Well, by minimal tools I should have prefaced with “almost no tools”.
I taped it off and am awaiting a high quality file as Wayne and some others have suggested.
The steel I have is too thick for a nibbler.
I will attempt the drill method and report back.
True, very true .......... sometimes one tiny little job, like making a square hole in a sheet of metal for the very first time, can take oh, say a week - maybe more. Second time, mostly probably a whole day. Third time? Use an axe!
tapestryofsound
Files
I don't think you need a high quality file, in fact I've done more than a few of these with files designed for wood, all I had on hand and probably wrecked them but they worked more than once.
If you need to file a lot of material use a round file, it goes a lot faster, cuts in better. Use a flat one at the end to even things out.
Filing the major portions with a flat file will take forever.
Also it is really really really loud and noisy sometimes.
I don't think you need a high quality file, in fact I've done more than a few of these with files designed for wood, all I had on hand and probably wrecked them but they worked more than once.
If you need to file a lot of material use a round file, it goes a lot faster, cuts in better. Use a flat one at the end to even things out.
Filing the major portions with a flat file will take forever.
Also it is really really really loud and noisy sometimes.
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I can really see that you have done this before.
A lot more pressure can be put on a round file compared to a flat. And some flat files have a side edge free of teeth that make it a doddle to get a nice clean right angled corner. And yes, it can get very noisy! If possible, hold the job low down in the vice to keep the vibrations at a minimum, although I know it is not always possible ........
tapestryofsound
In this case, I am afraid you can also forget the fast and easy method of hammer and chisel: it works best with aluminum or small-gauge soft steel, and I fear the worst for thick, hard metals
https://media1.tenor.com/images/9f6cbb2444347252ac88fe625de6d9b8/tenor.gif?itemid=4178909
This is how I do it...
This is how I do it...
I scribe the opening carefully then tape it off with masking tape around the outside. I then use a cut-off wheel in my Dremel tool to cut straight lines as close as I can to the edges and the corners. I then remove the cutout chunk of material. A flat file and a triangular time make relatively quick work of the corners and sides. Takes me about an hour in the thick cast aluminum chassis I usually build stuff in. For steel chassis I usually punt by drilling a round hole and installing a grommet for a direct wired cord as I dislike IEC connectors in general.
Good call about fixed cords. If your kit is just going to sit there, then a plug&socket arrangement can be an unwanted complication. I have seen many get warm with just 3 amps running through them. Plus they add depth to the equipment, even using 90 degree plugs. Sometimes the only time the arrangement is useful, it for storage and transport. You need to ask yourself, should I compromise my connection for ease of transportation or swapping components about.
A guy in Japan had his own pylons installed to bring in clean power from the local generating company. I don't think he would choose iec's over wired in flex.
High end gear will have iec sockets in the interest of further expenditure. How else would you sell them a £1000 iec lead, or tell them not to return the amp, but instead make themselves happy with pseudo conversations about such leads and mains filters. Until their brain thinks it must sound better. Because it cost enough.
Back on topic, it's a pity nobody has stamped out some bezels. Just from thin plate. As a decorative measure. So you can whop it out with a chisel, with the only goal to get the tabs located without the hot glue. Any over sizing that left a gap, would just hide under this plate, that's already cut to take an iec.
I guess if you do balls it and go too big, then you could make such a plate from thin black plastic and scissors. Just to cover any gaps. Not offer mechanical support.
A guy in Japan had his own pylons installed to bring in clean power from the local generating company. I don't think he would choose iec's over wired in flex.
High end gear will have iec sockets in the interest of further expenditure. How else would you sell them a £1000 iec lead, or tell them not to return the amp, but instead make themselves happy with pseudo conversations about such leads and mains filters. Until their brain thinks it must sound better. Because it cost enough.
Back on topic, it's a pity nobody has stamped out some bezels. Just from thin plate. As a decorative measure. So you can whop it out with a chisel, with the only goal to get the tabs located without the hot glue. Any over sizing that left a gap, would just hide under this plate, that's already cut to take an iec.
