Threading the easy way, Cheap Fast and excellent Quality

I use drill for tapping.
Torque limited and it's much easier to keep perpendicular than wobbling about with a hand wrench.
I tap a lot of brass which produces a discontinuous chip so no unwinding unless the tap is full of swarf as when tapping deep holes.
I also produce brass threaded bar, 300mm lengths, holding the bar in the chuck & die holder in the vice.
 
As a machinist I can attest that you can use a drill for tapping without backing off. Backing off was important in days gone by and before the advent of self reversing tapping head and modern tap and drill geometry. The critical thing is to drill the correct size hole for the tap and if it's not taking a huge amount of torque then drill a tad oversize. With a good metric drill set it's easy as you can go up in .1mm. Use tapping oil especially in stainless and aluminium. Brass not so important. Keep the tap square to the job. Better still use a drill press.
I should add a word of caution though. This thread started as threading sheet material not blind holes or holes in thick materials. One needs to be a bit more careful doing that.
Regards Johnno
 
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N-m is Newton - meter, a measure of force, in this case torque.
N is force, Nm is torque (which more properly would be measured in J/rad, but no-one does). Energy is also force times distance, but only if the vectors are parallel (not at right angles as for torque).

In vector notation is easy, its just the difference between dot- and cross- products:
E = r . F
T = r x F