Purchased a variety of RCA connectors for my DIY IEEE amp.
Some came with the standard Spade connector tabs and worked.
Have no idea how to solder these, and all 4 AliExpress vendors don't either.
Solder doesn't stick to the 2 side connectors and can't believe they are grounded to the case.
What am I missing?
Thanks in advance.
Some came with the standard Spade connector tabs and worked.
Have no idea how to solder these, and all 4 AliExpress vendors don't either.
Solder doesn't stick to the 2 side connectors and can't believe they are grounded to the case.
What am I missing?
Thanks in advance.
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> AliExpress vendors
AliExpress stuff looks good.
Whether it works right or not isn't really their business.
I believe there are other vendors which make products which work right. Prices will be higher. Get what you pay for.
(FWIW: I just threw-out a 2 year old snow-blower. The first year the carb float stuck and dripped gasoline all over my driveway. Company sent a new carb with a grump. The second year the carb stuck, now bone-dry, won't start. Decided this machine was made to "sell", not to "use", and when I need a snowblower I *NEED* a snowblower (this is Maine) and a machine that mostly won't work isn't worth having.)
AliExpress stuff looks good.
Whether it works right or not isn't really their business.
I believe there are other vendors which make products which work right. Prices will be higher. Get what you pay for.
(FWIW: I just threw-out a 2 year old snow-blower. The first year the carb float stuck and dripped gasoline all over my driveway. Company sent a new carb with a grump. The second year the carb stuck, now bone-dry, won't start. Decided this machine was made to "sell", not to "use", and when I need a snowblower I *NEED* a snowblower (this is Maine) and a machine that mostly won't work isn't worth having.)
Use extra flux paste and make sure you plug an old cable into the Jack before soldering. Do that because sometimes the insulating core will deform, the plug keeps it centered even if you melt some of the core plastic.
"make sure you plug an old cable into the Jack before soldering." Excellent recommendation, its a good idea to do this with various connectors, especially Molex types.
I have some of the Chinese knockoffs of these, mine soldered ok, but I've had to roughen lots of connectors and components over the years, especially NOS. I either use a fine file or old Stanley/scalpel blade. If you use extra flux, be sure to clean it off afterwards, it can cause oxidation, rusting of chassis, that sort of thing.
Andy.
I have some of the Chinese knockoffs of these, mine soldered ok, but I've had to roughen lots of connectors and components over the years, especially NOS. I either use a fine file or old Stanley/scalpel blade. If you use extra flux, be sure to clean it off afterwards, it can cause oxidation, rusting of chassis, that sort of thing.
Andy.
With any soldering job the best result comes from pre-tinning all the parts, and with these connectors you can remove the plastic washers to prevent them melting when tinning the ground lug. Remember the whole connector will get hot, and use an adequate iron for the job so its relatively quick (quick means less heat damage to the internal insulation).
Bright nickel or gold plating ought to tin easily, but if you pretin you discover any problems early (struggling to solder in-place can lead to messy work and burnt/melted wire insulation)
In-place such connectors are sinking heat to the chassis too, making soldering harder (so don't tighten them down till after soldering).
Dropping onto a damp soldering sponge to cool rapidly is handy for large thermal masses like this.
That style of ground lug is meant for surface mount soldering direct to pcb I believe. Certainly that's the case for similarly shaped (but much smaller) SMA connectors.
Bright nickel or gold plating ought to tin easily, but if you pretin you discover any problems early (struggling to solder in-place can lead to messy work and burnt/melted wire insulation)
In-place such connectors are sinking heat to the chassis too, making soldering harder (so don't tighten them down till after soldering).
Dropping onto a damp soldering sponge to cool rapidly is handy for large thermal masses like this.
That style of ground lug is meant for surface mount soldering direct to pcb I believe. Certainly that's the case for similarly shaped (but much smaller) SMA connectors.
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