I guess if you do balls it and go too big, then you could make such a plate from thin black plastic and scissors. Just to cover any gaps. Not offer mechanical support.
Black plastic
Agreed- if you have extra openings, or the opening turns out to be too large you can cut up some black plastic or acrylic (ebay for cheap) and put it in there.
Here is an example of some type of black plastic (can not recall what it is exactly).
I used this on the back of an amp made from an old Sansui receiver chassis.
It is sufficiently thick and strong to hold connectors itself.
Someone mentioned sending the panel to Front Panel Express (frontpanelexpress.com).
I tried this decades ago and at that time they would only work on aluminum panels-
turns out I sent in a steel panel and they would not touch it, so they duplicated it in aluminum.
Its a good company but a little overkill for this application....just my opinion.
Agreed- if you have extra openings, or the opening turns out to be too large you can cut up some black plastic or acrylic (ebay for cheap) and put it in there.
Here is an example of some type of black plastic (can not recall what it is exactly).
I used this on the back of an amp made from an old Sansui receiver chassis.
It is sufficiently thick and strong to hold connectors itself.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Someone mentioned sending the panel to Front Panel Express (frontpanelexpress.com).
I tried this decades ago and at that time they would only work on aluminum panels-
turns out I sent in a steel panel and they would not touch it, so they duplicated it in aluminum.
Its a good company but a little overkill for this application....just my opinion.
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My test effort was so bad I didn’t attempt it on the actual unit. Came out with some gaps and rather slanted. But i did get better. It just didn’t look as clean as I wanted it to. The time from setting it up everything to putting it all away probably took me an hour and the results were rather embarrassing. I tried to go slow and trace it nicely on painters tape and it was just subpar. But hey, that’s diy and I’ll get better. But for now i think I’ll stick with round holes only.
Since the case was very cramped as it was, I decided on a small separate case for psu which came with an IEC cutout from China for $20 shipped.
Most of other options all required tools costing more than that. The recommended file was 3x that. But, I do now have one heck of an expensive file though to play with in the future.
Sometimes it’s best not to overcomplicate every step of the process.
As an added bonus it’ll keep the transformer out of the line stage.
It was the cheapest and cleanest solution by any metric for me over all the other options provided.
Since I’m waiting on some other parts anyhow I don’t mind a little delay.
I will use the time I bought to get better with the drill and file for next time.
Honestly for those not mechanically inclined doing this sort of thing can be much more headache than it’s worth, even though others do it with ease and can’t understand the fuss.
Regarding captive cords the last time I did that I caused a short from clamping down the cord cap. I can’t stand those things. I threw the remainder in the trash. Removable cords make life easy sometimes. It’s not always some diabolical snake oil plot.
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This was the most sensible answer. For the non-mechanically inclined, it’s asking for an unfortunate afternoon to try your hand at nibblers or a drill and a file. Would wind up costing me more and even though I could use it indefinitely, for this time around for a project I’m putting a lot of time and effort into just doesn’t seem worth it to have a so-so result.
A whole new PSU chassis, including everything I need for the umbilical cost less than the Front Panel Express backplate.
So, my suggestion to someone arriving here looking for wise words:
Don’t bother unless your skills are already up to the task or price is a serious issue and you don’t mind a result that’s rough around the edges (literally).
Instead get a separate PSU chassis with IEC cutout and you’re back to round holes for everything else!
Or cough up the $$ to front panel express.
Whichever suits your fancy.
(I took liberty to fix your typo in the quote.)
Been a while but finally began experimenting with the Nibbler and file.
First try with a Nibbler tool above. Got the one that parts express sellers Looks completely flush from the outside. Was able to file down the edges as well pretty nicely.
As long as the metal is not too thick this is the way to go. Just drill a hole at your center point and nibble outwards. Be sure to mark everything, of course.
If you are uptight about perfection this is likely not the way to go, as it requires a lot of practice to get attractive, consistent results.
