I think you are right. The problem with stripping off the original veneer is that if there is a problem with what lies beneath, then it becomes a one way rescue job.
A new veneer on top of an already good surface is the way to go - providing the original veneer has not been oiled (which I doubt)
If it has previously been shellacked as a factory finish, then it could easily be removed by dissolving in methylated spirit, followed by cabinet scraping.
Factory finish on real wood veneer would well have been a polyurethane / acrylic, as opposed to solvent based ( lacquer or shellac). An easy way test for that would be with lacquer thinners on an inconspicuous spot (bottom). Unless you intend to re-veneer, or the existing is damaged, I’d be inclined to simply sand the top coat with 220G, then paint as richie00boy suggested. To fully fill the grain pores, you’d probably want a couple of coats of high solids primer before colour and top coats.
Applying veneer to an existing surface is not really all that difficult, except that real veneer is rather fragile. I had a box to cover recently, and purchased "door skins" for the project. In the US, "door skins" are about 1mm thick and three ply, with good veneer on top. Contact cement and trim the edges. Worked very well.
Well, having veneered and re-veneered / refurbished more than a few pairs of new DIY and vintage speakers, I’d certainly agree that it’d be easy enough to do that - although I’d generally espouse the use of flexible paper backed veneer, and iron-on glue technique. But from the OP’s initial and subsequent posts, I’d inferred that he was interested in getting rid of the look of wood grain pores. That’d also be not a particularly difficult process, although a really high quality ( i.e. “piano grade”) paint finish can be very time consuming, and the materials could easily cost more than a new sheet of veneer and finishing materials.
I once did an almost 'piano finish' varnishing of a wooden kayak. It took six coats and six weeks to complete. I say almost, as to get the real thing would have taken another six coats.
Quite an experience. First, wet and dry sanding of the entire structure, followed by misting the entire workshop with water to knock out any dust. Leave to dry out over night. Next day coating with dilute varnish using a foam brush. Leave to dry for five days before starting again, gradually working through the sandpaper grades up to 2000 grit. Yes, quite an experience. Not sure if I would do the same thing with a speaker cabinet.
Yes it works great but I had only seen it on photo. See my link there are guys how make this at home.
vinylwrap speakers - Google Search
Good luck
Anders
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How about Formica laminate over the top of what you have now?
Anyone use Formica or other laminate instead of veneer? -
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
Anyone use Formica or other laminate instead of veneer? -
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
P-lam can get to be a bit fussy on cabinets with the shape of the speakers posted in photos a few posts back, and requires a little bit of practice, laminate trimmer router and bits, and is particularly “fun” if mid-bass drivers are flush mounted with a shallow rebate. Oh yes, a bit messy too. The only way to avoid the tell tale brown line of phenolic backer at edges is to use solid color through types, which are much more costly, and a royal pain to work with.
You haven't shown us the space they're going into, but in general an all-black low contrast appearance is visually smaller -- some might even say slimming!
I think your speakers would end up looking visually fussy if the cabinet color contrasts with the black tweeter housing, port, and woofer basket (not to mention the yellow cone
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