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Rounding veneered mdf, possibly?
Rounding veneered mdf, possibly?
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Old 27th January 2018, 02:46 PM   #21
Joel Wesseling is offline Joel Wesseling  Canada
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Oversize and then trim is best.

Also,over time, the hardwood can expand or contract and create a step, depends on the hardwood and humidity. On the this speaker that I made, I over sized and then trimmed flush with a flushing V-groove bit, then I rounded over the edges. I like a visual separation between baffle and panel. Next time I will cut(practice first) a v-groove right where the veneer meets the hardwood, most of the V cutting into hardwood as not to cut through veneer and into the substrate - This will remove any possible glue-line, allow hardwood to expand a little and not be obvious, and add visual interest. Many other profiling ideas are possible for this type of edge design.
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Old 27th January 2018, 04:19 PM   #22
DPH is offline DPH  United States
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Similar gaps here, Joel, except we deliberately routed away a small bit of the side get it.

Things not recommended: 1/2" (12.5 mm) roundover and veneering. E.g. this:
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Old 27th January 2018, 07:12 PM   #23
Joel Wesseling is offline Joel Wesseling  Canada
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Looks good, Daniel!

That's what I was aiming for but I got to scared.
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Old 27th January 2018, 07:53 PM   #24
boswald is offline boswald  United States
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Rounding veneered mdf, possibly?
No reason to get scared. It takes less time to redo veneer than paint. And a protective finish can be as easy as a wipe-on.(or as complex as you like)
If your time is worth anything it's a wash or cheaper than paint without a fancy shop(and all those hours to get both good and fast).



(I still like a deep candy apple finish, though I need to be paid to do it.)
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Old 27th January 2018, 08:49 PM   #25
Mario Pankov is offline Mario Pankov  Europe
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Rounding veneered mdf, possibly?
The hardwood rounded profiles, at least those i can get here, would be of hardwood or some pine. I think they`d open up gaps after some time due to difference in thermal expansion. You can veneer all over - I`ve done down to 1/2" radius and that at 90 degrees to the strain - it is possible but needs paper tape on the outside to prevent the veneer from craking, then it bends. Out of 7 such loudspeakers, one cracked once and once it had an airgap so had to be removed and reveneered, but considering the small radius, I would call it a success. If you use a larger roundover bit on a table, it could be much easier. I`ve not done 1" or similar but think they should be much easier.
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Old 27th January 2018, 09:34 PM   #26
DPH is offline DPH  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Wesseling View Post
Looks good, Daniel!

That's what I was aiming for but I got to scared.
I have no intentions of redoing this effort -- solid wood in the corners is so much better.

But thanks! The boxes definitely look great in person. There are bubbles under the embedded magnets (for theoretical grills), sadly, but c'est la vie.
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Old 28th January 2018, 03:18 PM   #27
mart34 is offline mart34  England
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Really impressed with the designs put up in this thread. Thanks everyone. Highly skilled forum members
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Old 28th January 2018, 08:11 PM   #28
Joel Wesseling is offline Joel Wesseling  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPH View Post
I have no intentions of redoing this effort -- solid wood in the corners is so much better.

But thanks! The boxes definitely look great in person. There are bubbles under the embedded magnets (for theoretical grills), sadly, but c'est la vie.
I think I missed something, that your fronts are veneered?

My front panel is solid walnut. I plan to make a few in this manner with various hardwood species.
Also, for Painting, I'll solid poplar fronts.
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Old 31st January 2018, 08:14 PM   #29
DPH is offline DPH  United States
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Oh! Yes, Joel, these are all veneer. And doing the veneer around these corners was a giant PITA.
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Old 1st February 2018, 07:23 AM   #30
mart34 is offline mart34  England
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Daniel. I have no idea how you veneered those edges, that's pure skill right there
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