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#71 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
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Amp is building.
Lester, the TPA board should not connected to the chassis via the screw, isn't it ? |
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#72 | |
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Loose sockets will get you in trouble all the time... ![]() Thanks, Pete
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Consistency is the last refuge of the unimaginative - Oscar Wilde |
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#73 | |
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
You can connect the heatsink screw to the chassis. The whole amp module is floating, there's no connection from ground to standoffs.
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Visit my official online shop at www.jlelectronicsph.com |
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#74 | |
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
![]() Thanks Lester.
__________________
Consistency is the last refuge of the unimaginative - Oscar Wilde |
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#75 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
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You will soon have nothing to try
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#76 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
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#77 | |
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
BradP... I will be waiting for that.. I've used enough chip-quik & de-soldering wick on Ver 1 ![]() Pete
__________________
Consistency is the last refuge of the unimaginative - Oscar Wilde |
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#78 |
diyAudio Member
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Hi BradP, you need to change the PFFB network values if you will use it for 38V.
The PFFB for 51V will still work but the sound will be inferior compared to PFFB values for 36V. Nice aluminum chassis! Regards, Lester
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Visit my official online shop at www.jlelectronicsph.com |
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#79 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
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My SMPS outputs 48v
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#80 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Lyon (France)
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Seems great )
I see you are using H2000 case. You should twist all your cables. Nice anyway ) |
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