Hi all.
I have made my own take on troels SB 3 way classic. I now have the need to remove the woofers to get to the crossover. The gasket on the 8” woofers is awesome as I can’t remove the driver from the baffle. They seem glued on even when all screws are removed. I have tried inserting a large screw into one of the holes and pulling on the driver. It won’t budge.
Is there a known easy way to do this without wrecking the baffle and drivers?
.
I have made my own take on troels SB 3 way classic. I now have the need to remove the woofers to get to the crossover. The gasket on the 8” woofers is awesome as I can’t remove the driver from the baffle. They seem glued on even when all screws are removed. I have tried inserting a large screw into one of the holes and pulling on the driver. It won’t budge.
Is there a known easy way to do this without wrecking the baffle and drivers?
.
1.5mm hex head Allen key through the screw hole. You may have to remove a bit of the wood immediately behind the driver to get some purchase. You'll also need some support at the front so it doesn't drop to the floor.
I had a tool made for this purpose with a flat head at one end so it didn't damage anything. It's usually because of paint residue that becomes sticky, and is very common for all driver sizes.
Expect to have a few scratches on the driver frame afterward. In anticipation, I made the crossover on mine removable without touching the drivers. A chamber on back or bottom usually does the trick. Still, need to move stuff around sometimes to adjust damping etc. After a few removals, it gets easier.
I had a tool made for this purpose with a flat head at one end so it didn't damage anything. It's usually because of paint residue that becomes sticky, and is very common for all driver sizes.
Expect to have a few scratches on the driver frame afterward. In anticipation, I made the crossover on mine removable without touching the drivers. A chamber on back or bottom usually does the trick. Still, need to move stuff around sometimes to adjust damping etc. After a few removals, it gets easier.
Gave it a go, but couldn’t even get the Allen key behind the driver.
Found some fine threaded screws of the exact diameter of the holes and slowly screwed them in. I used 4 screws to gently pry the driver from the baffle. I could hear the driver give after a few minutes of pressure. No damage to the baffle or drivers. This might be a new technique.
Found some fine threaded screws of the exact diameter of the holes and slowly screwed them in. I used 4 screws to gently pry the driver from the baffle. I could hear the driver give after a few minutes of pressure. No damage to the baffle or drivers. This might be a new technique.
As messy as it might be, how about a careful dribble of lacquer thinners/ contact cement thinners, and prying with flat blade screw driver? Of course that would most likely render the gaskets unusable, but thin closed cel foam weatherstripping is readily available and I’ve found it easy to use and effective.
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