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Yamaha DXR15 Broken screw Pin
Yamaha DXR15 Broken screw Pin
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Old 26th November 2017, 11:20 PM   #1
MAAC0 is offline MAAC0  Portugal
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Default Yamaha DXR15 Broken screw Pin

I Need Your Help:

On ABS cabinets what do You use for repairing this things, or Better how do You repair those things.

What I've tried so far was Superglue first to secure the pin wrapped with a piece of electrical tubing around with Araldite.

It doesn't work well, the problem is, when I attach the screw on the front baffle, it forces the pin upwards and it breaks again. Sometimes the broken pin rotates with the screw.

Did the same again and used that two components bar "plasticine" that gets stone hard around but it didn't help either. It cracks.

You see on top of the picture is the recess for the handle. The woofer installs on the right side of that round shaped "bracket" You see on the left side with silicone. So it is a critical "pressure / vibration position"
There was a slight rattle one time and I caulked the brace before.

What about an L-Shaped iron or aluminium bracket glued to the side ?.
I Could make a hole on it and attach a nut from the inside before assembling the driver.
I'm afraid it could break the cabinet side or even the baffle when experiencing a major shock.
Those cabinets aren't at a fixed installation, they travel every week.

What about a wood block glued to the side and the screw attaches to it ?
What glue would work here ?

I could dump the cabinet and make a wood cabinet for it using the front baffle but it would add weight.

Any ideas ?

Thank You
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Old 1st December 2017, 06:43 PM   #2
MAAC0 is offline MAAC0  Portugal
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
No ideas anyone ?
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Old 2nd December 2017, 02:38 PM   #3
russc is offline russc  England
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: W Yorkshire
Cut the remaining plastic "tube" and wing off.
Roughen the wall of the cabinet.
Glue a block of wood or MDF in its place.
If using wood, orientate it so you are not screwing into the end of the grain.
The block will fit against the side of the cabinet and down to the horizontal face shown in the photo. Araldite will make a strong bond.
Drill a suitable pilot hole for the screw. Take care not to split the wood when first driving the screw in. Voila! Stronger than new.
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Old 3rd December 2017, 05:28 PM   #4
MAAC0 is offline MAAC0  Portugal
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
That's what I've done but used no nails glue since I find Araldite not strong enough. I had to trim the wood on the upper size in order to fit the baffle because of the speaker round thingy and it's no assembled yet because there was a crack on one of baffle holes. it's glueing now. Tomorrow I post results.

I believe I'm going to make new carpented wooden cabinets...
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Old 4th December 2017, 10:01 PM   #5
MAAC0 is offline MAAC0  Portugal
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
OK Assembled the whole thing but it kept rattling. Upon closer inspection I found that the screw tubes have all cracks on the wall side. Time do do some woodworking....
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Old 19th May 2019, 01:23 AM   #6
MAAC0 is offline MAAC0  Portugal
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
The speaker is working like new after some woodworking. Since the recessed hole end were the screw rests was broken. I used a longer screw and a washer and fixed the front baffle in order to force it down. I had to put some washers on the backside in order to fill the gap where the cabinet tube for attaching the screws enter so it stays flush with the wood and doesn't brake when screwing the new longer screws.

Now, the other speaker doesn't turn on... or does sometimes. If I lay it down and press power it works, if it's on a stand sometimes it doesn't turn on.
Time to disassemble the amp and look for a bad switch or broken solder...
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Old 21st May 2019, 10:24 PM   #7
MAAC0 is offline MAAC0  Portugal
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Found the cause. 6.8 Ohm / 5W surge limiting resistor in the PSU had a broken leg.
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