So far my soldering projects have not gone further than cables. I am using Sn60Pb40 with no mention of a flux core on the package.
I have not had any issues with my cable soldering (apart from fiddling with smalle 3,5mm jacks) but is it correct that I should be using flux or is this more for plumbing?
I am about to build speakers and I need to solder a resistor and an inductor in parallel. Should I put the connecting wires in the same joint?
Is there really a risk when soldering to gold plated terminals?
I have not had any issues with my cable soldering (apart from fiddling with smalle 3,5mm jacks) but is it correct that I should be using flux or is this more for plumbing?
I am about to build speakers and I need to solder a resistor and an inductor in parallel. Should I put the connecting wires in the same joint?
Is there really a risk when soldering to gold plated terminals?
This is overkill for the task at hand but here's a good 3 (i think) part soldering tutorial, a good watch if you have the time
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ
My solder does appear to have a flux core and it flows very well.
I just did my filters. I stranded the pret-inned inductor and inductor wires together, then I ran the one of the joints through the pre-tinned hole of the lug from the binding post and soldered that as well.
I will probably not win any prizes but the joints have the same shine as the solder wire, I can still see the stranding, the ohmmeter says it's good and I can lift the coil with just the lug or the resistor so I guess it will do nicely.
I just did my filters. I stranded the pret-inned inductor and inductor wires together, then I ran the one of the joints through the pre-tinned hole of the lug from the binding post and soldered that as well.
I will probably not win any prizes but the joints have the same shine as the solder wire, I can still see the stranding, the ohmmeter says it's good and I can lift the coil with just the lug or the resistor so I guess it will do nicely.
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Those connections did not get hot enough and it appears you may have tried to 'paint' with the soldering iron. When it gets hot enough, solder on the terminal will not have irregular areas and the surface will have a smooth contour with no 'high spots'.
It's actually hard to ruin parts by soldering if the tools are good. Bad tools get too hot and can't deliver heat fast enough so you tend to stay on the joint to long. Worse tools don't even deliver enough heat on any connection.
I use Weller Magnastats for many years and they are OK. I'm told Hakkos do better for less money. I currently run Metcals and will not give them up. After a Metcal, everything else is a soldering 'tusk'.
G²
Do you suggest reheating the joint on the terminals to allow it to flow more evenly?
My iron is an entry level 30W. Upgrading to something more fancy is not really an option for me at the moment.
If it were mine I would but it might get tricky unless the lug will stay in position even when the solder is liquid.
Sorry about the tools situation.
G²
I used a $7 radio shack 25watt iron for decades. They work. Are there better, easier irons? Absolutely. Is the RS iron useable? Sure it is. Good soldering technique will make up for a crappy iron most of the time. With those crappy irons I only ever damaged switches with too much heat, and only about 4 in 30 years. Soldering is a skill that takes practice to master. Keep at it. You'll get better with time.
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