These are obviously the problem and the questions of a complete neophyte. Please be gentle......
A while ago now, I bought an Icepower 50ASX2 module and the appropriate Ghent Audio case kit. They arrived, and I put everything together - it all seemed pretty self explanatory. I've wired up bare class d amplifier boards before - it always seemed to involve nothing beyond recognizing which wires go where, and supplying the appropriate amount of power.
Result this time: nothing. No sound, either music or crackling. No lights, no smoke, no smells. Nothing even got warm
I checked all the obvious things - wiggled the connectors, checked cables and soldering with a basic circuit tester, bypassed the volume control, tried three (3!) different AC cords...... I then wired the module directly: same result.
Having seemingly eliminated the (always unlikely) possibility that the case was the problem (circuit tester, bypassing power switch, etc....), I sent the icepower module back for a refund and bought another one, from a different ebay seller (both sellers had >99% positive feedback). Put it together with the case kit and...same result. Nothing. Checked everything - cables, connectors etc - and all seemed fine.
Among all the unknown unknowns, there was one puzzle that at least manifested itself as more than a lack of anything: Once everything was put together, the two poles of all the connectors, inputs and outputs, showed enough bleeding (right word? - I'm clueless!) of current to make the circuit tester twitch. This was through the module itself, as pulling the connectors from the module reduced the twitch to something almost imperceptible. This might be normal and expected; it might indicate something like an issue.....
As the last paragraph should indicate clearly, I have no idea what's going on, or of what's what. Did I simply get two duds in a row? I'd have expected at least some noise or smoke - its 120 volts!........
Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
A while ago now, I bought an Icepower 50ASX2 module and the appropriate Ghent Audio case kit. They arrived, and I put everything together - it all seemed pretty self explanatory. I've wired up bare class d amplifier boards before - it always seemed to involve nothing beyond recognizing which wires go where, and supplying the appropriate amount of power.
Result this time: nothing. No sound, either music or crackling. No lights, no smoke, no smells. Nothing even got warm
I checked all the obvious things - wiggled the connectors, checked cables and soldering with a basic circuit tester, bypassed the volume control, tried three (3!) different AC cords...... I then wired the module directly: same result.
Having seemingly eliminated the (always unlikely) possibility that the case was the problem (circuit tester, bypassing power switch, etc....), I sent the icepower module back for a refund and bought another one, from a different ebay seller (both sellers had >99% positive feedback). Put it together with the case kit and...same result. Nothing. Checked everything - cables, connectors etc - and all seemed fine.
Among all the unknown unknowns, there was one puzzle that at least manifested itself as more than a lack of anything: Once everything was put together, the two poles of all the connectors, inputs and outputs, showed enough bleeding (right word? - I'm clueless!) of current to make the circuit tester twitch. This was through the module itself, as pulling the connectors from the module reduced the twitch to something almost imperceptible. This might be normal and expected; it might indicate something like an issue.....
As the last paragraph should indicate clearly, I have no idea what's going on, or of what's what. Did I simply get two duds in a row? I'd have expected at least some noise or smoke - its 120 volts!........
Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
If it helps you, here is a picture of an ICEpower 50ASX2SE I salvaged and built in a casing. I don't like hot semis so I glued some leftover heatsinks with thermal glue to the hottest parts. As it was previously mounted upside down the results of heat buildup can be seen when looking at the upper right filter cap. I don't use it but the tests showed (unexpectedly) very good sonical results.
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Here's a photo. Guess I'm more of an aspiring, would-be neophyte hopeful.
This detail about pulling and reinserting a clip is completely new to me! It would certainly explain the lack of crackling, of unwelcome hums, or of any hint of warmth anywhere in the module - never mind burning smells. I'm keen to give it a try!!!
(An entire domino-effect re-design of our entire home, involving far more than stereo equipment, in three different rooms, depends on this amplifier finally working. I won't go into the details, as they're complex and probably outside the remit of this forum)
Now, if I can just figure out how to attach that photo.....
This detail about pulling and reinserting a clip is completely new to me! It would certainly explain the lack of crackling, of unwelcome hums, or of any hint of warmth anywhere in the module - never mind burning smells. I'm keen to give it a try!!!
