Crossover mounting location, what are your thoughts please.

Good afternoon,

It is time for assembly, everything is rounded, cut, angled and drilled on the tritrix TL pieces. I do need to figure out a location for mounting the crossover. I was wondering if a crossover inside the TL was a problem. The 3 options I see are the back plate, the bottom angled waveguide, or outside under the bottom between a vented DIY base? I believe most people use the back angled waveguide at the bottom. Maybe it would be better on the front angled waveguide (left side in the drawing)?

Your thoughts would be appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • cabinet 3.jpg
    cabinet 3.jpg
    117.5 KB · Views: 257
Last edited:
No, I wouldn't think so, It is 5X7" and there is fluffy crap (that's a novice technical term) that goes into it at that point. Seems there is a big fluffy crap argument going on in the speaker community, some say it tunes, some say it does nothing. I got the fluffy crap so I am gong to use it behind the drivers.
 
At some point in the future you will need to pull out the crossover board, that is a certainty. Making sure there's a provision for doing that during in the build process will save you headaches later on. My suggestion is to mount the crossovers on the inside of the back panel, the red mark in your drawing right next to the 4" opening.

the "fluffy crap" you mentioned, are you referring you to Acousta-stuf Polyfill, the white fibrous damping material? if yes, you will need it as it helps in reducing standing waves inside the enclosure.
 
Member
Joined 2019
Paid Member
Hey Donny

In your other thread you asked about rounding the 45 degree pieces to avoid reflections going back to the driver. This task is part of the job of the acousta fill. It makes the interior less reverberant, The cabinet needs the right amount of stuffing and it needs to really be fluffed up. Not mashed into a ball like I did too many times. The right amount makes the bass tight. I used too much in a pair of microtowers recently and dig it out with a fork taped to a piece of dowel. Try to get it right the first time!
 
Hey Donny

In your other thread you asked about rounding the 45 degree pieces to avoid reflections going back to the driver. This task is part of the job of the acousta fill. It makes the interior less reverberant, The cabinet needs the right amount of stuffing and it needs to really be fluffed up. Not mashed into a ball like I did too many times. The right amount makes the bass tight. I used too much in a pair of microtowers recently and dig it out with a fork taped to a piece of dowel. Try to get it right the first time!

How much fill, does it go all the way down to the bottom? Below is the only image I have as an example?

No big deal but I would avoid putting not-exactly-aerodynamic stuff where I expect high speed airflow.

How much air are we talking about? Maybe I can get signalost to build some wings and a rudder for them, jost joking. Also, how much heat does a passive crossover generate?

Thanks again everyone for the help building these.
.
.
 

Attachments

  • poly fill.jpg
    poly fill.jpg
    31.4 KB · Views: 137
Last edited:
Also, how much heat does a passive crossover generate?
That depends on several factors such as the sensitivity of the drivers and the power of the amplifier.

The majority of the heat is developed in crossover resistors, so they should have an adequate power rating to avoid excessive temperaturs rise.

An infrared thermometer could be used to discover any hot spots in your crossover under normal operating conditions.
 
My novice outlook, after reading about maybe needing to remove crossovers at some later date prompted me to mount them outside the box. They are quite large but so are the boxes so I fabbed a neat wooden box with a sliding clear acrylic lid. They hang flat against the back of the speakers. About the size of a cigar box, they are still well out of sight and very easy to keep an eye on through the clear lids.
 
I don't lock things inside the box. Crossovers may need adjusting. Besides, you'd better do a heat performance and reliability analysis before you close them away in a stuffy wooden box.

In this example its not stuffy, it has a large transmission line, and two of the suggested placements are very well ventilated! Reflex ports and transmission lines can shift a surprising amount of air when the drivers are working hard.

With a sealed box heat build up would be a potential issue, but often a sealed box is nice and large anyway which helps. The speaker motor itself is by far the largest source of heat (well in any rational design!) and you can't place that outside the box (well actually you can of course, someone's done it I'm sure!)
 
Hello all,

I know this is an old thread but I’m about to start building a pair of TriTrix (from the component only kit) and I’m stuck on the same question: where to place the crossover?

The board is small enough to go through the mid woofer hole. So one possible spot I was thinking is horizontally under the top of the cabinet. That would be accessible from the top mid woofer hole and should be out of the way of the airflow. What do you think?

And there would you put the posts?
I was thinking maybe at the bottom corner behind the 45deg pieces?
This would leave the back panel at 28deg inclination completely free from any component or hole. What do you think?