desoldering a pcb mini-transformer

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Have made a circuit on a double sided PCB universal board.
All holes on that PCB are through-hole soldering.
I want to replace a mini-transformer on that board but discovered that desoldering is practically impossible
to do due to the through-hole soldering of those transformer pins.
Is there still a way to get this job done?
Is there a way to mount those PCB mini-transformers on some sort of socket mounting for easy replacement like IC sockets?
Or are there other more clever ways to mount a PCB mini-transformer?
Suggestions are most welcome!
 
Same with ICs, just grind the bulk of the defective component away with an angle grinder leaving the pins, then the pins can be easily removed one by one by just heating them and using tweezers. Once the pins are out the holes can be cleared with either a mop or a blast of air. (or vacuum pump).
 
Can you post a photo?


Here they are. As I have written before the inside of those holes in the board are also covered with copper and both the top and the botom of the holes have a 1/2 mm surrounding ring.
 

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Same with ICs, just grind the bulk of the defective component away with an angle grinder leaving the pins, then the pins can be easily removed one by one by just heating them and using tweezers. Once the pins are out the holes can be cleared with either a mop or a blast of air. (or vacuum pump).


So the only way to detach the transformer from the board is drilling holes at the place where the pins are soldered.
 
I do that kind of chore routinely: I build all my proto's on perfboard, PTH when they need to (which I try to avoid), and inevitably, I sometimes (often?) have to remove various components, including multiple pins ones.

I use various strategies: desoldering station, then a solder pump on steroids, solder wick, and when all removable tin is gone I finish the job by gently wiggling the part in all axis to break any remaining adherences.

It takes some practice to do it right, and there are additional tricks: for example, the silver-coated braid of PTFE-covered coaxials (RG142, RG179, etc.) works much better than dedicated producted, when it is has just been stripped and covered with a drop or two of solder flux.
 
Here they are. As I have written before the inside of those holes in the board are also covered with copper and both the top and the botom of the holes have a 1/2 mm surrounding ring.
- no problem. Move pins by 0.5 mm at one time, pin by pin. You have to heat those both two secondary widing legs together (use wide soldering head). Step by step. It neads just time.
 
Yes, I also build my proto type circuits on a perfboard and when I have to remove or replace a component, whether discrete components or IC's, I use the usual tools like desoldering litze or a vacuum pump.
The problem started when I used (for the first time) perf boards with through-soldering holes. Those holes are inside also coated with copper. In the recent past I used perf boards which did not have those type of holes but only small copper rings around it. That made it rather easy to remove the components even when it was an IC with DIL pinning.
When solder a component with that new perf board the solder tin also flows into the hole making it more difficult to replace a component.
But I always managed to get them de-soldered until I used for the first time those mini-transformers.
Whatever I tried I could not manage to get that @%** trafo desoldered.
 
It takes some practice to do it right,
I agree. I practiced for a few hours on some 'junk' circuit boards and I did get more efficient. The only problem is that a board from something 'old' is required as new devices are mostly SMD, not through-hole. Old computer power supplies (ATX?) are good candidates for desoldering practice.
The first step with commercial boards is to add 60-60 solder to the joints as it is easier to work than 'lead-free', and makes removals easier. It's not an issue with joints I've soldered myself.


and there are additional tricks: for example, the silver-coated braid of PTFE-covered coaxials (RG142, RG179, etc.) works much better than dedicated producted, when it is has just been stripped and covered with a drop or two of solder flux.
That's a good trick; thanks!
 
But I always managed to get them de-soldered until I used for the first time those mini-transformers.
Whatever I tried I could not manage to get that @%** trafo desoldered.
Yes, those thicker pins can't be 'wiggled' loose.

I'd try hot air from a rework station if you have one available.
Like removing larger SMD components - lead solder, lots of flux and heat.
 
Depends also on what you want to salvage. One rude method is to tightly fix the PCB. Apply heat from a heat gun to the first row of pins. Until the solder is molten and then lift the transformer off the PCB on that side. Then the other side. It will ruin your PCB. Be careful to direct the heat along the PCB and not onto the PCB. It can damage the transformer.
A more delicate method: remove as much solder as possible with a desoldering pump, desoldering iron or solder wick. Then the hole is open. Grab the wire with tweezers, and touch the wire with a soldering iron. Move the wire to the middle of the hole once the solder melts. You will likely ruin the PCB pads or the PCB hole-thru. But only where the transformer was.
 
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