(An entire domino-effect re-design of our entire home, involving far more than stereo equipment, in three different rooms, depends on this amplifier finally working. I won't go into the details, as they're complex and probably outside the remit of this forum)
Now, if I can just figure out how to attach that photo.....
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I found the jumper! All will now be well. I have to wait till a civilised hour to connect the amp, but I'm quietly confident.
I'm on top of the world, full of love for the universe, and with a powerful urge to go on ebay and apologise to the first ebay seller, whose unit I sent back!! At least I didn't leave any negative feedback.
I'm on top of the world, full of love for the universe, and with a powerful urge to go on ebay and apologise to the first ebay seller, whose unit I sent back!! At least I didn't leave any negative feedback.
Looks to me like you have the rca wires swapped in P102 and you are grounding the signal wires:
https://icepower.dk/download/1633/
Pin 4: Channel 2 signal -> RCA tip
Pin 5: GND -> RCA shield
Pin 6: GND -> RCA shield
Pin 7: Channel 1 signal -> RCA tip
Nate
https://icepower.dk/download/1633/
Pin 4: Channel 2 signal -> RCA tip
Pin 5: GND -> RCA shield
Pin 6: GND -> RCA shield
Pin 7: Channel 1 signal -> RCA tip
Nate
Sharp eyes! Also way too long input wires. Please don't make them too short either, 30 mm lack is OK and you can turn them in a loop if you wish. Route the input wires away from the mains side of things AND the speaker wires! I suggest keeping the input wiring to the bottom of the casing and a bit to the edge.
The speaker wires should be resoldered to the connectors (and they're both different cables BTW). You will have to remove the connectors as when your are soldering them mounted in the casing the plastic parts will melt. The speaker wires can be loosely tied together with a tie wrap. Make sure you move nut and isolation ring over the cables first
It won't hurt to check/measure if the PE wire really makes contact via the ring to chassis. There should be a "toothed" washer between ring and casing.
If redesign of a home depends on an amplifier I have done something wrong till now Ha yes, you do realize this is an amplifier without volume control i.e. a power amplifier? Connecting a source directly will make a lasting impression and 2 speakers with damage.
The speaker wires should be resoldered to the connectors (and they're both different cables BTW). You will have to remove the connectors as when your are soldering them mounted in the casing the plastic parts will melt. The speaker wires can be loosely tied together with a tie wrap. Make sure you move nut and isolation ring over the cables first
It won't hurt to check/measure if the PE wire really makes contact via the ring to chassis. There should be a "toothed" washer between ring and casing.
If redesign of a home depends on an amplifier I have done something wrong till now
Ha yes, you do realize this is an amplifier without volume control i.e. a power amplifier? Connecting a source directly will make a lasting impression and 2 speakers with damage.
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@miv71: I noticed you have the bottom of the case rotated 180 degrees from what was the design intent. Ghent has made things simple for DIYers by masking the anodizing for key ground points at the AC ground connection and at the PC board connection (near P104) to assure proper grounding. Make sure you scrape away the anodizing at your AC ground connection for safety. Also make sure you use a brass spacer at the PC board mounting screw near P104 and scape the anodizing to assure a proper ground. (The three other spacers can be nylon since these mounting holes do not provide a ground connection.) Alternately, you can simply rotate the board 180 degrees. This will also provide a mounting point for attaching the provided 20mm nylon spacer from the bottom of the case to the switch assembly for added mechanical integrity.
Best of luck getting your amp running. I'm sure you will enjoy it!
Best of luck getting your amp running. I'm sure you will enjoy it!
Fixed! It was the jumper, which I'd not even known existed as a thing until Tuberoller suggested I check it.
Thanks to everyone for their advice; I promise I will tidy up the wires when I can access more solder in Ontario's new lockdown.
For now, I'm just going to work my way through my library of favourite albums, and see if this amp actually serves my Miller & Kreisel speakers any better than the FX-Pro amp I've been using to date.
Thanks again!
Thanks to everyone for their advice; I promise I will tidy up the wires when I can access more solder in Ontario's new lockdown.
For now, I'm just going to work my way through my library of favourite albums, and see if this amp actually serves my Miller & Kreisel speakers any better than the FX-Pro amp I've been using to date.
Thanks again!
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