If you're going to stick to the SI, changing out the reservoir capacitor (the electrolytic in between the inductors) to a higher value and better grade is well worth doing, and It's not a big deal to add a second, even larger cap on or very near the board. In my experience, this helps the bass as much or more than swapping input caps.
--Buckapound
--Buckapound
Stealth modded with one channel sound less than the other
I just modded my SI with Stealth mod. by Panomaniac with a new Panasonic pot, everything work fine except right channel sound less than left channel. I change another new pot and nothing change. I trie to switch input cable around and now the left channel sound less than the right channel. Did I do something wrong here? I think I want to mention is I broke C12 when I removed the broad from two black pole holding the broad, I read somewhere here and that capacitor value is 0.1 uF so I replaced it with some 0.1 uF ceramic capacitor and hope it should work find but I really don't know this may caused the problem. This is my first modding project so please bear with me and give me some recomendation for fixing channel problem,
Thank you so much
Danny
I just modded my SI with Stealth mod. by Panomaniac with a new Panasonic pot, everything work fine except right channel sound less than left channel. I change another new pot and nothing change. I trie to switch input cable around and now the left channel sound less than the right channel. Did I do something wrong here? I think I want to mention is I broke C12 when I removed the broad from two black pole holding the broad, I read somewhere here and that capacitor value is 0.1 uF so I replaced it with some 0.1 uF ceramic capacitor and hope it should work find but I really don't know this may caused the problem. This is my first modding project so please bear with me and give me some recomendation for fixing channel problem,
Thank you so much
Danny
Re: Stealth modded with one channel sound less than the other
Hi Danny,
If the volume levels on the speakers changed when switching the inputs then it's your source thats the problem.
If you can switch the input around and the volume stays the same on the speakers then it's a problem with the amp......
Hope that makes sense
dannyt said:
Hi Danny,
If the volume levels on the speakers changed when switching the inputs then it's your source thats the problem.
If you can switch the input around and the volume stays the same on the speakers then it's a problem with the amp......
Hope that makes sense
Oh, ok. Those "remove" arrows just scared me a littleLostcause said:
Thanks, I thought it got a bit messy there, but I got the job done. This is a bit over my soldering skills really. But its fun Anyway, I used a couple of 2200uF 25V electrolytic caps for the stealth mod. The music cracks and pops a great deal just after i turn the amp on, but after 15 seconds or so it sounds good. Is this normal? Could it be bad caps or something?
I used kind of weak unshielded internal cables, is this a problem somehow?
I've tried to get a grip around this C10 business.. What do I gain from replacing it? And could I use another 2200uF 25V for that? I also have 1000uF's of the same kind..
I'll post some more pics from my modding..
Attachments
Ree said:
Oh, ok. Those "remove" arrows just scared me a little
Anyway, I used a couple of 2200uF 25V electrolytic caps for the stealth mod. The music cracks and pops a great deal just after i turn the amp on, but after 15 seconds or so it sounds good. Is this normal? Could it be bad caps or something?
I used kind of weak unshielded internal cables, is this a problem somehow?
I've tried to get a grip around this C10 business.. What do I gain from replacing it? And could I use another 2200uF 25V for that? I also have 1000uF's of the same kind..
I'll post some more pics from my modding..
Wooooooah!!! Dude! NO!
Don't use those caps for the stealth mod on the input mate
No wonder it pops and cracks
You only need 1 uf to 2.2 uf for the inputs
The 2200uf are for C10 replacement
And yes... the replacement of C10 is probably the best mod you can do to improve higher volume base response.
You need to recap more of this thread before you go any further.
Good luck
Lee
Haha, thanks for your reply Lostcause (who's the lost cause now )
Yeah I actually realised my mistake shortly after my last post. I confused 2,2uF with 2200uF thinking people was talking about the same thing. I've gone through this thread a lot lately. Perhaps too many times, as I've seem to become blind to the numbers..
Luckily nothing seems to have been damaged! Wierd thing that it worked fine after a short while though..
I'm gonna try and sort this out tomorrow..
)Yeah I actually realised my mistake shortly after my last post. I confused 2,2uF with 2200uF thinking people was talking about the same thing. I've gone through this thread a lot lately. Perhaps too many times, as I've seem to become blind to the numbers..
Luckily nothing seems to have been damaged!
Wierd thing that it worked fine after a short while though.. I'm gonna try and sort this out tomorrow..
Ree said:Ok, I got it all sorted out with 250V 2,2uF films and a new 16V 1000uF (sanyo) for C10. Sounds much better now
But i've got this humm now, probably from my weak unshielded cables.. I'm not sure what wires to use. Suggestions?
Hi!
I just finished my first SI mod and i used FKAR PG 2x0,5 from the RCA jacks to the pot and shielded it to the alu enclosure. But i guess any shielded cable will do.
