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Replacing a broken on/off switch from a speaker
Replacing a broken on/off switch from a speaker
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Old 17th August 2019, 05:09 AM   #1
ifixit is offline ifixit
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Default Replacing a broken on/off switch from a speaker

Hello, this is my first post, hoping it to be in the right place.
I have a Job Rocker Plus speaker whose power on/off switch needs to be replaced because it's broken.

This is what I've tried:
- Removed all power source from the speaker
- Disassembled the rear panel and viewed the circuit board

I already have the new piece, and I have some tools like x-acto knife, pliers, soldering iron, and a hot air gun.

My questions are:
Any ideas of how difficult is to replace this switch?
What is the yellow material that sits beneath the heat shrink tubing?
How would you remove the heat shrink tubing? (Maybe using a knife and carefully cutting a slit and using pliers to take the whole thing out?)


I leave some images. Any advice or guide is welcome



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Old 17th August 2019, 05:37 AM   #2
wiseoldtech is online now wiseoldtech  United States
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Judging from the fact that more than two wires seem to be coming from the rear of the original switch body, it may use a SPDT or DPDT switch, which is not the type you have as a replacement.
Remove the shrink to inspect and compare.
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Old 18th August 2019, 06:10 AM   #3
Enzo is offline Enzo  United States
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Or there is a lamp in the old switch with separate connections.
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Old 18th August 2019, 06:34 AM   #4
wiseoldtech is online now wiseoldtech  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enzo View Post
Or there is a lamp in the old switch with separate connections.

Nah, there's already an LED battery level indicator, I'd assume that's the power indicator.
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Old 18th August 2019, 07:01 AM   #5
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
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What Enzo said
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Old 19th August 2019, 03:09 AM   #6
ifixit is offline ifixit
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I'm back. Thanks for the answers, guys. Ok, I peeled away the shrink...


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...so, I need a SPDT or DPDT switch? Any particular suggestion or it's the same in this case? How about this one? --> AC 250V/15A 125V/20A 4 Pins DPDT I/O Red Light Snap in Boat Rocker Switch 700955434287 | eBay
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Old 19th August 2019, 04:55 AM   #7
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
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A 4 pin switch can never be a DPDT switch which needs 6 of them.

That said, as shown in your picture you really need an SPDT one, which uses 4 , or a DPDT one where you connect just 4.

The one in the eBay link might work, but since owner has no clue, I do not trust him, get another instead.
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Old 19th August 2019, 05:23 AM   #8
wiseoldtech is online now wiseoldtech  United States
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It's mandatory to inspect the switch to determine just WHAT contacts are open/closed in each switch position.
One set could be closed while the other is opened - etc....
Because you're dealing with a high amperage battery that is incorperated with a switchmode supply for charging, etc.
A wrong type switch here could spell fried wiring and extensive damage, if not fire.
This is not a simple "on/off" switch.
And good luck with all that, because this thing's a typical chinese unit that you'll never get a service schematic for.
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Old 20th August 2019, 07:42 PM   #9
ifixit is offline ifixit
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Ok, I see, good to know that. Just wondering, besides a SPDT or DPDT, could a DPST also work? Anyways thanks for the advice and warning, guys, I'll bear it in mind.
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Old 21st August 2019, 05:25 AM   #10
chrisng is offline chrisng  United States
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I think you need a DPST switch.
SPST, SPDT, DPST, and DPDT Explained - Littelfuse
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