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#11 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston
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The film caps strapped across the speaker terminals in my SI are 0.15 ufd, not the 0.01 listed in the Tripath info. I think they made changes in the front, the circuit looks a lot simpler than the Tripath evaluation board.
The C3/C4 are the input caps. Polarity can be verified, the side that connects to the 20K resistor is the high voltage side. I wonder is a high quality, 2.2 ufd is available. The ones listed in the Trpath data sheet are 2.2 ufd 10v ceramic X5R. The part number at DigiKey is PCC1868CT. These are multi layer type. They list them in larger values, but all look to be larger than the coupling caps used by SI. The one used by Tripath is larger than the SI. Guess I need to make probes to fit my capacitance meter and check the value of the caps used by SI. I would be great to be able to extend the low end just by installing another cap here. George |
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#12 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
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George,
Thanks for that piece of info! I totally missed that they spec'd it out on the datasheet. I think someone (Thorsten?) had posted in another thread that multilayer caps are terrible in signal chain due to smearing. I obviously have no idea on this, but it's food for thought. I also agree that C3/4 look much too small to be 2.2uF. If you have a capacitence meter and can measure it, I'd be much obliged. I'm hoping someone else can take a look at their boards and verify that my parts list above is correct. I'm guessing that if someone who has more experience at this type of stuff than I do can confirm it, it'll open modding these little guys up to even more people. The one thing I still can find are the Schottky diodes mentioned on the datasheet. All the parts appear to be capacitors, resistors or coils, with no diodes in sight. Does anyone have any insight on this? Thanks for your help! |
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#13 |
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dublin
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Another area that impacts sound significantly is the inductors. What is the make/quality of these on the SI? Keep up the good work. I have two SI's on order and hope to see them in the next couple of weeks (by which time this thread will have become an opus)
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#14 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston
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When I return home later this week I will try to measure C3/C4. George |
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#15 | ||
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
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Which ones? There should be 4 diodes on board, and I can't find anything close to the chip that would indicate they're on here. The only black chips on my board are for the resistors (R01, R1, R2 and R4 on top, R1, R3, R5 R8 and R9 on bottom). There's also what I assume to be two inductors on the board, labelled L1 (top) and L2 (bottom). Everything else is labelled with a "C" for surface mount parts, so I've assumed those to be capacitors. The remaining parts are the LED, the 330uF electrolytic cap, and the 4 inductors. Thanks, Mike |
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#16 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
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Here's a quick list of possible inductor replacements for L1-L4. I'm not sure if someone out there knows more about what type of inductor would offer improved performance over the existing ones, but I thought I'd take a shot and post the candidates that I've found so far:
JW Miller Magnetics: -------------------------- Part# 6000-100k, 10uH @ 3.4 Amps, DCR of 0.045, SRF of 14Mhz ($1.51 each) http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...803&Row=323313 Toko America: ------------------ Part# 824MY-100K, 10uH @ 2.2 Amps, DCR of 0.052, SRF of 44Mhz ($5.57 each) http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...455776&Site=US |
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#17 |
diyAudio Moderator
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Hi Guys,
Mike, you and George seem to be becoming real experts on these chips. So of course I wanted to throw in my 2cents worth ![]() The caps called C2 /C4 are indeed the DC blockng input caps, i found them while poking around the board today. They are also the reason for the bass roll off. There is no low end loss in the signal path until it gets to the DC side of these caps. Then the attenuation is the same as I measured and graphed (see my site). I don't know what the 2 SMDs labled L1 & L2 do, but they are certainly in the signal path. No DC on either side, as far as I can tell. Can't tell if they are in series or paralelle with the signal path but they get the same signal as c2/C4. Why would there be an LC filter at the input? The ouput inductors sing. ![]() Questions: How are you ordering the Panasonic caps? I tried to follow the links posted but they had expired. I can find an in stock at Digikey, and minimums are 250~500. Mike, Did you get your Solen input caps in place yet? They should make a huge difference, if only in the bass. Have you also replaced the ouput filter? I hope to make an seperate I/O board with better parts for the input and output filters. Also plan to bring the -3dB point of he output filter down an octave to about 35 kHz. That's all for now. Aloha MM My site: http://www.michael.mardis.com/sonic/
__________________
Take the Speaker Voltage Test! |
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#18 | ||||||
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
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Here's the part numbers for a few of them: Panasonic FM, 16v/680uF: P12377-ND Panasonic FM, 16v/1000uF: P12366-ND Panasonic FM, 16v/1200uF: P12367-ND Panasonic FM, 16v/1500uF: P12368-ND The 680uF should be a direct replacement for the existing electrolytic. It's the same size as the 680uF panasonic FC I'm using right now. The FM series is supposedly far superior to the FC series. Also, these are all available in quantities of 1, and the price ranges from $0.50 each to $0.76 each. Quote:
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As far as the output goes, I originally thought C21-24 were the output caps, but these are in fact the Schottky diodes mentioned on the datasheet. I whipped out the multimeter and confirmed it with it's diode testing function tonight. R8b and C17 form the Right Channel Zobel, while R9b and C18 form the Left Channel Zobel. I think that the remaining caps on the bottom (C13, C14, C15, C16) and the two remaining ones on the top (C19 and C20) form the output network. I haven't had time to check the traces to figure out what's what. If you can measure these, we can probably just match them up to the datasheet. Thanks for your input. I think we'll be getting pretty close to getting this board completely deciphered, which will make modding it even easier. |
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#19 | ||||||
diyAudio Moderator
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__________________
Take the Speaker Voltage Test! |
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#20 |
diyAudio Moderator
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Here is the input schenatic for the Sonic. A bit different from the Tripath app notes.
This should help in bypassing any or all of it.
__________________
Take the Speaker Voltage Test! |
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