I have a question about the C10 cap. In my mod i soldered a 4700uF 48V parallell to the existing one. What will i gain if i removed the original C10 and just use the 4700uF?
Thanks,
Anders
cseknc said:
congrats on your first mod, and welcome to the wonderful world of "audio improvement obsession"
I don't remember off hand what the value of c 10 is, but the gain would be whatever the difference between the 2 is. A lot of us have just run them both as you have it now. I think I did replace mine with a rubycon 16v 680 uf cap and added a large off-board Mallory cap as a stiffener.
soundphreak said:
Thank you! This is my first audio mod ever, and i love the results so far!
I have had great help with everything written about modding the SI t-amp here at diyaudio! Thanks!So i'll probably be better of adding a second stiffener instead of poking around with the original?
Or is the stock C10 cap of such bad quality that it's a good thing to replace it?
/Anders
cseknc said:
Thank you! This is my first audio mod ever, and i love the results so far!
So i'll probably be better of adding a second stiffener instead of poking around with the original?
Or is the stock C10 cap of such bad quality that it's a good thing to replace it?
/Anders
there are much more knowledgeable people here than myself when it comes to the details of audio electronics, but my understanding is that the last cap the current passes through should be the highest quality you are using, low esr/high ripple, to provide the most consistant power.
The ulimate mod list?
Is there a place where all the mods besides classic & stealth mods are in just one list/spot (like 1 page instead of all over the place) with a link to pics (yea I'm asking a lot) I have been going over this thread of 60 + pages & the links to the other threads & pages.
Just when I think I have it all nailed down, I find some other mod that someone is trying.
I have the newer board (blue LED) & no resistor between the LED leads.
Currently I'm, running a 10A SMPS dialed in at 13.5V, Stealth mod still w/ stock Vol control (I'm replacing w/ 47K resistors). I rewired with better wire too.
Sounds great. I'm currently running a loop from my laptop into the input playing the amp at a low volume to burn it in. I have heard 24 hrs up to 100 hrs are needed.
Thinking about getting a 2nd one to run a 8" DVC sub i have hanging around. I have a Rockford Fosgate active crossover that I might use for this system.
Is there a place where all the mods besides classic & stealth mods are in just one list/spot (like 1 page instead of all over the place) with a link to pics (yea I'm asking a lot) I have been going over this thread of 60 + pages & the links to the other threads & pages.
Just when I think I have it all nailed down, I find some other mod that someone is trying.
I have the newer board (blue LED) & no resistor between the LED leads.
Currently I'm, running a 10A SMPS dialed in at 13.5V, Stealth mod still w/ stock Vol control (I'm replacing w/ 47K resistors). I rewired with better wire too.
Sounds great. I'm currently running a loop from my laptop into the input playing the amp at a low volume to burn it in. I have heard 24 hrs up to 100 hrs are needed.
Thinking about getting a 2nd one to run a 8" DVC sub i have hanging around. I have a Rockford Fosgate active crossover that I might use for this system.
can anyone enlightment me on how exactly could i drop in a transformer salvaged from a computer PSU (i heard it could be done) into my t-amp for pwr supply?mofy said:
Thanks for everyone in here. It really helps me more.
hi, KT,
I like cute and small size style. But my first mod version has used black box too.
That one won¡¦t satisfy me. So, I finished second version
Mofy
Goranarog,
If the Jantzens are film caps in the 2.0 to 5.0uf range, then yes, they'll be fine. FYI check around on the forums; people have done extensive cap tests for this kind of application.
calvin14,
Computer supplies are not ideal, and I believe they usually put out a great deal more power on the 5V output than on the 12v. In addition they are bulky and noisy, from cooling fans. According to what others have said around here, they don't like to run with no load, either, meaning you may have to add a dummy resistor on the 5v outputs so it sees a load and operates correctly.
12v switching power supplies of the type used for LCD monitors are more compact, sound good and are easily available on eBay. Some of them have a trim potentiometer on the board inside that allows you to crank up the voltage to about 13.2, which seems to get you a tad more ommph. 3 to 4 amps should be plenty of power.
--Buckapound
If the Jantzens are film caps in the 2.0 to 5.0uf range, then yes, they'll be fine. FYI check around on the forums; people have done extensive cap tests for this kind of application.
calvin14,
Computer supplies are not ideal, and I believe they usually put out a great deal more power on the 5V output than on the 12v. In addition they are bulky and noisy, from cooling fans. According to what others have said around here, they don't like to run with no load, either, meaning you may have to add a dummy resistor on the 5v outputs so it sees a load and operates correctly.
12v switching power supplies of the type used for LCD monitors are more compact, sound good and are easily available on eBay. Some of them have a trim potentiometer on the board inside that allows you to crank up the voltage to about 13.2, which seems to get you a tad more ommph. 3 to 4 amps should be plenty of power.
--Buckapound
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.