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Drilling an 8mm aluminum panel for recessed knob/jack.
Drilling an 8mm aluminum panel for recessed knob/jack.
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Old 12th February 2020, 02:54 AM   #11
Dave Zan is offline Dave Zan  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mull3t View Post
How about a paddle bit?
Just use a counterbore, it's built to do exactly what you want.
Why mess around with wood bits, the paddle bit is an even worse idea than the Forstner bit.

Best wishes
David
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Old 12th February 2020, 06:03 AM   #12
avtech23 is offline avtech23  Australia
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Drilling an 8mm aluminum panel for recessed knob/jack.
Having the right, quality tool is always preferable. 'Buy once, cry once'.

A spade bit can get you out of a bind if you are desperate, but the length of them often makes them produce irregular holes.

My first choice would be a counterbore as Dave says, (actually CNC is my first choice) then step drill, moving onto to a disposable forstener bit depending on the urgency and level of finish required.
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Old 12th February 2020, 09:23 AM   #13
awkwardbydesign is offline awkwardbydesign  England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mull3t View Post
How about a paddle bit?
A paddle bit is a flat bit. And I cut it short to keep it steady. Counterbore bits are usually countersink, which is no good for RCA sockets, and not big enough. The centre hole needs to be about 10mm, and the counterbore at least 16mm. A flat bit has always worked for me.
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Old 12th February 2020, 10:19 AM   #14
Dave Zan is offline Dave Zan  Australia
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Originally Posted by awkwardbydesign View Post
Counterbore bits are usually countersink,
This is completely incorrect.
Click the image to open in full size.

Best wishes
David

Last edited by Dave Zan; 12th February 2020 at 10:23 AM. Reason: Resize picture for clarity, credit Wikipedia.
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Old 12th February 2020, 12:50 PM   #15
phase is offline phase  United States
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Originally Posted by awkwardbydesign View Post
And you would need a small guide hole to keep the Forstner bit centred.
That would be the (guide) mdf portion of the setup. Sorry if that wasn’t clear enough.
Forstner bits have tapered pilots, so not much to use as a guide there, so the outside of the cutter is where you would do that.

All this discussion about using wood cutting tools on metal is taking me back to my youth.
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Old 12th February 2020, 11:34 PM   #16
fredbloggstwo is offline fredbloggstwo  United Kingdom
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One technique I have seen used by a constructor on this site is to take a Neutrik RCA jack in a D-type shell (look on Ebay for Neutrik NF2D-2 RCA Jack D-Series), remove the RCA jack part, and then use the D shell to mount other stuff like volume controls and headphone sockets etc. You can get them with black and silver shells.

Saves all that drilling etc. and looks cool, particularly if you use them for other stuff on the same panel.

Cheers

Mike
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Old 13th February 2020, 12:10 AM   #17
Mull3t is offline Mull3t  United States
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The key with using a stepped bit would be having enough depth to the size your looking for. Let's say each step is only 3mm (this may not be the case) and you need 4mm then it doesn't seem it'd be right for the job. Then it seems like a forstner would work in a pinch. Only issue with a forstner is it's technically not meant for the job and who wants to waste $20 on something like this...

Fisch Wave Cutter Forstner Bit

I have a stepped bit. I'll take a look at what it can do on some scrap aluminum and if it doesn't live up to the hype, I'll try a forstner.
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Old 13th February 2020, 02:24 PM   #18
awkwardbydesign is offline awkwardbydesign  England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Zan View Post
This is completely incorrect.
Click the image to open in full size.

Best wishes
David
Indeed, however many bits sold as counterbore for wood are countersink. That is what I was referring to.
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