TPA3116 mono sub amp in a picture frame case from Ikea
Could you please tell us which piece of furniture from IKEA it is?
Looks really cool.
The Bamboozle, lol. A bamboo kitchen utensil holder and small cutting board. TDA7498 board, a Yeeco isolated DC-DC converter with USB jack to power the Dot. I used a 1/4" audio jack with 3.5mm adapter due to the thickness of the top board.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
Invisible amplifier
Small project for my home office. A TDA7492 PCB from Ebay and an old electronic Enclosure. I printed a holder for the PCB, Rectifier and Capacitors. A small circuit for the VU Meter with an OP Amp i also fit in the Enclosure. I Use also the Knobs from the original - so ON/OFF, Volume work with the same design before.
Invisible between the other measuring devices
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Quite international too, the unit says made in Denmark on the front, Leicester England on the back, and now has a chinese(?) amp inside sitting on your desk n Grmany!
Here is my TDA8932-based amplifier made for driving 4x woofers from two channels. So basically it amplifies a stereo signal to 4 channels. The amplifiers are driven by a Meanwell 24V 10A power supply, and are separated from each other by a diode in each power lane. Extra features are a oversized cooling made from recycled computer CPU coolers and a handy slot in the amplifier enclosure to fit all your wires in (wife really appreciates this). There is also an extension cord functionality so you can drive all the connected devices (NAD 912 amplifier for full range drivers and MiniDSP). The power goes through an AC filter (coil and cap) salvaged from an old subwoofer module. Everything is under the one mains switch, so you can shut down power from everything else from this amplifier.
The enclosure is constructed from 21mm and 4mm BB plywood and lacquered several times. The feet are from IKEA
The enclosure is constructed from 21mm and 4mm BB plywood and lacquered several times. The feet are from IKEA
Attachments
Last edited:
I always use AC power line filters, Tempest EMI Filters - Radius Power
when I build Class D amps. I dont know why, but the amp sounds better.
when I build Class D amps. I dont know why, but the amp sounds better.
Mayuri, hate to jump on your design, but please pay more attention to mains safety;
Mains creepage too small, non fused inlet, hotmelt on mains receptacles, gaffa tape used as insulation, non insulated diode wires.
Also, not sure if your toggle takes HV, but they are designed to be grounded via metal case - maybe worth adding an additional earth connection.
Otherwise, love the mega heatsinks!
Mains creepage too small, non fused inlet, hotmelt on mains receptacles, gaffa tape used as insulation, non insulated diode wires.
Also, not sure if your toggle takes HV, but they are designed to be grounded via metal case - maybe worth adding an additional earth connection.
Otherwise, love the mega heatsinks!
I don't mind constructive criticism
The hotmelt is there only to secure the mains plug (extension cord). The wires or conductive parts other than ground don't contact the hotmelt. Also it is physically impossible to touch the mains wires when the enclosure is closed. The switch was a good point, I'll definitely add a ground wire there.
The creeping distance is a bit further than it looks in the pictures as the mains AC filter is higher up than the diodes. Nevertheless, it is pretty close. I was thinking of installing two 10000uF caps as a massive power reserve in there and reworking the wiring at the same time. Haven't had time to test the design other than 2 hour listening which revealed no problems
The hotmelt is there only to secure the mains plug (extension cord). The wires or conductive parts other than ground don't contact the hotmelt. Also it is physically impossible to touch the mains wires when the enclosure is closed. The switch was a good point, I'll definitely add a ground wire there.
The creeping distance is a bit further than it looks in the pictures as the mains AC filter is higher up than the diodes. Nevertheless, it is pretty close. I was thinking of installing two 10000uF caps as a massive power reserve in there and reworking the wiring at the same time. Haven't had time to test the design other than 2 hour listening which revealed no problems