF (say, up to 3 mm) can be easily cut with a sharp X Acto type knife and some hand pressure.
After you cut everything, use some spray contact adhesive to cover it with kitchen type aluminumfoil, it will look quite like the real thing.
Keep us updated (hint: pictures)
