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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

Sonic Impact 5066 Parts List & Modifications
Sonic Impact 5066 Parts List & Modifications
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Old 29th March 2008, 04:10 AM   #611
Ree is offline Ree  Sweden
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Haha, thanks for your reply Lostcause (who's the lost cause now )
Yeah I actually realised my mistake shortly after my last post. I confused 2,2uF with 2200uF thinking people was talking about the same thing. I've gone through this thread a lot lately. Perhaps too many times, as I've seem to become blind to the numbers..
Luckily nothing seems to have been damaged! Wierd thing that it worked fine after a short while though..

I'm gonna try and sort this out tomorrow..
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Old 31st March 2008, 03:06 PM   #612
Ree is offline Ree  Sweden
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Ok, I got it all sorted out with 250V 2,2uF films and a new 16V 1000uF (sanyo) for C10. Sounds much better now
But i've got this humm now, probably from my weak unshielded cables.. I'm not sure what wires to use. Suggestions?
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Old 9th April 2008, 10:41 AM   #613
cseknc is offline cseknc  Sweden
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Quote:
Originally posted by Ree
Ok, I got it all sorted out with 250V 2,2uF films and a new 16V 1000uF (sanyo) for C10. Sounds much better now
But i've got this humm now, probably from my weak unshielded cables.. I'm not sure what wires to use. Suggestions?
Hi!

I just finished my first SI mod and i used FKAR PG 2x0,5 from the RCA jacks to the pot and shielded it to the alu enclosure. But i guess any shielded cable will do.

I have a question about the C10 cap. In my mod i soldered a 4700uF 48V parallell to the existing one. What will i gain if i removed the original C10 and just use the 4700uF?

Thanks,
Anders
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Old 9th April 2008, 03:43 PM   #614
soundphreak is offline soundphreak  United States
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Quote:
Originally posted by cseknc


Hi!

I just finished my first SI mod and i used FKAR PG 2x0,5 from the RCA jacks to the pot and shielded it to the alu enclosure. But i guess any shielded cable will do.

I have a question about the C10 cap. In my mod i soldered a 4700uF 48V parallell to the existing one. What will i gain if i removed the original C10 and just use the 4700uF?

Thanks,
Anders
congrats on your first mod, and welcome to the wonderful world of "audio improvement obsession"

I don't remember off hand what the value of c 10 is, but the gain would be whatever the difference between the 2 is. A lot of us have just run them both as you have it now. I think I did replace mine with a rubycon 16v 680 uf cap and added a large off-board Mallory cap as a stiffener.
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Old 10th April 2008, 01:35 AM   #615
cseknc is offline cseknc  Sweden
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Quote:
Originally posted by soundphreak


congrats on your first mod, and welcome to the wonderful world of "audio improvement obsession"

I don't remember off hand what the value of c 10 is, but the gain would be whatever the difference between the 2 is. A lot of us have just run them both as you have it now. I think I did replace mine with a rubycon 16v 680 uf cap and added a large off-board Mallory cap as a stiffener.
Thank you! This is my first audio mod ever, and i love the results so far! I have had great help with everything written about modding the SI t-amp here at diyaudio! Thanks!

So i'll probably be better of adding a second stiffener instead of poking around with the original?
Or is the stock C10 cap of such bad quality that it's a good thing to replace it?

/Anders
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Old 10th April 2008, 04:45 PM   #616
soundphreak is offline soundphreak  United States
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Quote:
Originally posted by cseknc


Thank you! This is my first audio mod ever, and i love the results so far! I have had great help with everything written about modding the SI t-amp here at diyaudio! Thanks!

So i'll probably be better of adding a second stiffener instead of poking around with the original?
Or is the stock C10 cap of such bad quality that it's a good thing to replace it?

/Anders
there are much more knowledgeable people here than myself when it comes to the details of audio electronics, but my understanding is that the last cap the current passes through should be the highest quality you are using, low esr/high ripple, to provide the most consistant power.
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Old 18th April 2009, 05:44 AM   #617
GR8FLPT is offline GR8FLPT  United States
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Default The ulimate mod list?

Is there a place where all the mods besides classic & stealth mods are in just one list/spot (like 1 page instead of all over the place) with a link to pics (yea I'm asking a lot) I have been going over this thread of 60 + pages & the links to the other threads & pages.
Just when I think I have it all nailed down, I find some other mod that someone is trying.

I have the newer board (blue LED) & no resistor between the LED leads.

Currently I'm, running a 10A SMPS dialed in at 13.5V, Stealth mod still w/ stock Vol control (I'm replacing w/ 47K resistors). I rewired with better wire too.

Sounds great. I'm currently running a loop from my laptop into the input playing the amp at a low volume to burn it in. I have heard 24 hrs up to 100 hrs are needed.

Thinking about getting a 2nd one to run a 8" DVC sub i have hanging around. I have a Rockford Fosgate active crossover that I might use for this system.
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If it ain't broke, then fix it...
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Old 19th April 2009, 01:40 PM   #618
calvin14 is offline calvin14  Singapore
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Quote:
Originally posted by mofy



Thanks for everyone in here. It really helps me more.


hi, KT,

I like cute and small size style. But my first mod version has used black box too.
That one wonˇ¦t satisfy me. So, I finished second version

Mofy
can anyone enlightment me on how exactly could i drop in a transformer salvaged from a computer PSU (i heard it could be done) into my t-amp for pwr supply?
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Old 19th April 2009, 11:38 PM   #619
goranarog is offline goranarog  Sweden
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Default Input caps

Having my first T-amp up for modding and have bought some new caps for input and C10. Couldn't get hold of Auricaps so I have found some Jantzen Caps which are bipolar Caps. My questions is can I use them as input caps?
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Old 20th April 2009, 02:11 AM   #620
Buckapound is offline Buckapound  United States
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Goranarog,

If the Jantzens are film caps in the 2.0 to 5.0uf range, then yes, they'll be fine. FYI check around on the forums; people have done extensive cap tests for this kind of application.

calvin14,

Computer supplies are not ideal, and I believe they usually put out a great deal more power on the 5V output than on the 12v. In addition they are bulky and noisy, from cooling fans. According to what others have said around here, they don't like to run with no load, either, meaning you may have to add a dummy resistor on the 5v outputs so it sees a load and operates correctly.

12v switching power supplies of the type used for LCD monitors are more compact, sound good and are easily available on eBay. Some of them have a trim potentiometer on the board inside that allows you to crank up the voltage to about 13.2, which seems to get you a tad more ommph. 3 to 4 amps should be plenty of power.

--Buckapound
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