I recently built a pair of Fostex BLH in beech ply (not birch).
I can't compare the sound with other materials, since this is my first pair of quality speakers, and they blow away anything I've had before. I never heard other horn/TL/QW designs.
At any rate, I find the beech ply to be very visually pleasing. I still have to decide on a finish, though...
I can't compare the sound with other materials, since this is my first pair of quality speakers, and they blow away anything I've had before. I never heard other horn/TL/QW designs.
At any rate, I find the beech ply to be very visually pleasing. I still have to decide on a finish, though...
if anyone's interested in urushi lacquer, feastrex used on nessie style cabinets @ RMAF 2008:
Effects of oriental lacquer (urushi) coating on the vibrational properties of wood used for the soundboards of musical instruments
Abstract:
In order to investigate the possibility of Oriental lacquer (urushi) as a coating for the wooden-soundboard of musical instruments, the effects of urushi coatings on the vibrational properties of wood were compared to those of conventional coatings. By coating, the dynamic Young’s modulus of wood decreased slightly in its fiber direction whereas that in the radial direction increased. The most remarkable changes due to coating were recognized in the internal friction of wood (Q-1), especially that in the radial direction. The effect of the urushi coating on the Q-1 of wood was relatively small and very close to those of polyurethane coating used for the soundboard of harp. The viscoelastic and mechanical properties of urushi lacquer films were also similar to those of the polyurethane lacquer film. These results suggested the possibility of urushi as a coating for the harp soundboard. The effects of coatings on the vibrational properties of wood were explained by using a model considering three layers, the uncoated wood, coating layer, and a layer consisting of lacquer and wood cell wall.
The rest of the paper is @: http://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/ast/22/1/27/_pdf
Effects of oriental lacquer (urushi) coating on the vibrational properties of wood used for the soundboards of musical instruments
Abstract:
In order to investigate the possibility of Oriental lacquer (urushi) as a coating for the wooden-soundboard of musical instruments, the effects of urushi coatings on the vibrational properties of wood were compared to those of conventional coatings. By coating, the dynamic Young’s modulus of wood decreased slightly in its fiber direction whereas that in the radial direction increased. The most remarkable changes due to coating were recognized in the internal friction of wood (Q-1), especially that in the radial direction. The effect of the urushi coating on the Q-1 of wood was relatively small and very close to those of polyurethane coating used for the soundboard of harp. The viscoelastic and mechanical properties of urushi lacquer films were also similar to those of the polyurethane lacquer film. These results suggested the possibility of urushi as a coating for the harp soundboard. The effects of coatings on the vibrational properties of wood were explained by using a model considering three layers, the uncoated wood, coating layer, and a layer consisting of lacquer and wood cell wall.
The rest of the paper is @: http://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/ast/22/1/27/_pdf
And now something completely different...
Saba Cello -a fullranger hard coupled to a resonating 3mm ply enclosure. For classical and jazz music only.
Saba Cello -a fullranger hard coupled to a resonating 3mm ply enclosure. For classical and jazz music only.
I have made several speakers out of 5/4 poplar, which dress out to about 1", and is available around Atlanta in long, wide, clear boards at about $1.50/sq ft. You will have little waste because widths of 5-12 are available. Also Basswood is about the same price and even softer and less resonate, but still available in wide, clear boards.
I have made 6-8 of Zaph's designs from soft, currly maple this fall because it is beautiful and cost $2.00/sq ft. I made two subs from a 7/8 thick, 12.5 wide, 9 ft board of beautiful soft curly maple.
I also just finished a set of Fostex 107E using the plans for BR enclosure Fostex provides, and 1/2" walnut because I had it around.
These woods come 2" thick also, if you want to make a BIG SUB.
I finish with Tung Oil and then light Shellac coat you hardly see.
I would be interested in what thoughts you have on my materials.
I love the way they sound. I'm 63 and everything sound great. Don't really know how mush of the spectrum I pick up, but love what I do.
Thanks
Bob
I have made 6-8 of Zaph's designs from soft, currly maple this fall because it is beautiful and cost $2.00/sq ft. I made two subs from a 7/8 thick, 12.5 wide, 9 ft board of beautiful soft curly maple.
I also just finished a set of Fostex 107E using the plans for BR enclosure Fostex provides, and 1/2" walnut because I had it around.
These woods come 2" thick also, if you want to make a BIG SUB.
I finish with Tung Oil and then light Shellac coat you hardly see.