At my ability level I’d likely get professional assistance from a machine shop at any thickness the Nibbler couldn’t handle.
IF you have a steel panel and it´s well beyond nibbler possibilities, investigate water jet cutting.
Incredibly smooth cuts, some companies require an AutoCad or equivalent drawing to program their CNC machines, others can work with pencil and paper sketches as long as dimensions are clear.
Only problem is you must send a bare panel, because it´s REALLY a Water jet, and splashes everything.
Thickness is no problem, I saw them cut gear wheels out of 2" thick steel
Waterjet Cutting Photo Gallery
Incredibly smooth cuts, some companies require an AutoCad or equivalent drawing to program their CNC machines, others can work with pencil and paper sketches as long as dimensions are clear.
Only problem is you must send a bare panel, because it´s REALLY a Water jet, and splashes everything.
Thickness is no problem, I saw them cut gear wheels out of 2" thick steel
Waterjet Cutting Photo Gallery
For a new panel, a waterjet will give great results, smooth edges, some holes(not smaller than material thickness), but an existing panel will be hard to accurately index on most machines I have found out the hard way.
I’m lucky to have had decades working in r&d doing mostly mechanical projects, 3D design, and have a large drawer of files passed down to me from previous generations. Mostly just have to be patient and ease up to the intended target, lots of checking along the way.
I’m lucky to have had decades working in r&d doing mostly mechanical projects, 3D design, and have a large drawer of files passed down to me from previous generations. Mostly just have to be patient and ease up to the intended target, lots of checking along the way.
To cut an IEC inlet into the very thick back panel of a cheap Chinese "Class A enclosure" from eBay, I discovered that the drill then file method worked well, AFTER I purchased files that were suited to this particular job. I found that the ones specifically designed and built to file aluminum metal, worked amazingly well.
Nicholson Flat Hand File for Aluminum, American Pattern, Double Cut, Rectangular, Fine, 10" Length: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Osborn International 75116SP Steel File Card, 3-3/4" Brush Area Length: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Simonds Flat Hand File for Aluminum, American Pattern, Double Cut, Rectangular, Coarse, 8" Length, 25/32" Width, 9/64" Thickness: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Needle File Set (HIGHEST QUALITY 6 PIECE SET) Hardened Alloy Strength Steel - Mini Needle File Set Includes Flat, Flat Warding, Square, Triangular, Round, and Half-Round File. - - Amazon.com
PFERD 11133 Plastic File Handle For 12"-16" Files: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00018AD0I/
Nicholson Flat Hand File for Aluminum, American Pattern, Double Cut, Rectangular, Fine, 10" Length: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Osborn International 75116SP Steel File Card, 3-3/4" Brush Area Length: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Simonds Flat Hand File for Aluminum, American Pattern, Double Cut, Rectangular, Coarse, 8" Length, 25/32" Width, 9/64" Thickness: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Needle File Set (HIGHEST QUALITY 6 PIECE SET) Hardened Alloy Strength Steel - Mini Needle File Set Includes Flat, Flat Warding, Square, Triangular, Round, and Half-Round File. - - Amazon.com
PFERD 11133 Plastic File Handle For 12"-16" Files: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00018AD0I/
Mark,
FWIW I bought those same Amazon files you listed (6 pieces, third from last link). I don’t think I’ll ever buy an off brand file again. One broke almost immediately.
Someone above mentioned a higher quality file from McMaster Carr I might try.
I’m not that picky, I just don’t like to buy something over and over again.
Ive had pretty mixed results from stuff from Amazon that’s gray / ambiguous from overseas and usually has about 5 different brand names for the identical item.
FWIW I bought those same Amazon files you listed (6 pieces, third from last link). I don’t think I’ll ever buy an off brand file again. One broke almost immediately.
Someone above mentioned a higher quality file from McMaster Carr I might try.
I’m not that picky, I just don’t like to buy something over and over again.
Ive had pretty mixed results from stuff from Amazon that’s gray / ambiguous from overseas and usually has about 5 different brand names for the identical item.
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