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What are some of the best methods for getting loudspeaker box square
What are some of the best methods for getting loudspeaker box square
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Old 11th November 2019, 08:17 PM   #1
Prolle is offline Prolle
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Default What are some of the best methods for getting loudspeaker box square

To all accomplished woodworkers

I haven't started my speaker build yet, but have tried build some shop cabinets as a practice run.

I've had a hard time in getting the cabinet square. I've used dowel joints.

I'm thinking of using a rabbet or half lap joint instead with my router.

Is this method more likely to give better results?

Thanks
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Old 11th November 2019, 08:57 PM   #2
Tromperie is offline Tromperie  Australia
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Do you have a table saw?
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Old 11th November 2019, 09:00 PM   #3
Prolle is offline Prolle
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No. I have a track saw, and a router
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Old 11th November 2019, 11:30 PM   #4
phase is offline phase  United States
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Can you make your panels slightly over-sized, then trim them using the router with a bottom bearing bit after assembly?

Or a set of pattern pieces can be made to perfection and used as guides to trim the finished parts perhaps.
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Old 12th November 2019, 02:34 AM   #5
Tromperie is offline Tromperie  Australia
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With a track saw, cut a straight edge and use a high quality (read; expensive) set square for the right angles. Though I'm sure you have a set square, it may not be up to the standard you need. Then, as phase suggests, trim route the overhang.
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Source: LMS 7.9.2 on FreeNAS, PiCorePlayer * Storage: FreeNAS 11 * DIY PGA2310 * Amps: 8 x LM3886TF
Xover: 24dB @ 300 and 3kHz * Speakers: CNC cut 54 laminations * SB 10", SB 5", VIFA 1" * Remote: Squeeze Control
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Old 12th November 2019, 12:32 PM   #6
Prolle is offline Prolle
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Will try the method of oversize panels and trim route them back. For the joinery, what do you guys use? Butt joint, locked rabbet / dado?
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Old 12th November 2019, 01:07 PM   #7
simon7000 is offline simon7000  United States
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I would make a jig. There are only two things you need.

First you need an accurate way to measure. Not a big deal a tape measure is easy to obtain. Be sure not to bend the sliding tip. Next you can make a square corner jig.

This is just a board the has two pieces of wood on one edge. One piece should be as close as you can make it to 12" and the other 16". Have the edges just touch at the inside edge. The open edges should be exactly 20" apart. This is a 3, 4, 5 triangle which gives you a 90 degree angle.

Screw or nail and glue the pieces in place. Once dried use your router to open the inner corner.

Now you can use this corner to make 3 dimension corner box edges. These can be used to clamp your boxes to square.

Of course you should line these reference corners with wood pads so the edges are also open. That way you can route oversize dadoes and then sand the boxes to perfect corners.

Once you have your corner sets you should wax the corner board and corner pieces to keep glue from sticking.

Obviously to test for square you measure the diagonals to be sure they match.

Now to clamp things you use wedges. Just use a scrap with parallel faces cut on a diaganol.

The other thing you might want to get is a piece of ground steel 36" long by 2" wide and a 1/4" thick. This will be not only a real straight edge but also a method to check your tape measure edge hasn't bent.

Now if you get a compass and plum bob you can layout almost anything.

Last edited by simon7000; 12th November 2019 at 01:10 PM.
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Old 12th November 2019, 10:24 PM   #8
Prolle is offline Prolle
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Thanks all and Simon for the detailed answer. Struggling to picture it, but I'll re read this
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Old 12th November 2019, 11:42 PM   #9
MAAC0 is offline MAAC0  Portugal
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I never had problems getting square boxes.
I make the outside box and screw all together after applying the glue.
When I affix the baffles inside, the box automatically gets square, if of course the baffle is square and fits snug.
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Old 14th November 2019, 09:13 AM   #10
Juhazi is offline Juhazi  Finland
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Installing internal braces helps to make it square.

You must just decide in which order panels are attached. I don't remember every case but at least once I left other side panel last. It also depends on how corners are done, I make them straight and overlapping a little.

Screws prevents sliding when bands and clamps are tightened. I unscrew them later on and fill holes.
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