Hi,
Has anyone successfully used a router with a roundover bit, to round veneered mdf?
I like the idea of building the box out of veneered mdf sheet, then finishing off the edges with a router.
I'm concerned the veneer might catch and rip off, which won't happen when doing a straight cut with the right quality tools.
If not roundover, how about a 45 bit?
Many thanks
Has anyone successfully used a router with a roundover bit, to round veneered mdf?
I like the idea of building the box out of veneered mdf sheet, then finishing off the edges with a router.
I'm concerned the veneer might catch and rip off, which won't happen when doing a straight cut with the right quality tools.
If not roundover, how about a 45 bit?
Many thanks
Just to clarify: you have *already* veneered the panels and then want to put roundovers onto the corners? That simply wont work, and you'd need to look at using solid wood corners that you join to the veneered panels.
If you mean making an MDF box with roundovers on the corners *then* applying veneer -- yes, it's doable. The corners are a pain for sure, so if you can put a generous roundover (0.75"/19mm or greater), then the curvature is pretty manageable. I've done 1/2" and it's not exactly fun.
If you mean making an MDF box with roundovers on the corners *then* applying veneer -- yes, it's doable. The corners are a pain for sure, so if you can put a generous roundover (0.75"/19mm or greater), then the curvature is pretty manageable. I've done 1/2" and it's not exactly fun.
Thanks for reply. Considered building an mdf box (whether straight edged or rounded edge) then veneering but I'm not confident I'll get the finish. I'm a perfectionist and would hate to build the box then ruin the veneering.
I actually meant pre veneered mdf panels. Link below
Veneered MDF Black Walnut Sheeting Cut To Size
Then using the router to round the edges. I'd be content staining the bare rounded mdf edges. I think this is what BKELEC do with their subwoofers, unless they use a wood quadrant on the edges, I'm not sure.
I actually meant pre veneered mdf panels. Link below
Veneered MDF Black Walnut Sheeting Cut To Size
Then using the router to round the edges. I'd be content staining the bare rounded mdf edges. I think this is what BKELEC do with their subwoofers, unless they use a wood quadrant on the edges, I'm not sure.
Okay, I see what you mean now. If you can get some scrap, then I'd recommend taking a razor blade and making a score line at the roundover edge to reduce the chance of chip out. I've used a laminate trim bit to clean up the edges (namely on the driver cut outs) without issue.
My gut instinct is to say that the look of MDF edges with walnut veneer will be pretty undesirable, sadly. Any future projects I do with rounded baffles will use solid wood at least in the corners, if not the entire front (with a constrained layer damping to plywood) to avoid veneering the roundover. Flat panels with sharp edges aren't bad to veneer, though, in my experience.
My gut instinct is to say that the look of MDF edges with walnut veneer will be pretty undesirable, sadly. Any future projects I do with rounded baffles will use solid wood at least in the corners, if not the entire front (with a constrained layer damping to plywood) to avoid veneering the roundover. Flat panels with sharp edges aren't bad to veneer, though, in my experience.
Thanks appreciate your advice. I just really don't trust my veneering skills. So my optons are to -
1. Use the pre-veneered mdf for all sides but then use solid walnut quadrants to mate the edges flush.l (concealing the mdf ends of the sheets)
2. Use pre-veneered mdf then use lengthe of straight solid walnut to almost frame all the edges.
3. Use plywood (router the edges however I want) then finish with a walnut stain, to try and replicate a walnut finish or at least colour.
Thanks again
1. Use the pre-veneered mdf for all sides but then use solid walnut quadrants to mate the edges flush.l (concealing the mdf ends of the sheets)
2. Use pre-veneered mdf then use lengthe of straight solid walnut to almost frame all the edges.
3. Use plywood (router the edges however I want) then finish with a walnut stain, to try and replicate a walnut finish or at least colour.
Thanks again
Then why would you even be considering MDF for a woofer? Not the best material, and you end up with more back-strain. Plywood is not only lighter, but 15mm quality ply will give you better performance then 18mm mdf.
If you veneer before you round-over you will end up with a constrasting edge which if stained in a creative manner can be a nice touch.
Do note that with a woofer a roundover will only be cosmetic (if we ignore what a sharp end can do if you do a face plant against the corner) because the wavelengths are so much longer.
dave
Re #3 above - even with the highest quality veneer faced veneer core plywood, the cross-banded edge plies will take stain very unevenly. I'd suggest something along the lines of Daniel's recommendation, or the example in Laszlo's photo - was that veneer or thin solid?