I would be interested in what thoughts you have on my materials.
I love the way they sound. I'm 63 and everything sound great. Don't really know how mush of the spectrum I pick up, but love what I do.
Thanks
Bob
I'm looking at building some Sachikos and I've been shopping for the best material for the cabinet.
A local store carries 13 ply Baltic Birch and I'm pretty certain that's what I'm going to use at that's what they were designed around; however, despite the lack of popularity of MDF other people have said that it is more neutral and doesn't color the sound. My local store also carries veneered MDF in Baltic Birch, Cherry, Red Oak and Birch.
I'm leaning to the Cherry Veneered MDF as I like the look more than Birch as it may, I don't want to destroy the sound.
A local store carries 13 ply Baltic Birch and I'm pretty certain that's what I'm going to use at that's what they were designed around; however, despite the lack of popularity of MDF other people have said that it is more neutral and doesn't color the sound. My local store also carries veneered MDF in Baltic Birch, Cherry, Red Oak and Birch.
I'm leaning to the Cherry Veneered MDF as I like the look more than Birch as it may, I don't want to destroy the sound.
Hi all,
I'm about to build a pair of Zaph's B3S's, and thanks to the difficulty of finding good plywood in Australia, they'll be in MDF with a hardwood baffle.
My question is this: For someone with no experience in painting, finishing, or veneering, what's the easiest way to make MDF look nice? The baffles will probably be in Jarrah or Tasmanian Blackwood - both are dark, richly coloured timbers, and will clash quite nastily with "honey" colour of straight lacquered MDF. Ideally, the cabinets would be a nice gloss black, but I've heard that's nearly impossible.
Any ideas?
I'm about to build a pair of Zaph's B3S's, and thanks to the difficulty of finding good plywood in Australia, they'll be in MDF with a hardwood baffle.
My question is this: For someone with no experience in painting, finishing, or veneering, what's the easiest way to make MDF look nice? The baffles will probably be in Jarrah or Tasmanian Blackwood - both are dark, richly coloured timbers, and will clash quite nastily with "honey" colour of straight lacquered MDF. Ideally, the cabinets would be a nice gloss black, but I've heard that's nearly impossible.
Any ideas?
It all depends on what you will find acceptable. A true piano finish requires many layers of lacquer sprayed on and wet sanded. A quick and dirty finish can be done by rolling on a sandable primer and sanding to 600 grit, then rolling on acrylic enamel. This will give a light orange peel finish that isn't all that bad. The quality of the finish depends on the roller you use. I use a 1/4" nap synthetic roller for all of my household trim. For commercial speakers, consumers expect better, so I don't do this on speakers.
Materials will differ regionally. I use either Kilz or Zinser primers. Either will wet sand if allowed to dry a couple of days. Auto primer would be best, but would require spraying. Years ago, I would spray auto lacquer with a low pressure bleeder gun with good results, but that was back when the paint contained lots of solvents like benzene, toluene and xylene. I don't know if this is even possible with modern low solvent lacquers.
Bob
Materials will differ regionally. I use either Kilz or Zinser primers. Either will wet sand if allowed to dry a couple of days. Auto primer would be best, but would require spraying. Years ago, I would spray auto lacquer with a low pressure bleeder gun with good results, but that was back when the paint contained lots of solvents like benzene, toluene and xylene. I don't know if this is even possible with modern low solvent lacquers.
Bob
For my money, the easiest way to make MDF look nice, particularly if you're looking for a high gloss finish in a solid color, would be plastic laminate. (i.e. Formica, Arborite, Wilsonart, etc)
Bear in mind of course the requirement for special skills and equipment to wrap P-Lam around radius profiled edges,( thermo "post-forming" as in cove-topped countertops and wrapped doors) and that it can only be worked this way in one direction.
But for a simple rectangular enclosure, it could easily cost less and take less time than painting.
Bear in mind of course the requirement for special skills and equipment to wrap P-Lam around radius profiled edges,( thermo "post-forming" as in cove-topped countertops and wrapped doors) and that it can only be worked this way in one direction.
But for a simple rectangular enclosure, it could easily cost less and take less time than painting.
cervelorider said:
Amazing luck, I cut the dimension for voigt from OSD (not ideal material at all but laying around in the garage) and also have Pioneer B20s!. I will study your website carefully. I plan to stabilize the cabinet obviously with liberal use of stiffner's and braces...
My previous experience guarantee's that I will have to add a tweeter of some sort.
gychang