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where to put the cross over board
where to put the cross over board
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Old 17th September 2018, 12:53 AM   #1
habsfan is offline habsfan  Canada
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Default where to put the cross over board

I am building the More Trix tall bookshelf speakers with a port and was wondering where is the best place for the cross over board in each enclosure. Each board is 5'' wide and 7 1/2'' long and 1 3/4'' thick. It will just fit on the bottom of the enclosure under the port but with not much room to spare. Is it OK to put it on the side of the box in the section where the woofer is located or is this a no no. Any help or thoughts are always appreciated.
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Old 17th September 2018, 07:01 AM   #2
Old'n'Cranky is offline Old'n'Cranky  Australia
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Ask 100 people you'll got 100 different answers.

Personally, put it where it fits and allows future access.
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Old 19th September 2018, 12:38 PM   #3
habsfan is offline habsfan  Canada
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Default polyfill how much

How much polyfill do I need to put in each enclosure and I am using Supra 2.5 wire for the internal connections. I notice that the wire jacket has >>>> marks on it. Am I right in assuming that this is the direction the audio signal should flow. All help is much appreciated, thanks.
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Old 19th September 2018, 04:53 PM   #4
Speedskater is offline Speedskater  United States
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If you put the crossover outside the loudspeaker, you can use a bigger board. Then you can space the inductors father apart, for less cross-talk. I read that in a Doug Self book.
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Old 19th September 2018, 05:04 PM   #5
paulfx is offline paulfx  United States
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Also, on an outboard board, you can more easily place the inductors at right angles to each other.

Last edited by paulfx; 19th September 2018 at 05:05 PM. Reason: more easily
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Old 19th September 2018, 05:19 PM   #6
Galu is online now Galu  Scotland
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Place the crossover board far away from the woofer to prevent magnetic interaction with the crossover inductors. On the bottom of the cabinet sounds good.

It is usual just to line the walls of a reflex enclosure (apart from the baffle board) with absorbant material. Do not obstruct the flow of air to the port. The amount of absorbant is best decided on by experiment.

Point the wire's arrows toward the loudspeaker components if it makes you feel comfortable. In practice, it makes no difference except to the people who believe it will!
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Old 23rd September 2018, 01:44 PM   #7
habsfan is offline habsfan  Canada
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I got some beautiful pieces of maple burl veneer to do the front and top of my enclosures but I also want to be able to add grills to cover and protect the drivers. I was thinking of using 3/8'' diameter rare earth magnets under the veneer to hold these grills on without ruining the look of the speakers with ugly plastic pins or cups. Will the magnets pose any problems with the drivers?
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Old 28th September 2018, 11:36 PM   #8
chrisb is online now chrisb
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Theyíd have to be. Lot bigger than 3/8 diameter to interfere. I always fabricated the grille frames first, then taped them to the enclosures to serve as templates for countersinking the holes into baffles. Use stop collar on brad point bit, with depth set for approx 1mm deeper than the magnet thickness. If those holes are too shallow, the magnets will be a real bitch to remove, and while they can be filed / sanded flush, itís a messy and time consuming job. With the holes just a bit deeper, set flush with a block of hard wood/ MDF. If the holes in frame are a bit oversized, a thick glob of white glue should suffice.

Iíve built literally scores of sets of grille same this way, works like a charm
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