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Can an enclosure be too thick?
Can an enclosure be too thick?
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Old 17th February 2017, 09:41 PM   #11
Lutjanus is offline Lutjanus  Australia
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Default Can an enclosure be too thick?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan Bright View Post
How's the finances Lutjanus? You up for building two (or more) and letting us know the results of a comparison test.
Btw if you chase up panels/box construction threads here at diyaudio it won't be long before you will find post that are quite critical of MDF for a couple of reasons.
(a) apparently there health issues with the dust and
(b) there seems to be a widespread consensus that MDF sounds inferior to other materials especially plywood. It is noticeable that there is agreement on this point that MDF "sucks the life out of the music" and comments along those lines.....
Good luck in the noble art of DIY speakers.
I am not sure if there are support groups for addicts but be warned.......it is addictive ha ha.
Cheers Jonathan


Jonathan, you raise a good point about the health issues associated with MDF. I am aware of the resins and glues used and what they contain.

I have also read many opinions on how the MDF can sometimes suck the life out of speakers.

I actually prefer plywood for my enclosures, but I already have the MDF on hand.

Building two speakers with differing wall thicknesses is definitely and option and I could use my basic speaker measurement (holm impulse/rew & ECM microphone) to display the differences.

Last edited by Lutjanus; 17th February 2017 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 18th February 2017, 02:48 AM   #12
Jonathan Bright is offline Jonathan Bright  Australia
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Thanks Lutjanus, people usually don't even reply to my posts ha ha.
Cheers Jonathan
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Old 18th February 2017, 05:30 AM   #13
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutjanus View Post
I am looking to build some speaker enclosures with some 16mm MDF that I already have.

I am thinking of using multiple layers to create the front, rear and side panels.

Is there a point of diminishing returns when constructing enclosures, in regards to wall thickness?
Acoustically? ... no.

It might create other problems , such as excessive weight or size, but thatīs something else.

In fact, thereīs people who built their enclosures out of concrete, go figure.

In fact you could find or build a cave on a mountain side, close its mouth with bricks, concrete, rocks or thick wood, and mount your speaker there.

You will be fine, unless Muhammad is nearby.
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Old 18th February 2017, 08:58 AM   #14
scottjoplin is offline scottjoplin  Wales
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan Bright View Post
Thanks Lutjanus, people usually don't even reply to my posts ha ha.
Cheers Jonathan
Ahhh.......I did.....remember.....tis only polite
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Old 24th February 2017, 08:16 AM   #15
markusA is offline markusA  Sweden
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*Flamesuit on*
I'm going to stick my neck out and go against all generally accepted rules of thumb. When I built my last pair of speakers I focused on well established laws of physics instead of "known hifi how-to-do". My woofer cabinets are much smaller than they "should" be and the walls are downright flimsy compared to the tanks you see out there. It still worked out great!
I use electronics to compensate for the size, the walls are thin sandwiched plywood, the cabinet dimensions are chosen to minimize standing waves, the woofer placement is chosen to use in-room acoustics, internal bracing is designed to minimize vibrations and so on.
So, I have 15" woofers in nice tidy little boxes that blend in with the furniture and the bass stretches down to 25-30Hz or so. Neither my speakers nor my amps are even breaking a sweat when it's loud enough for me to want to leave the room.
So, why am I raving about this? I'm not trying to suggest that my choices are in any way superior to other methods of construction.
Dare to go your own way, read up on your physics and focus on what you want! I focused on my needs and chose my design accordingly, so can you. And when you're done you know that the speakers are really your own design are done the way you want them. There are more than one way to skin a cat...
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Old 25th February 2017, 04:37 AM   #16
GM is offline GM  United States
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True, brace it properly and you can 'skin' even a large cab with thin paneling and get it stiff enough for high power output, though its bracing complexity will remind one of a '60 Birdcage Maserati's frame : https://thejudge13.files.wordpress.c...e-birdcage.png

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Old 3rd November 2017, 08:57 PM   #17
azred is offline azred  United States
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I have a similar question regarding the thickness of the enclosure, and was hoping for some insight.

First off, I do NOT consider myself an audiophile. While I appreciate a high sound quality, I am using cheap, low-powered components. This is more an exercise in woodwork for me, and my budget prohibits much else.

Long story short, I am using a the components of a pair of $15 bluetooth speakers (with surprising quality for being so cheap) for the build, because it's what I have on hand. I also have another speaker that I have parted out as well. The only info I have about them is that I have a pair of 3" 4ohm/5watt drivers, a pair of 3" 3ohm/3watt, and a pair of 2" 4ohm/3watt. All were originally powered by 3.7vdc battery packs.

I have a bit of 3/4" MDF lying around, but I was wanting to use Baltic birch plywood because it's what I'm familiar with.

Is 18mm ply overkill for such a project? Should I go thinner? Am I overthinking this?
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Old 3rd November 2017, 10:21 PM   #18
chrisb is offline chrisb
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The 18 BB is probably overkill in terms of the structural integrity required for such a small system - 12mm would more than suffice.

A critical factor with very small full range drivers is they generally have very shallow mounting depths that thicker materials can create a resonant chamber at the rear side of the through hole. I alway chamfer them with a 45dg bevel as deeply as the material and location of screw mounting holes will allow.
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Old 4th November 2017, 01:37 AM   #19
azred is offline azred  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
The 18 BB is probably overkill in terms of the structural integrity required for such a small system - 12mm would more than suffice.

A critical factor with very small full range drivers is they generally have very shallow mounting depths that thicker materials can create a resonant chamber at the rear side of the through hole. I alway chamfer them with a 45dg bevel as deeply as the material and location of screw mounting holes will allow.
So if I understand you correctly, I need to make sure the magnet is fully inside of the enclosure.

If this is right, would I be correct to extrapolate that the height of the cone (without magnet) would be an ideal thickness for the mounting face? This obviously would be impractical for larger drivers, but is this a decent rule of thumb for small drivers?
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Old 4th November 2017, 02:17 AM   #20
PRR is offline PRR  United States
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The main problem with too-thick is you blow all your profit.

Small DIY work, that is not an issue.

The cabinet is bigger than it needs to be. I have some 5" thick wood slabs, which would be astonishingly big (and heavy!) for a 3" cone speaker box.

As chrisb says, the cone needs LOTS of clearance to flap/chuff as designed. For 3" speakers, I would be 1/4" panel for at least an inch back from the speaker. A bevel may be almost as good, but complicates mounting screws; I'd screw the driver to thin ply and mount that on a bigger hole on your lovely thick stuff.
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