Hi guys
I need some help / ideas. I am making some speaker enclosures using pre-veneered mdf panels. That's great but the edges do not come pre-veneered.
I am contemplating whether I should veneer the edges too or whether I can just treat the bare mdf edges with a lacquer or other sealant.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Evan
I need some help / ideas. I am making some speaker enclosures using pre-veneered mdf panels. That's great but the edges do not come pre-veneered.
I am contemplating whether I should veneer the edges too or whether I can just treat the bare mdf edges with a lacquer or other sealant.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Evan
Like Steve says, iron-on veneer is a good choice. It comes in rolls with a hot-melt glue on one side. Lay it in place and heat with an iron (used for ironing clothes, you can get a cheap used one from a thrift store). You'll have a slight overhang of the veneer on both sides, don't worry about that. When it's cooled, trim the edges flush with a veneer trimmer. It fits over the edge and has a built-in blade that trims the veneer flush with the edge and chamfers it slightly.
Ronseal - Product Details - Wet Rot Wood Hardener
I use the above on MDF edges, especially where I've routed round overs or other shapes, sets solid.
I use the above on MDF edges, especially where I've routed round overs or other shapes, sets solid.
Veneer works ok if you have the cuts offset so that it is flush. You can feather it as well but run the risk of sanding through the veneer and leaving an uneven edge. A common solution is to rabbet the edge and glue in a piece of solid wood and then round over that. i.e. a 1/2" roundover would need a 1/2" rabbet with a 1/2" x 1/2" solid wood glued in.
If you are leaving the edges square then just miter it. I use biscuits or a solid strip to provide strength to the joint. If you have a table saw the later is easy to do.
If you are leaving the edges square then just miter it. I use biscuits or a solid strip to provide strength to the joint. If you have a table saw the later is easy to do.
If you really want to hide the MDF edges forever - don't produce them. There is absolutely no possibility to have them invisible for a longer time. They'll always come through, you just have to wait long enough. Even through veneer.
You can't hide them, so use shadow gaps to enforce them. Or, even better, mitre you panels, so there will be no edges.
You can't hide them, so use shadow gaps to enforce them. Or, even better, mitre you panels, so there will be no edges.
Hi there, I thought I should give a little update.
The idea of mitred corners is good but I already had the panels ordered and there not designed for mitring. Besides I do want to have chamfered edges anyway in order to avoid sound diffraction, therefore there will always be exposed mdf edges.
I thought and tested edging of the same material as the veneer i.e. teak. This works well on flat edges but it's a difficult job to apply edging on chamfers and the results of my work would be bad to the eye. Another problem with edging is that applying it on ordered panels (designed for no edging) results in change in dimensions which means that the panels won't fit correctly together (especially problematic with thick edging).
The solution?
I am applying clear varnish on both exposed mdf edges and the teak veneered panels. I have only tested it on a small part of the speakers and the result is great. Much better than you might think.
I am using satin clear varnish and 2 coats on the teak veneer and 3 coats on the mdf edges. This gives a good result which the edges becoming slightly darker than the veneer but the contrast is actually good. I tried coloured varnish on both but the result was not so good, too dark for my liking and too patchy if varnish is not applied correctly (forget brushes, even with pads there were problems).
So there you have it. Clear satin varnish works well on teak veneer and mdf edges.
I am currently building the speakers so I will post pictures once finished.
Cheers.
The idea of mitred corners is good but I already had the panels ordered and there not designed for mitring. Besides I do want to have chamfered edges anyway in order to avoid sound diffraction, therefore there will always be exposed mdf edges.
I thought and tested edging of the same material as the veneer i.e. teak. This works well on flat edges but it's a difficult job to apply edging on chamfers and the results of my work would be bad to the eye. Another problem with edging is that applying it on ordered panels (designed for no edging) results in change in dimensions which means that the panels won't fit correctly together (especially problematic with thick edging).
The solution?
I am applying clear varnish on both exposed mdf edges and the teak veneered panels. I have only tested it on a small part of the speakers and the result is great. Much better than you might think.
I am using satin clear varnish and 2 coats on the teak veneer and 3 coats on the mdf edges. This gives a good result which the edges becoming slightly darker than the veneer but the contrast is actually good. I tried coloured varnish on both but the result was not so good, too dark for my liking and too patchy if varnish is not applied correctly (forget brushes, even with pads there were problems).
So there you have it. Clear satin varnish works well on teak veneer and mdf edges.
I am currently building the speakers so I will post pictures once finished.
Cheers.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.