Hello, I want to put a Fosi integrated amp, which comes in a small aluminum case, into a slightly larger custom wooden box.
Would it be easy to remove some components from the PCB (like BT antenna, volume control, power switch, power plug port etc.) and move them to front or back panel of the custom exterior box?
Is this project just a matter of soldering wire extensions between the board and the components to be moved?
Would appreciate any response. Thanks and Best Wishes, h.
Would it be easy to remove some components from the PCB (like BT antenna, volume control, power switch, power plug port etc.) and move them to front or back panel of the custom exterior box?
Is this project just a matter of soldering wire extensions between the board and the components to be moved?
Would appreciate any response. Thanks and Best Wishes, h.
It's mostly a question if the needed effort is worth it. While the power port and switch is no problem, the BT antenna requires high quality coaxial cable. BT frequencies are very high, they will be dampened but still go through the wood, likely resulting in a loss of reach but still working.
The volume control needs shielded cables aswell otherwise you'll have a nice radio receiver.
Cell phones and other wireless devices will make noise with unshielded wires.
Class D amps are very efficient but they still produce heat. To get cooling, it needs airflow of some kind. If no air exchange is possible, you'll get hot spots and if the amp seems to be cool used open in a room, that's no guarantee it stays that cool within the enclosure. If the temperature is still okay for the amp, it might not pose a problem but maybe it does.
In most cases I would not bother with extending the plugs. Mounting the plugs in wood isn't a very nice thing, the plugs and cables aren't for free either. Why don't you mount the amp on the back side of the speaker? If you don't want it to stick out, you could make a notch or recess in the enclosure for it. It got cooling, everything accessible, lowest effort and cost.
The volume control needs shielded cables aswell otherwise you'll have a nice radio receiver.
Cell phones and other wireless devices will make noise with unshielded wires.Class D amps are very efficient but they still produce heat. To get cooling, it needs airflow of some kind. If no air exchange is possible, you'll get hot spots and if the amp seems to be cool used open in a room, that's no guarantee it stays that cool within the enclosure. If the temperature is still okay for the amp, it might not pose a problem but maybe it does.
In most cases I would not bother with extending the plugs. Mounting the plugs in wood isn't a very nice thing, the plugs and cables aren't for free either. Why don't you mount the amp on the back side of the speaker? If you don't want it to stick out, you could make a notch or recess in the enclosure for it. It got cooling, everything accessible, lowest effort and cost.
ICG, appreciate your response with all the info! This is what I've been looking for. Yes, sounds like quite a project.
I have planned air exchange in the form of two small circle cutouts in my custom box, one in the bottom, one in the top, covered with tiny speaker grills.
Attaching the amp to one of the speakers is an option. They are pretty small though and have only the tops and the sides free of components.
Looks like shielded cables for volume controls and coaxial cable for the antenna might do the trick. Another option is to enclose the amp without taking it apart: mounting the amp in precise, matching cutouts in the front and back panels of the custom box. This way the front and the back of the amp will be exposed, which is not too bad, provided I could get rid of the logo.
P.S. Are all those various mini integrated amp boards sold online for diy implied to be put in shielded enclosures?
I have planned air exchange in the form of two small circle cutouts in my custom box, one in the bottom, one in the top, covered with tiny speaker grills.
Attaching the amp to one of the speakers is an option. They are pretty small though and have only the tops and the sides free of components.
Looks like shielded cables for volume controls and coaxial cable for the antenna might do the trick. Another option is to enclose the amp without taking it apart: mounting the amp in precise, matching cutouts in the front and back panels of the custom box. This way the front and the back of the amp will be exposed, which is not too bad, provided I could get rid of the logo.
P.S. Are all those various mini integrated amp boards sold online for diy implied to be put in shielded enclosures?
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