Also note that if inlaying solid as edge detail to be wary that when sanding flush that the veneer is thin enough to sand through - more so in my experience on MDF core. BTW in the millwork trade, MDF with veneer faces is technically classified by most suppliers as "a plywood"
Daniel - without getting into the argument of MDF vs VC plywood, I'll note that having built a few speakers myself, post veneering a cabinet with edges either beveled in any direction, or rounded over in the long grain direction is easy enough - certainly with the larger radii you suggest - but a radius in the cross grain is tricky, and of course rounded corners are virtually impossible - which is where inlaid solid edging come into play.
This one was a challenge - in the days before I abandoned MDF altogether - the carcass was 1" MDF core dadoed into BB plywood matrix braced frame, with 1/4" veneer plywood, and cherry solid inlaid on all vertical and horizontal edges. Never had a scale in the shop, but they must have been 200lbs a piece - definitely my most time consuming build.
Also note that if inlaying solid as edge detail to be wary that when sanding flush that the veneer is thin enough to sand through - more so in my experience on MDF core. BTW in the millwork trade, MDF with veneer faces is technically classified by most suppliers as "a plywood"
Daniel - without getting into the argument of MDF vs VC plywood, I'll note that having built a few speakers myself, post veneering a cabinet with edges either beveled in any direction, or rounded over in the long grain direction is easy enough - certainly with the larger radii you suggest - but a radius in the cross grain is tricky, and of course rounded corners are virtually impossible - which is where inlaid solid edging come into play.
This one was a challenge - in the days before I abandoned MDF altogether - the carcass was 1" MDF core dadoed into BB plywood matrix braced frame, with 1/4" veneer plywood, and cherry solid inlaid on all vertical and horizontal edges. Never had a scale in the shop, but they must have been 200lbs a piece - definitely my most time consuming build.
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For the same customer (retail shop in town), those were a much simpler build - single layer of veneer core Sapele with solid mahogany edging. Terry wanted a retro vibe. As Dave noted, a disappointing performer on two fronts - the PHY full rangers were sadly lacking on the top end, and the TQWP "design" was a joke. I kinda liked the look, though
Inlaid solid edging appears to be the answer then. Thanks for everyone's response, really appreciated.
Just out of interest, is this what you suspect BKElec do with their sub enclosures? For example -
Monolith Walnut
Just out of interest, is this what you suspect BKElec do with their sub enclosures? For example -
Monolith Walnut
Very tidily done gentleman! I'll take a pic later of bending veneer both along and across the grain.
But, yes, solid banding is so much better. I think we're all in agreement there.
Didn't know that Veneer over MDF is commonly called plywood, I've just seen enough of it around. And we don't need to necessarily get into the mdf/plywood disagreement, just meant to point that veneer over MDF is pretty common and no need to jump on the guy about materials.
Happy Friday everyone!
But, yes, solid banding is so much better. I think we're all in agreement there.
Didn't know that Veneer over MDF is commonly called plywood, I've just seen enough of it around. And we don't need to necessarily get into the mdf/plywood disagreement, just meant to point that veneer over MDF is pretty common and no need to jump on the guy about materials.
Happy Friday everyone!
Daniel - probably not common parlance - more one of those arcane trade distinctions. While I definitely have my opinion on materials - based not only on the practical advantages of the lighter materials and sonic differences - there's no point beating someone up over their own decisions.
Why wouldn't BK take the time to centre the veneer grain figuring on the visible panels? Sure it takes a bit more time and can lower material yield, but it speaks volumes about detail to craftsmanship. Just one of my pet peeves, I guess
Why wouldn't BK take the time to centre the veneer grain figuring on the visible panels? Sure it takes a bit more time and can lower material yield, but it speaks volumes about detail to craftsmanship. Just one of my pet peeves, I guess
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Something I haven't done in a long time, but I would try it if I was doing solid corners like being suggested here: Install the hardwood corners first, then veneer over the hardwood. When the corners are rounded the veneer will have a bevel that blends nicely into the hardwood. The appearance will look seamless if the veneer was applied in a clamp/press setup with colored veneer glue.
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The big one is… the TQWP was the Phy recommended enclosure for the 8”. Both were poor.
dave
Thanks everyone. From an assembly point of view, where the solid edge meets the panels, would you make these flush when assembling,/glueing by careful alignment - or would you oversize the solid edging then router it all so it's flush with the panels? The latter is my guess. So if I was ordering 26mm panels, id order say 28mm x 28mm solid straight lengths. So after assembly/glueing, the excess can be router'd off for perfectly smooth finish
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