Hi to all. I'm new on the forum and also new on building speaker cases. I have this parts :
2 x Dibeisi b1241
Max Power: 300W
Impedance: 4 ohms
Sensitivity: 92dB
Frequency: 25Hz - 4kHz
Magnet: 50 Oz
2 x g5002
Power max: 40W
Impedance: 4 ohms
Sensitivity: 91dB
Frequency: 500Hz - 10kHz
Magnet: 10 Oz
2 x Tweeter Piezzo F32
85x85 * 100 W * 91 dB * 500Hz-20kHz
2 x Filter 3-way car 200w 4ohm HV 623
• maximum load 200 W
• crossing frequency: 700/5.000 Hz
• Cutting gradient: 6 dB / octave
• connecting plugs gold
Can anybody help me with the dimensions, building techniques or other advises regarding the components ? Thank you !
2 x Dibeisi b1241
Max Power: 300W
Impedance: 4 ohms
Sensitivity: 92dB
Frequency: 25Hz - 4kHz
Magnet: 50 Oz
2 x g5002
Power max: 40W
Impedance: 4 ohms
Sensitivity: 91dB
Frequency: 500Hz - 10kHz
Magnet: 10 Oz
2 x Tweeter Piezzo F32
85x85 * 100 W * 91 dB * 500Hz-20kHz
2 x Filter 3-way car 200w 4ohm HV 623
• maximum load 200 W
• crossing frequency: 700/5.000 Hz
• Cutting gradient: 6 dB / octave
• connecting plugs gold
Can anybody help me with the dimensions, building techniques or other advises regarding the components ? Thank you !
You need a lot of other informations about your drivers ( read Thiele & Small parameters ) to achieve this goal.
This could be an issue due to the car-audio nature of your components.
After you get theese parameters ( there are softwares tha can help you measuring ) you have to put them in a simulation software and start playing with dimensions, porting, damping and so on....
Good luck and learning !
Cheers !
This could be an issue due to the car-audio nature of your components.
After you get theese parameters ( there are softwares tha can help you measuring ) you have to put them in a simulation software and start playing with dimensions, porting, damping and so on....
Good luck and learning !
Cheers !
That was clear !
I doubt wou'll find here much more than some summary suggests but .... try !
A rough guess is to use the vented box that the manufacturer has designed for the woofers. It's OK to change dimensions as long as the total volume inside doesn't change. The port diameter and length shouldn't be changed, though. The smaller speaker (5" ?) should probably be in a subenclosure, sealed off from the main box. That volume will have be subtracted when calculating the total box volume.
When it comes to building, it's very very good to have a router equipped with a flush trimming bit. That allows you to cut some box panels oversize, then trim them exactly. You can remove roughly sawn edges, or trim a bunch of panels to the same size. It allows you to make a nice-looking box that you don't have to apologize for without a table saw. With a simple circle jig that you can make yourself, and a straight or spiral bit, you can cut _perfectly_ round holes for drivers. As a last resort, a router can even be used to cut up panels by taking multiple passes along a straight edge. (A long straight-edge is essential as a reference... a piece of shelving with a finished laminate edge can work. Or the factory machined edge of a sheet of MDF.) It's useful to get the lumberyard where you buy the plywood (or MDF or particle board) to make some preliminary cuts. This makes it much easier to transport, and can save you making long awkward cuts at home.
A router is the single greatest power tool for speaker building. Between 2nd hand and "made in China" you may be able to get a router and a set of carbide bits for under $50 (or Euros).
For holding the cabinet together, I use butt joints, white glue, and countersunk decking screws. Since the glue should provide the real strength, temporary clamps, nails, or staples may be good enough. A router could cut more elaborate joints that look better and are stronger than butt joints, if you're willing to make the extra effort in setting up the cuts. I usually fill the countersink holes with dowel plugs, which are then trimmed flush with the router. This looks very nice on a varnished plywood cabinet, at least if the screws are evenly spaced. On painted cabinets, the plugs don't stay perfectly flush over time (moisture affects wooden plugs differently than MDF...). Wood filler or auto body filler may be easier. Or just wrap the box in "rat fur" carpet or real animal skins.
A router is the single greatest power tool for speaker building. Between 2nd hand and "made in China" you may be able to get a router and a set of carbide bits for under $50 (or Euros).
For holding the cabinet together, I use butt joints, white glue, and countersunk decking screws. Since the glue should provide the real strength, temporary clamps, nails, or staples may be good enough. A router could cut more elaborate joints that look better and are stronger than butt joints, if you're willing to make the extra effort in setting up the cuts. I usually fill the countersink holes with dowel plugs, which are then trimmed flush with the router. This looks very nice on a varnished plywood cabinet, at least if the screws are evenly spaced. On painted cabinets, the plugs don't stay perfectly flush over time (moisture affects wooden plugs differently than MDF...). Wood filler or auto body filler may be easier. Or just wrap the box in "rat fur" carpet or real animal skins.
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