Cabinet front wall thickness - solid wood

[BrockLanders]

Hello!

I'm planning to build speaker cabinets from solid oak. This is my second project, my first one was this: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/327265-cube-shaped-speakers.html


This time I'm going to use Strassacker enclosure design: Mark 9
Except for all other walls I will use 20mm solid oak panel and for the "design effect" I will use 30mm solid oak panel for the front wall - description of those oak panels is here: Edge glued oak panels | Stragendo - Wood Glued Panels, Lumber, Timber in Tallinn

I know all the drawbacks of solid wood vs birch plywood, but plywood just looks ugly and I don't want to paint my speakers, I really love the look of natural solid wood. I got my inspiration from here: Taipuu Speakers - Taipuu Speakers

My question is - if I will use 30mm front panel, then do I have to use the driver cutout design like Erich's Hartmann's bookshelf box uses? Alpair 10 Gold | Markaudio
It is milling of the inner side of the driver cutout hole wall to 20 degree angle. I suppose it is necessary, because otherwise the driver's back side would be too deep inside the cabinet wall and that would alter he characteristics of the speaker?

Thank you for the help!

 

[arlester]

this may be too late to help you.. i took a quick look at the drawings, and am i correct in saying that you are concerned the 30mm front panel will reduce the interior volume of the box? the drawing shows a full front panel - so the added 10mm would be toward the exterior. with the speaker mounted from the interior, there would be no change. if the speaker was mounted from the exterior, it would add the 10mm, and you would need to route a 10mm recess to maintain the same enclosure volume. i hope i didn't misunderstand your question and lead you astray! good luck

 

[Mario Pankov]

Be sure to buy oak that is dry enough, otherwise it will bent with time or may even develop cracks.

 

[arlester]

agreed mario. typically, 6% moisture content is fine. be sure to seal/finish all sides of the wood (the inside of the cabinet). this will help avoid cupping. in this particular design, align the grain of the top, bottom, front and back - this will keep any potential expansion and contraction in harmony for the majority of the parts.

 

[BrockLanders]

So, I finished my second diy speaker project. They took lot of work, but they look and feel nicer than any painted diy speaker I've seen I have issues with the sound, bass is too boomy and "hollow" even after 200 hours, but lets see, maybe it will get better after more playing. They go way lower than my first project, but don't sound as precise and "clear" compared to tiny sealed CHR70.3 plywood boxes.

 

[Kay Pirinha]

So, I finished my second diy speaker project. They took lot of work, but they look and feel nicer than any painted diy speaker I've seen

Nice work, indeed !

I have issues with the sound, bass is too boomy and "hollow" even after 200 hours, but lets see, maybe it will get better after more playing. They go way lower than my first project, but don't sound as precise and "clear" compared to tiny sealed CHR70.3 plywood boxes.

How did you calculate the vent? Did you provide damping material inside?
Best regards!